Newf":3mm5otfu said:
-assuming the coupling comes off of the shaft OK and I can re-use it, should I be coating the shaft with any type of anti-seize before reinstalling the coupling? Is it necessary and does it help with re-installation of the coupling?
Removal and installation of the coupling on a double taper shaft. I assume that the R21 has a double taper shaft. The larger Rangers and Cutwaters do. The coupling removal from the shaft will be similar to the prop removal from the shaft. It will require the removal of the retaining nut and " Popping" the coupling off the shaft taper. If there is room using a puller will work the same way as using a puller to remove the prop. (If there is room is ) The big question. There isn't in my boat. There are several methods that can be used to loosen the coupling from the taper. All will be a PIA in tight quarters. You will have to determine which is best in your application. I believe when the day comes for me to do cutlass, packing replacement and motor mounts I will find a good reason to pull the engine.
When you get the coupling off and the shaft pulled out of the log. Place the shaft in V blocks on your bench. Clean the shaft then inspect the area's where the cutlass bearing "rides" ,the packing, and the 2 tapered ends of the shaft. If you have a dial indicator check the shaft runout. If the shaft looks good it is time to refit the components to it. I use fine grit lapping compound. Apply a thin layer on the shaft taper slide the coupling on the shaft. With light pressure turn the coupling to 3 o'clock and then back to 12 o'clock. Remove the coupling and look at the shaft. If there are high spots you will see them. If you see a few high spots lap the coupling to the shaft until it appears to have a uniform fit. Repeat this with the prop to shaft taper. Once the taper fits are good install the coupling with a thin coat of oil, slide it on the shaft ,mark the shaft where the coupling draw ends on the shaft. Remove the coupling and fit the key. You want the coupling to land at the same spot with the key installed. This insures the key is not interfering with the taper fit. Repeat this with the prop to taper shaft. Next fit your new cutlass bearing to the shaft. Slide the bearing on to the shaft. Place the bearing where it will ride on the shaft when installed in the log. Use a feeler gauge to measure the clearance Minimum .003 max .008 clearance for a 3/4 " to 1 1/4" shaft. The shaft is ready for install.
Removal of the cutlass bearing will require a slam hammer with inside jaws. Removal of the set screws. When the bearing is removed and the packing stuffing box and hose. Inspect the bore of fiberglass log for cracks, blistering and damage.
The easiest place to service the packing gland is at the work bench. Remove the old packing, remove the hose, clean the exterior of the gland, interior bore of the gland, clean and dress the threads. Cut the packing lengths using the shaft sitting in the V blocks on the bench as your guide. Install the packing in the bore of the gland. Packing material can be purchased from Ranger parts or Marine hardware. This is the description of the product Marine Hardware uses (A high-tech non-asbestos composite fiber impregnated with virgin PTFE in-suspension and internally saturated with a proprietary lubricant.) Ranger uses Marine Hardware stuffing boxes. After repacking install a new hose and clamps for installation.
Motor mount installation and anchor hold down fasteners. If you find the lags bolts are stripped out and the wood appears to be in good shape. The easiest fix is install larger diameter lag bolts. If the lags are 5/16 replace with 3/8, 3/8 replace 7/16 or 1/2". If you need to enlarge the mounting holes at the base of the mounts slightly this can be done before installation.
I do recommend using an epoxy wood penetrating sealant ( get rot) or Total Boat products work well, dry the holes before the application and let the epoxy sealant cure before installing the lags. Use a good marine sealant to prevent water from migrating into the stringer in the future.
If you find the wood to be rotten and the wood wet and damaged. Removal of the engine would make the job easier. The advantage of having a smaller engine is it is light and easily removed. I believe the D1 weighs just over 300 lbs with the gear. After removal of the engine the proper repairs to the stringer can be made. I have used oak dowel rods for repairing damaged stringer motor mount holes. Example 3/8 lag stripped out, wood rotted, drill 5/8 hole, dry the wood, saturate the wood with epoxy and drive a 5/8" dowel rod into the hole sealing with epoxy. Let this cure, pre-drill 1/4" in the center of the installed 5/8 dowel rod. Use new 3/8 lag bolts with sealant to anchor engine mounts. If you do remove the engine I would install all the shaft hardware before installing the engine you will have more room. Final step is engine alignment and packing gland adjustment. Once you are done with this project you will be good for another 2000 hrs of use.
The question should you put grease on the coupling or prop at the mating surface of the shaft? A mechanical engineer will say NO Greasing is detrimental to the friction.The friction between the tapers. That being said I always apply a thin layer of anti-corrosion grease on the shaft taper. I have never had an issue with a prop or coupling coming loose from a taper. Right or wrong !!!
Good luck with your project.
