Prop Shaft Packing

[rpmerrill]

You can tell it is the end of the season and I'm looking at all the jobs that might need attention. Or jobs I'd just like to do. (Sometimes, I can't help myself.)

My prop shaft seal seems to be functioning ok. It drips between 5 and 10 times a minute depending upon whether we're running or not. From what I've read, that should be ok. Maybe a little fast? When I first launched last spring it dripped pretty quickly, but after a day or so it had slowed down a lot. (This was the first launch of this boat for me. It was in the water when I bought it the year before.)

I think it might be a good project for this winter. However, my packing nut and lock nut and rear fitting, all appear to be one giant blob of green brass. I'm thinking this packing nut and lock nut are fused forever. I'm posting a photo.

Questions: Is this "patina" just on the surface or does it go deep? Are there any products that will help free them up? And when I do break them loose, any advice on adjustment, adding packing or replacing packing.

PS: "Leave it alone" is also an acceptable comment.

 

[quinsky]

I was told by a mechanic to take a metal alignment punch and a hammer and give each nut a good knock to free it up. Haven't tried it yet though. I think the green is just surface corrosion which is normal.

 

[LAKERtoo]

.. I had the packing gland on my 2005 21 Classic replaced when I bought the boat 3 summers ago and this summer had it adjusted by a long time marine mechanic for the first time since changing .. the punch and hammer method is what he used and it worked well .. I think a hardwood dowel should work as well .. the packing gland should not leak at all when the shaft is not rotating, and 3-4-5 drops a minute when rotating .. he also secured the boat well on the dock cleats and engaged the transmission to check the drip rate under load .. Rob

 

[BB marine]

I would lay a rag under the gland then clean it up with a wire brush. After you have removed all the green and the stuffing box is clean then spray some penetrating oil on it. I would mark the packing nut at 12 o'clock then get a wrench and work on loosening the jam nut and gland nut. Once you get it loose snug up slightly on the packing nut to get 3 drips a minute if your still in the water. If your on the hard now just get everything loosened up keep the packing nut at the 12 o'clock original adjustment so in the spring when you launch you can make your adjustment. It probably will not be much to achieve.
Brian Brown
Cutwater 26
PORT-A-GEE

 

[Brian B]

I've had good luck using PB Blaster. I would let that packing nut soak overnight with the PB Blaster applied. I had to use two pipe wrenches to free mine up. Here's a great article to follow if you have to service it. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box
I replaced my packing last Fall when the boat was out of the water. Sounds like you only need to tighten it a hair as BB Marine suggests. I purchased the new packing from Ranger Tugs.

 

[knotflying]

As with Brian B. A bit of PB blaster overnight. Maybe a few taps with a hammer and then two good wrenches. This baby works like a champ for me. https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/hex-wrenches For those difficult times a pipe extension works great. Nothing like a little leverage. Always be sure to apply opposite pressure on each nut when tightening or loosening. You don't want to tear the rubber tubing seal.

 

[sheral]

Just for my benefit, the first step (before thinking about changing anything out) is to tighten it a bit and see if you can get the drip rate reduced (if too high). Correct?

 

[knotflying]

Correct. When not is gear and at the dock or anchored you should have no drip. While in gear you should get about one drip every 20 seconds. Tightening is very minuscule. I would say do it in 5 degree increments, the most. It is best to do it while in gear. Have two people, tie the boat firmly to the dock. Having already released the lock nut, have the person at the helm put the transmission in gear and then time your drips. after the first drip, time it to the second drip. If it is less than 20 seconds tighten and then time. Once you reach the 20 second drip, shut it down and then lock it up.

I replaced my stuffing at about 1,500 hours since I was at the end of my threads. I cleaned the threads and applied some marine anti-seize. Let's see how that works out for the next tightening.

 

[rpmerrill]

Yup, that is what I've been thinking.
Tirst, test the ability to break the nuts free and see what adjustment is available before I haul the boat. If it works now, then I'll leave it alone this winter.

Currently soaking after a blast of PB.