Ever since purchasing our R-25 I've been somewhat unhappy with the way the engine cabin step was latched down securely. Very early on I applied 1/4" thick rubber seals around the lid's edges hoping this would provide a good seal and minimize engine noise in the cabin. It did not do a good job and at the time I did this modification I noticed the lid was prematurely stopped from closing tightly and the latches were somewhat loose when latched down.
Today I took another look at things. I noticed that the hook portion of the latch (the part that is screwed into the lid's edge) was not far enough out and actually would rest on the top edge of the vertical portion of the step. I was also bothered by the fact that the latches were loose when fully engaged.
This is what I did to resolve the issue.
1. I moved the latch hooks closer to the lid's outer edge -- maybe about 1/8" to 1/4" and ensured they cleared the top edge of the step's vertical member.
2. I moved the locking lever portion of the latch (the pieces attached to the top of the step's vertical member. I would say I moved them down about 1/4".
I now find the lid closes and pinches down nicely on the rubber seals I applied some time ago, and the latches are firm to close and certainly aren't loose any more when fully latched down.
The engine noise in the cabin is also nicely subdued, as the rubber seals on the underside of the step's lid are doing what they are intended to do -- that is, to seal off any opening under the closed lid which otherwise allows engine noise to penetrate into the cabin.
The below photo shows the lock down latches that I moved down some 1/4". Also note, there are but 4 screws that secure the vertical member of the step to the underlying fiber glass surround. Removing this vertical member will be easy and allow greater access to the engine which should make things far more accessible when replacing the water impeller.
The below photo shows the step lid's latch hooks which I moved toward the lids out edge so they would no longer make physical contact with the vertical member of the step. Also, note the rubber strips I applied to the lid's underside. These strips seal any gaps between the lid and the steps when lid is securely latched down.
Today I took another look at things. I noticed that the hook portion of the latch (the part that is screwed into the lid's edge) was not far enough out and actually would rest on the top edge of the vertical portion of the step. I was also bothered by the fact that the latches were loose when fully engaged.
This is what I did to resolve the issue.
1. I moved the latch hooks closer to the lid's outer edge -- maybe about 1/8" to 1/4" and ensured they cleared the top edge of the step's vertical member.
2. I moved the locking lever portion of the latch (the pieces attached to the top of the step's vertical member. I would say I moved them down about 1/4".
I now find the lid closes and pinches down nicely on the rubber seals I applied some time ago, and the latches are firm to close and certainly aren't loose any more when fully latched down.
The engine noise in the cabin is also nicely subdued, as the rubber seals on the underside of the step's lid are doing what they are intended to do -- that is, to seal off any opening under the closed lid which otherwise allows engine noise to penetrate into the cabin.
The below photo shows the lock down latches that I moved down some 1/4". Also note, there are but 4 screws that secure the vertical member of the step to the underlying fiber glass surround. Removing this vertical member will be easy and allow greater access to the engine which should make things far more accessible when replacing the water impeller.
The below photo shows the step lid's latch hooks which I moved toward the lids out edge so they would no longer make physical contact with the vertical member of the step. Also, note the rubber strips I applied to the lid's underside. These strips seal any gaps between the lid and the steps when lid is securely latched down.