Pulling and replacing prop

[FredJ]

Ashamed to admit that I hit a log in the Puget Sound going about 12knots. I seemed to roll right over it as I could track the impacts down the length of the keel.
Based on the resulting sustained vibration that changed with rpm, I'm pretty sure I bent the prop. Hopefully not the shaft, tabs or rudder.

A local reputable prop shop in Mukilteo provides loaner pullers and I know I have a 1.5 inch shaft.
I've watched a few videos but I could not find anything Cutwater or Ranger specific.

Can anybody offer further detail on the process? What size nut? Cotter Pin, Zinc? What holds the zinc on? Is that a hex nut?
Any specific "gotchas" on this project?
Seems pretty straight forward said the guy whose never done it.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Fred Juhos
Blue J-2 '21C28
Edmonds, WA

 

[S. Todd]

We have a 2021 R29S which I believe has the same power as your C28. The prop removal is rather straight forward.
You remove the bolt and washer holding on the anode and the anode should pull off (if it has corrosion you might have to tap it slightly with a small dead blow hammer). Remove the cotter pin from the prop nut and unscrew the prop nut and its washer. Install the prop puller and work it with approximately equal pressure from the four bolts that put the pressure on the prop. I was surprised at how much torque it took to get the prop to finally "pop" off the shaft. I say "pop" because, unlike the IO props I removed for years from splined Mercruiser shafts, on the tapered prop shaft it is tight until it finally pops.
Your prop should be an ACME propeller, and you can purchase a replacement from www.acmemarine.com (tele: 888-661-2263). My experience is they know what size they sell to Fluid Motion for your application, but you can also confirm with the numbers stamped on your current prop or with Fluid Motion.
The prop key that keeps the prop from spinning on the shaft can be obtained from Marine Hardware, Inc. .375 x 2.18 Single Piece Keystock Brass for 1.50 Shaft. Tele: 425-883-0651
Boat Zincs.com (tele: 978-841-9978) can sell you a replacement prop nut, replacement anode and mounting screw (actually a bolt but they call it a screw) for that anode (install the new one with threadlocker).

 

[TristenT]

I second S. Todd. Pretty strait forward process though I will say the prop can get pretty seized on the shaft if it hasn’t been removed before I ran into this last summer.

The prop shop in Mukilteo seem to be a great bunch of guys they just shipped me my new used prop that they tuned up.

Take your prop in there and see if what they say about the repair. Their cost to do a full repair on a 19” nibral prop is about $400. Much better than jumping strait to a $2000 brand new prop. This is also a great time to adjust pitch if you haven’t been reaching max rpm. I just switched to a 21p from the factory 23p acme

 

[FredJ]

Thanks for that great input. I was going to have the shop assess whether it can be repaired or not. Any thoughts on the size wrench for the prop nut?
I'll be going with a full toolbox anyway but would avoid the crescent wrench if I knew the size I need in advance. I was planning on reusing the key.
The prop had been off not to far back so I'm hoping it isn't going to be stuck too tight. I haven't studied the prop pitch debate too much. I did the rpm test a few years ago and could make full rpm with a very light load and no trim tabs. Bow to the sky. It was quite squirrely. But I saw 3600.

The thread locker you mentioned is for keeping the anode screw tight. Is that correct?

Fred Juhos
Blue J-2 '21C28
Edmonds, WA

 

[S. Todd]

Correct, Thread locker is for the anode bolt. The prop nut is rather large and my spare is 8 hours away so I cannot help with measurement. Once you remove the cotter pin, I don't think you will find it all that tight and removal with an adjustable wrench should not be an issue. If it was removed recently your key should be OK. They are inexpensive so I ordered a spare when I was in the process of ordering spare prop, spare prop nut, and my prop puller.

 

[Rednuke1]

Correct, Thread locker is for the anode bolt. The prop nut is rather large and my spare is 8 hours away so I cannot help with measurement. Once you remove the cotter pin, I don't think you will find it all that tight and removal with an adjustable wrench should not be an issue. If it was removed recently your key should be OK. They are inexpensive so I ordered a spare when I was in the process of ordering spare prop, spare prop nut, and my prop puller.

Could you share what type of prop puller you used, and where you purchased it! Thanks!

 

[S. Todd]

In February of 2022, I purchased a Walter Machine Co. Prop Puller, Model No. 2N, for our four-blade propeller. I purchased it from propellerdepot.com a d/b/a of Deep Blue Yacht Supply, Inc. Computer order details call it: NO2N Walter Machine Plate Puller.
Three years ago, when I bought it, the cost was $362.99 plus $23.22 for UPS Ground shipping.
Telephone No. of the Salesperson I talked to was 954-444-6259

 

[FredJ]

Just sharing for the good of the order. The nut holding the prop zinc on is a hex nut of unknown size. The experienced tech recommended blue thread lock on that to keep the zinc on. He also recommended after any significant prop strike, to check the alignment of the engine and shaft. Apparently, a strike can impact the shaft enough to jolt the engine slightly askew on it's mounts. So I'll have that done next oil change with them.

 

[kelpline]

I made a pro puller for our 4-blade prop, then set it on tight. Make sure the prop nut is still in place, loose, then I fired up the propane tiger torch, aimed at one spot for 2 minutes, then bang it let go.