Ram
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2009
- Messages
- 86
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-248 C
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT2511I607
- Vessel Name
- Akashi
I wanted to document some of the modifications I've been making in my Ranger 25 in case anyone else has similar issues or questions. I want to state up front that I am a big fan of the Ranger and have visited the factory, and I am very impressed with both the quality of the design, the work that is being done, and the support being provided. I have only had this boat for 6 months now, but I spend a great deal of time aboard it and I and my whole family really enjoy it. Please do not take anything I post as being critical of the boat or the builders.
I have hull #11, a 2007 model that I believe was the first one (and only one?) imported into Canada. It is a little unusual in that it has a Yanmar 125 HP, and I'm only aware (through this forum) of one other R25 that has a Yanmar 125. In other respects it is "stock". I bought it used from the original owner who had it for 1 year, cruised it a few times, but was getting too old to keep it up. I had been interested in the R25 before, having seen an R21 a number of years ago and admired the design, when this one showed up in the slip right across from my sailboat. We wound up buying it - as my wife said, how can she stop me when the boat found me?
These are a few of the changes or fixes I have made in the boat:
- When I first got the boat, every time I came down to check on it there was an accumulation of a few inches of water at the aft end of the starboard cockpit locker (under the fule tank f rot he stove). I pumped this out and sponged the compartment dry a number of times, and was thinking there was some problem in the gaskets or the cockpit drains. Eventually I found a drip on the supply hose for the hot water heater. Tightening the clamps on both ends of this hose fixed that leak for good.
- I had another accumulation of water along the port shelf in the forward cabin. I first stuffed foam insulation up in the gunwhale (behind the liner, thinking this was condensation. But that didn't do it completely, and I never had water on the port side. I then opened the liner under the anchor locker and found a drip on the drain hose. The clamps were tight, but the nipple at the base of the anchor locker wasn't well sealed. I did a patch job with some 5200 around the nipple to seal that off. Almost all water gone, but not quite. I finally filled the seam along the top of the rubrail in that area with clear LifeSeal because someone here had mentioned there is no sealant applied under the rubrail. Since then I've had no further water in this area, so I'm assuming the main cause of the problem was the seal on the rubrail (probably water dribbling around the screws int he hull-to-deck-joint).
- The second time I went to go out in the boat there was no drive when I put it in gear. After checking the shift cable, the transmission fluid, etc., I realized that the shaft had separated from the transmission hub. I found all the bolts and nuts in the bilge. I replaced them at that time, but I noticed that the bolts were barely long enough for the locknuts to lock on. I expect they vibrated a bit, lost their grip and just fell off. I've since replaced the bolts with longer ones. The originals were 2" bolts, I used 2 1/2" bolts with about 1/4" cut off the ends (so really 2 1/4" bolts). This leaves plenty of thread for the locknuts to grip properly. I don't know if this particular problem is unique to the Yanmar 125, but I'd advise checking the bolts on your shaft hub, especially if you have a Yanmar.
- The dinette table was not centered between the seats, so there was quite a bit of room between the table and the forward seat, and I could hardly sit in the aft seat. I considered a number of remedies, including cutting off part of the table. It finally occurred to me to just unscrew the table from the tops of the pedestals and shift it over a couple of inches. I don't know if this is a design issue or just a manufacturing error, but the table works much better for me in this position. I was careful not to move it too far forward that it would interfere with the folding of the forward seat. What I found is that it works fine if the front edge of the table just contacts the back of the seat when it's flipped forward into "cruising" position. I also unscrewed the bottom of the aft seat back and put a shimm behind to give it a bit of slant. Now the aft seat is much more comfortable.
- I also installed a bimini top, purchased through King Canvas, the supplier for the Ranger. The quality of both the frame and the canvas is excellent. The installation, which I did alone, was not exactly a piece of cake, especially since some of the interior trim had to come off in order to retrofit the rails on the cabin top. But it went well and I am glad to have this option. Over the winter, which is very wet and moldy here, I just stretched a poly tarp over the frame, and it protects the cockpit very well as well as my head.
- Another little tip. I think everyone knows that it's somewhat difficult to see well when going in reverse due to the head compartment and aft bulkhead. I found a little rearview mirror at a chandlery ($19.95) that has a suction cup base. I stuck this on the outside of the leading edge of the opening window at the helm seat. Great rear vision right down the side of the boat without even turning my head. I'm going to get one for the port side as well. Well, actually 2 - I managed to knock the one I had put on overboard while trying to adjust it.
Other changes I plan to make:
1) Autopilot - I have an auto-tiller on my sailboat and consider it indispenible for extended cruising.
2) Trim tab indicators - These would just be nice to have, even though some of the reviews I've read of the Bennett ones suggest they may not always work that well.
3) Galvanic isolator - I'm in the water year-round and use AC. From Andrew's description it sounds like this is an easy install.
