Quick and easy (sort of) question

R

rpmerrill

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2016
Messages
608
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Vessel Name
BAY RANGER
Anybody know what size allen wrench fits the two bolts that are holding my stern thruster in place?

Bonus Question:
For that matter, what is the spec on the two bolts?
 
I believe it to be 6mm . There is special tool that now comes with new boats and is available from the factory. I don't think there is room for an Allen key. The ratchet tool has less depth.
 
I cut down a 5.5 mm allen wrench because it seemed to be right and, at an angle, looked like it might fit in.
Well, it did fit in but it was loose (about 30 degrees of slop). After I posted the question, I did some geometry and determined that it was probably a 6 mm. Tomorrow AM I'll be cutting down my 6 mm wrench and give it a try.

At the time of the posting I had visions of cutting down all my metric allen wrenches. Panic !
Thanks for the help. I think we've got it now. Stay tuned.

Also, I think someone posted the bolt as being an 8 mm.
And I read that someone posted the idea of locktight-ing an 8mm stud in place to make the re-install easier.
Has this actually been done?
Comments, anyone?
 
rpmerrill,

Yes, the wrench size is 6mm. Because of a close clearance issue against the housing, the hex tool has to be shortened down ever so slightly with a file or grinder, unless you have the special issue version from the factory or Imtra.

See this link for a complete discussion with pictures of replacing the shear pin on both the bow (Dale777) and stern thruster (Walldog) for an R27:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2013&p=18509#p18509
 
The cut down 6mm worked like a champ. Thanks Dale777.
Those shear pins look like real buggers. I vow to be more careful with my thrusters in the future.

Still no fun taking it out. I can only imagine putting it back in.
Still hoping someone will chime in on the studs + locktite idea.

I'm taking it to my dealer this week for analysis and (likely) send off to Side Power.
Being that it is all sealed in the can, I don't know if the motor failed or the controls failed. Or why.
It doesn't look like it has been very wet (Although there are some dirty water stains in the compartment.) Anyone have any home-brew fixes for keeping the thruster more dry?
I think I'll be cleaning some of the dirt out of there b4 she goes back in. Not sure how it gets so wet back there. No real signs of leakage. Based on the dirt, maybe it is just cockpit deck scupper overflow?

On a possibly related subject, I will be replacing the exhaust hose this winter also. My surveyor recommended it last spring. That should be a fun job. It is a really stout hunk of rubber. But the rubber hose surface is all split and cracked. It does have some "interesting" stains on it. A possible source of the water back there? I have a separate post on the exhaust hose. I'll continue this part of the story back there.
 
R Baker":15id6m1h said:
I believe it to be 6mm . There is special tool that now comes with new boats and is available from the factory. I don't think there is room for an Allen key. The ratchet tool has less depth.
Click to expand...

FYI if you need the "special" ratcheting handle for the Side Power thrusters, it is made (US MADE!) by Chapman Manufacturing and can be purchased online from them and other retailers.

http://chapmanmfg.com/

Good stuff.

dave
 
There is a photo of my truncated 6mm allen wrench in my photo album. Also shown is my patented "don't drop it in the bilge" device. My tool box is full of wrenches with strings on them.


I do have one of those little ratchets but didn't have a 6mm bit that would fit it. And I was impatient, as usual.
I read the comment that I should have one that came with the boat... and that is starting to ring a bell. I'll check.

Once I had put about one turn on the bolts, they were mostly turnable by finger.
 
Thanks so much for suggesting our tools Dave! Most of our sales comes from customer recommendation because we have a very small ad budget.

We're a small company (less than 15 of us) and the amount of different things people use our tools on astounds me. Our tools have been used by NASA, the military, Steinway piano tuners and medical equipment techs for a long time, but I've never gotten an e-mail or a phone call for a customer who uses our tools on their tugboat.

What type of fasteners are used on tugboats? Is there something that you need that we don't currently make?

Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks!
Joel
Marketing at Chapman MFG
joel@chapmanmfg.com
 
I got a call from my friends at Pocket Yachts and my thruster is fixed. The autopsy showed a failed controller circuit board had died. Everything else in the "hermetic can" was fine. No evidence of water intrusion or damage.

So my thruster is fixed at much less cost than a new one. They told me this was the best type of failure that I could have hoped for. Now all I have to do is reinstall it. Ugh.

I'll be experimenting with the stud method of putting it back in. I have obtained some new stainless (but longer) bolts and cut the heads off. (With a little bit of locktite on the studs.) I think it will make alignment easier when plugging the contraption back into place. I've seen people suggest this method, but have never heard that it was actually done.

As I've said before.... Stay tuned.
 
I can see making up the studs for alignment, but you lost me with the locktite. once you have the thruster in place don't you want to be able to remove the stud and install the regular hex bolt? With locktite applied you won't be able to loosen the stud by hand. Maybe I am missing something?
 
Locktite would be for a permanent stud installation. Why switch back to the bolts?

I'd use the studs and some stainless nylock nuts and things should stay safely tight down there, yet the nuts would be fairly easy to wrench off. (I think?) AND then after I drop them, they are easier to replace than the (fairly unique) bolts.

I get what you are saying about just using the studs for alignment and then switching out to the bolts,one at a time. Do you see any advantage for going back to the bolts? I haven't thought of any, but that doesn't mean anything.

Thanks
 
My only concern would be thread damage when trying to position the motor on to the threaded studs. If the threads get screwed up then you will have an issue removing the damaged threaded stud.
 
Good point. They are stainless which is pretty tough stuff, but I wouldn't want to horse it around too much.

While I've got everyone's attention. As I said I got my thruster back with a new controller and all is well....I think.

I was at the marina this AM thinking about the re-install during the next warm spell. I was talking to a guy at my marina and he asked, "Did you get new brushes installed while everything was all opened up?"
I said, "Humma, humma, humma, brushes?"
This boat is 4 years old and has 1000 hours on it. (two trips up and down the ICW by previous owner) I'm assuming it has the original brushes. (It had the original "warranty paint dabs" on the conduit connections when I took it out.)

Considering the efforts involved in removal and installation... would you open it up now and put in new brushes?
I assume they are accessible from plugs or bolts in the side of the stator?
 
Hearing no other opinions, the old brushes will remain.
 
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