R-25 Impeller Change

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kaarynhall

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May 25, 2013
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Fluid Motion Model
C-248 C
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2513G809
Vessel Name
Karen and Richard Culp
The raw water impeller on my R-25 Ranger Tug seems inaccessible from either the cockpit hatch or the step hatch inside the door. While the service manuel specifies how to change the impeller, it states the entire pump must be removed to gain access to the impeller, it does not describe how to access the pump which seems to be buried at the front of the engine. The engine is the 130 HP model. I would appreciate any advice on how to gain access to the pump without removing the engine.
 
Not sure if the R25 is the same as our R27 but if it is I've attached Mike Rizzo's detailed instructions, hopefully this will help. If the R25 is different I'll bet someone else will let us know.

Good luck,



R-27 Impeller change
by knotflying on Wed Feb 06, 2013 12:28 pm

I just changed my impeller on my R-27. It took me 1.5 hours with the help of another person. Below are the steps I took:

Tools
22 mm socket 3/8 drive
6 mm hex male 3/8 drive
3” extension
3/8 drive ratchet
Long needle nose plier
¼ inch drift pin or Phillips screwdriver of same diameter
Paper towel

• Shut seacock valve
• Turn off engine switch
• Disconnect engine positive wire
• Remove interior panel that has 110 and 12 V outlet. This makes sliding and removing slide panel easier and allows for better vision from side into engine
• Remove Impeller pulley belt – From cockpit side have one person push on belt at bottom of impeller pulley. Have 2nd person in cockpit on port. Reach into crankshaft pulley with 22mm socket, extension and ratchet. Turn engine clockwise (as if you were looking aft) and belt will work off.
• The following work is from cockpit side. Having 2nd person looking from inside helps a bit
• Turn impeller pulley so that pulley slots allow access to hex bolts
• Put a piece of paper towel on male end of extension and force hex socket onto extension. This will prevent the socket from falling off.
• Feel your way to the hex bolt and insert drive into bolt and then attach ratchet. Just loosen bolt, do not remove.
• Do this same procedure for the three remaining bolts.
• Now put a piece of paper towel on the end of the hex drive and force that into the hex bolt. If you loosened your bolts enough you can screw them out with just the extension and no ratchet.
• Once all the bolts are out you can slide the pulley and housing out and the person inside can handle it through the step access.
• Get a good set of straight needle nose pliers and insert them with one end in shaft hole and one end between blades and yank. Once you have it out half way you can turn clockwise while pulling out and you should have it in hand.
• There is a small O-ring type washer on the motor side housing. Mine looked good so I did not replace it.
• Insert new impeller by working it in turning it clockwise and inward pressure. Once started push it in.
• Now insert pulley and shaft assembly. Line up holes using the drift pin in one of the holes.
• Do the paper towel trick, using only the extension and screw in like you would a screwdriver and be careful not to cross thread the bolts. First turn counterclockwise then clockwise so as to be sure you are not cross threading and hand tighten. Do this for the remaining bolts.
• Now remove the paper towel piece in between the 6mm drive and the bolt and now tighten all the bolts using the ratchet.
• Now with the help of the 2nd person. Place the belt around the drive pulley and start it on the impeller pulley at the bottom
• Go back to your removal positions and turn the engine clockwise while the impeller person works the belt on.
• Visually inspect from the inside to be sure belt is on both pulleys appropriately.
• Reconnect engine power cable, turn on engine battery switch and open the seacock.
• Check for any leaks.
• Start engine, check that water is discharging, and look for leaks.
• Hi five and have a beer.
 
I have an R25sc and have posted- "whined"- about the poor engine access. In as much as intend to keep the boat, I removed the stair and replaced it with a modified stair system that allows much better access to the engine. If you can't do this yourself, it requires some skill, you could probably find a cabinet maker or boat chandlery person to remove the old step and fabricate a stair for you. It takes me about 5 minutes to remove the stair and maybe 20-30 non painful minutes to replace the impeller. You can see a photo of the finished stair with description of what is going on in my photo album. I would be happy to tell you how it was done if you want to do the replacement. I think it is the weakest point in the boat's design.
 
Is you engine a Cummins or a Yanmar?
 
The R25 classic and R25SC are two different animals. The SC has a bit better access through the forward hatch which I have changed several from this location. Although its not like the R21EC and you lay on your belly, I find the impeller access still very manageable. The R25 classic is a bit tough to reach but still doable. If you want to make it easier, cut the fiberglass back a little bit and it will make for a much easier job.

Feel free to contact is directly if you have any questions.

253-839-5213

Andrew Custis
 
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