4) High-capacity bilge pump - My boat has a single Rule 750. I bought a Rule 3500, I'm planning to install it just forward of the muffler and either tie the outlet into the macerator pump discharge line or add a separate line.
5) High-water bilge alarm - Haven't you realized yet that I'm a maniac about dry boats? 😎
I have hull #11, a 2007 model that I believe was the first one (and only one?) imported into Canada. It is a little unusual in that it has a Yanmar 125 HP, and I'm only aware (through this forum) of one other R25 that has a Yanmar 125. In other respects it is "stock". I bought it used from the original owner who had it for 1 year, cruised it a few times, but was getting too old to keep it up. I had been interested in the R25 before, having seen an R21 a number of years ago and admired the design, when this one showed up in the slip right across from my sailboat. We wound up buying it - as my wife said, how can she stop me when the boat found me?
These are a few of the changes or fixes I have made in the boat:
- When I first got the boat, every time I came down to check on it there was an accumulation of a few inches of water at the aft end of the starboard cockpit locker (under the fule tank f rot he stove). I pumped this out and sponged the compartment dry a number of times, and was thinking there was some problem in the gaskets or the cockpit drains. Eventually I found a drip on the supply hose for the hot water heater. Tightening the clamps on both ends of this hose fixed that leak for good.
- I had another accumulation of water along the port shelf in the forward cabin. I first stuffed foam insulation up in the gunwhale (behind the liner, thinking this was condensation. But that didn't do it completely, and I never had water on the port side. I then opened the liner under the anchor locker and found a drip on the drain hose. The clamps were tight, but the nipple at the base of the anchor locker wasn't well sealed. I did a patch job with some 5200 around the nipple to seal that off. Almost all water gone, but not quite. I finally filled the seam along the top of the rubrail in that area with clear LifeSeal because someone here had mentioned there is no sealant applied under the rubrail. Since then I've had no further water in this area, so I'm assuming the main cause of the problem was the seal on the rubrail (probably water dribbling around the screws int he hull-to-deck-joint).
- The second time I went to go out in the boat there was no drive when I put it in gear. After checking the shift cable, the transmission fluid, etc., I realized that the shaft had separated from the transmission hub. I found all the bolts and nuts in the bilge. I replaced them at that time, but I noticed that the bolts were barely long enough for the locknuts to lock on. I expect they vibrated a bit, lost their grip and just fell off. I've since replaced the bolts with longer ones. The originals were 2" bolts, I used 2 1/2" bolts with about 1/4" cut off the ends (so really 2 1/4" bolts). This leaves plenty of thread for the locknuts to grip properly. I don't know if this particular problem is unique to the Yanmar 125, but I'd advise checking the bolts on your shaft hub, especially if you have a Yanmar.
- The dinette table was not centered between the seats, so there was quite a bit of room between the table and the forward seat, and I could hardly sit in the aft seat. I considered a number of remedies, including cutting off part of the table. It finally occurred to me to just unscrew the table from the tops of the pedestals and shift it over a couple of inches. I don't know if this is a design issue or just a manufacturing error, but the table works much better for me in this position. I was careful not to move it too far forward that it would interfere with the folding of the forward seat. What I found is that it works fine if the front edge of the table just contacts the back of the seat when it's flipped forward into "cruising" position. I also unscrewed the bottom of the aft seat back and put a shimm behind to give it a bit of slant. Now the aft seat is much more comfortable.
- I also installed a bimini top, purchased through King Canvas, the supplier for the Ranger. The quality of both the frame and the canvas is excellent. The installation, which I did alone, was not exactly a piece of cake, especially since some of the interior trim had to come off in order to retrofit the rails on the cabin top. But it went well and I am glad to have this option. Over the winter, which is very wet and moldy here, I just stretched a poly tarp over the frame, and it protects the cockpit very well as well as my head.
- Another little tip. I think everyone knows that it's somewhat difficult to see well when going in reverse due to the head compartment and aft bulkhead. I found a little rearview mirror at a chandlery ($19.95) that has a suction cup base. I stuck this on the outside of the leading edge of the opening window at the helm seat. Great rear vision right down the side of the boat without even turning my head. I'm going to get one for the port side as well. Well, actually 2 - I managed to knock the one I had put on overboard while trying to adjust it.
Other changes I plan to make:
1) Autopilot - I have an auto-tiller on my sailboat and consider it indispenible for extended cruising.
2) Trim tab indicators - These would just be nice to have, even though some of the reviews I've read of the Bennett ones suggest they may not always work that well.
3) Galvanic isolator - I'm in the water year-round and use AC. From Andrew's description it sounds like this is an easy install.
4) High-capacity bilge pump - My boat has a single Rule 750. I bought a Rule 3500, I'm planning to install it just forward of the muffler and either tie the outlet into the macerator pump discharge line or add a separate line.
5) High-water bilge alarm - Haven't you realized yet that I'm a maniac about dry boats? 😎