Prop/rudder antifouling

J

Jlow49

Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2021
Messages
23
Fluid Motion Model
C-302 SC
Hi All—
I know this topic gets kicked around a lot, but I’d appreciate an update. We live in New England and keep the R-31 in the water May-Oct. Truly a marine biologist’s dream environment. Does ablative antifouling on the prop and rudder make any sense, or are we better off simply cleaning them off to clean bronze and occasionally diving down to scrape off barnacles/critters, painting them with something like “barnacle buster” or something else? I’m convinced that multiple layers of paint are in fact slowing me down. Thanks.
PS: No issue with painting the hull with a good ablative paint.
 
Do you have a diver service now? I can’t say about the Northeast but here in the Northwest the usual thing is to schedule a diver every 3-4 months to clean those (more often in warmer areas like Florida). No paint on them. If you’re in the water 6 months a year, a diver once in the middle seems like it would make sense and they would advise about frequency.
 
Good to know and thanks for the quick response. I’m actually a certified diver, and my guess is I could do the prop/rudder with just a wetsuit and a snorkel.
 
We also keep the boat in the salt for 6 mos. or so each year. I have tried many of the solutions described and this is what I have settled on:

Nothing but wax on the tabs and pistons. The surfaces are not difficult to clean and with a little wax on the tabs and pistons it comes off fairly easily first with a pressure wash and then a stainless scrubbing pad or scraper. I can do a rough clean a couple times each season with a snorkel without the snorkel tip under water.

The rudder, keel skid plate, and raw water pickup all seem more difficult to clean so I spray them with cold galvanizing paint (or barnacle barrier which I think is the same thing) each year. The curved surfaces on the rudder are problematic and the raw water pickup and keel skid plate require breath holding in season so they get the paint.

The prop never builds up as long as we use the boat more than once within a three week period during the season. I give it a good scrub in the off season. Never seen a barnacle on the prop even once.

Curt
 
R21Ec lives next door in Marblehead. Petit Prop Guard Aerosol has worked well for us.

Larry
 
Not to redirect this thread....but is stray voltage a concern for divers in your marinas?
 
I have a R31 also. For sure you can clean the rudder, prop, tabs and thruster with just a snorkel. Here in the PNW, I jump in with 7 mm wetsuits (farmer john + long sleeve jacket. Water temp ranges from 48-52 degrees. Takes about 20 minutes and you can change all of the zincs at the same except the bow thruster, it is just a few inches too low for the snorkel, but those are aluminum and last longer than the zincs that are in the bonding system (about a year).

I use Scuba gear once a year to get to the bow thruster, scrape the keel plate and check the water intake. BTW, the 3M Gray Scotchbrite pads are awesome in addition to scrapers. Would also recommend using a cut resistant glove as the barnacles tear up normal neoprene dive gloves.

Beyond saving money on haulouts or divers, I like seeing first hand how things look and know the quality o my work.
 
The water in your area makes a difference on what will work. I have always used cold galvanized paint of which I bought a quart. Some of the aerosols sold are the same product, but the brush on avoids excessive masking and a quart lasts for quite a few seasons.
 
We are in North East Florida.
Have not found any paint that helps.
Have an ultrasonic vibrator, also no real help. Previous owned spent nearly $2000. I would not buy.
Only way is monthly diver, we even adjust to just before cruising.
All our boating friends use a diver.
Florida is much warmer - up to 80 degrees in late summer, so stuff grows fast.
Bill
 
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