Popping breaker on the dock

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Brian Wurtz

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Fluid Motion Model
C-248 C
Good morning. I just moved my 2008 R-25 to a new marina. When I plugged the boat in, it popped the 30 amp breaker on the dock. Then i was sure that all switches were turned off and did it again. When I plugged the boat in again, I did get the green light at the master switch - - but when I turned on the master switch - - it popped the breaker on the dock. I tried this several times. Is there any reason this might happen? Is their another place on the boat that I should check? The marina technician says it's a boat problem - - not a dock problem - - but it seems very coincidental to me that it is happening at my new location - -and never happened before at my previous marina.

Any help you can throw my way is appreciated.
 
Hi

I had the same problem and find out it was the dock GFI causing this problem.
I went thru and check all the expose areas were moisture could cause this problem
and let dry for a couple days the problem went away until I wash the cockpit out with water
the same problem came back. I really try to keep water out now.

Dennis
Tug of my Heart 11
 
Try This if the problem continues.
After making sure everything on the outside is clean and dry
1. Turn off all your 120v breakers breakers on the boat and the disconnect breaker.
2. Plug the shore power cable in and then power up the dock power.
3. Turn on the Panel main breaker and assure proper polarity.
4. If you still have power turn your 120V breakers on one at at a time. This should indicate which circuit may have a problem.
Good Luck and happy trouble shooting 😀
 
Brian,

Did you try plugging it into another pedestal to see if that one tripped? Does everything work with the generator providing power?
 
Brian: I have a 6-year old R25 and this is a problem at our Yacht Club. We have 30 amp service with a (I believe) .05 Milliamp GFI. Somehow the GFI reads something on the boat (possibly the reverse polarity) and decides it's a fault and trips the breaker. I do not have this problem at any other marina I have been to. There have been Rangers coming into our Club for reciprocal moorage and they have the same problem.

My solution is to bypass the boat electrical system. I have a male/female plug on my battery charger (I think the charger was originally joined by splicing the wires, although I could be wrong. I disconnect the battery charger, plug a 6' extension cord into the charger, feed that cord up behind the cockpit locker liner and let the male end hang down into the cockpit a few inches. I plug that into an extension cord connected to shore power. This keeps my batteries on charge all the time. I usually leave "house" system on, leave some beer in the fridge and leave that on as well. It both exercises the house batteries and I always have a cold beer at hand . When I go to another marina I disconnect the 6' cord at the charger end, plug back in the boat line and use the boat system. The reason for the 6' cord is to prevent chafing on the extension cord -- you have to get it into the locker with the charger. After a year or so of this I am convinced that this also reduces the rate of erosion of my zincs.

Dave
"Lobo"
 
As the one who wrote the recommendation that ultimately put those GFCIs (it Interrupts the Circuit, the Ground Fault still exists) in your bathrooms, kitchens, and on your patios, I can tell you that if you are tripping one, you need to find out why! To ignore it is like putting a bandaid on a melanoma. The GFCI detects a leakage in the system by monitoring the differential current in the legs of the circuit, and trips at levels (current and time) below what would normally be fatal to a human who happened to get between that leakage and ground.

I can't speak as an expert on this since I have no experience with it, but I do not believe reverse polarity will trip one. It appears to me that the same differential will exist and I do not believe it carries a sign since by definition the sign on a sine wave is changing 60 times a second anyway. However, a GFCI tester may not work on a circuit with reverse polarity due to the way they simulate the ground fault. This could lead one to replace a GFCI which is actually working properly. The only fool proof test is the test button on the device itself.

Believe it or not, one compelling reason for the invention of the device was unexplained deaths during ECGs in doctors offices. Those leads are right across one's chest, and a leakage can (and did occasionally) cause the heart to stop (dead!). It doesn't take much. Someone asked the right questions of the right people.

I would suggest that if your boat is tripping a GFCI at a given marina, there are two possibilities. That marina's are overly sensitive (not likely) or the other marina's are not sensitive enough. Given the choice, I prefer one that is more likely to keep me from electrocution rather than one less likely to do so. You need to find out which is the case before someone becomes a path to ground.

If just disconnecting one's boat from power saves its zincs, the problem is on that boat and should be found and repaired. But that is probably an entirely different problem.
 
For the hell of it check the polarity at the pedestal, perhaps the outlet is hooked up wrong. My GFI WAS TRIPPING in the garage and it turned out to be hooked up in reverse.
 
Even worse, if by backward you mean the "Line" and "Load" were reversed, it also does not properly protect the user from a ground fault. It might trip, but but the outlets in the GFCI itself remain hot. That's why most have stickers all over them warning about connecting the "Line" to the proper terminals, and if added receptacles are to be protected by a single GFCI, the "Load" side must be used to connect them.
 
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