R21-EC with Volvo Penta - question(s) to owners

sheral

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2015
Messages
351
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C SE
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2114H415
Vessel Name
Sheral Ann (2015 R-21EC)
MMSI Number
316029832
Did you guys happen to get an updated R-21 Owner's Manual? Ours still refers to the Yanmar engine and some of the diagrams in the manual are not in keeping with our boat (2015).

And has anyone winterized their Volvo - Penta seawater system yet using the 'bucket and antifreeze' method as shown in the V-P manual? The V-P manual shows to simply remove the seacock hose and put it into the bucket. The hose(s) on our boat aren't long enough to even consider doing this, so have you added a length of hose, etc? Thanks.
 
Think I will try (Karl's) this method today - to put mixed antifreeze into the seawater system over the winter. Still interested to know what the V-P owners have done if using the 'mix in a bucket' routine as outlined in the V-P manual...

"I've found any easy way to flush the engine after each use. I bought a 5 gallon bucket from the hardware store, drilled a hole near the bottom and fitted it with a barb that has a male connection to a regular hose. I put the bucket on the swim platform and fill it with fresh water running from the house. I made a second short hose with female connections on both ends and connect the hose from the bucket to the male fresh water intake on the engine. Once the bucket is full I start the engine and run fresh water through. I keep the water running into the bucket to match the output from the engine. I rev the engine up to flush all the salt water out. So far this is working well. I have about 450 hrs on the engine with no noticeable problems. Karl"
 
Hello Sheral,

If your Volvo has this type of connector (note this is a pic of a CAR, not a boat) incorportated into the raw water circuit:
images
Then simply hook a length of garden hose up to it (female hose-end req'd). Place the other end of the "flush hose" in the gallon of RV antifreeze, then crank up the engine and winterize away. My Yanmar 3YM uses ONE gallon to get solid pink stuff coming out the exhaust. I don't bother pouring it into a bucket.

For running the engine "on the hose" I get a 5 gallon bucket, put the running garden hose in it to supply fresh water, then place the "flush hose" in the bottom of the bucket, and let the engine run. I do it a little easier than Karl's method by skipping the placement of the hose fitting in the bottom of the bucket.

If you don't have a 'radiator' flush fitting already in your raw water circuit, it would be easy to add. If you are tempted to connect a pressurized hose to the raw water system, BEWARE that you COULD force water into the cylinder heads if the hose is running whilst the engine is off. It CAN be done this way but I advise against it until you know the risks and how to avoid catastrophic engine damage.

I find the raw water strainer too small to try to pour the antifreeze in whilst the engine idles; the engine drinks it up to quickly to pour it in without periodic overfill and the ensuing mess. All that is avoided by using "the hose."

dave
 
Thanks Dave. I didn't see one of those fittings on the V-P but will check again and if not will add one later this winter. Thanks for the detailed information.
 
I believe they were standard on the Yanmar.

Dave
 
FWIW, I found that using 1/2" i/d fittings in the bucket (I placed the bucket on the swim grid with a piece of large diameter hose with a shut off at the strainer end) did not allow quite enough flow into the strainer. So I swapped the fitting out for 3/4" fitting and it works well.
 
I have a 2014 R-21 and I haven't winterized as I plan to fish off and on over the winter months. I just use a heater in engine compartment that kicks in at +3-C. I trailer my boat all the time so I just installed a radiator flush "Tee " fitting in the exhaust system suction hose so I could run up the engine while on the hard to warm it up and make the oil change-out easier. Installed the T-fitting in hose location directly below the alternator area. This was the easiest access location for me. Screwed on a 3ft section of 3/4" hose and put it in a bucket of water placed in the cockpit that was being filled by garden hose from the house. Turned off seawater valve, fired up the engine and presto,,,,warmed up the engine for oil changeout and gave the exhaust system a good flush at the same time. I could have left the 3ft hose in place and just capped it but I removed it and just capped off the Tee fitting. Don't forget to open the seacock again and do another check for oil and water after the launch. If I do decide to winterize it will be a simple task of screwing the hose back on and filling the bucket with appropriate glycol mixture..

450hrs and no "major" issues so far. Did find a couple of loose hold down bolts in one of the front engine mounts.

On a different note,,in my Volvo Penta manual it says to used the same oil for the engine in the reverse gear.. I checked out other info that Volvo has on their websites and for the MS15L-B reverse gear they recommend ATF Dexron II/III. I did not see any mention of using same oil as the engine of this particular reverse gear model. Was wondering what other owners of the R21's are using in the reverse gear.. Tks. Marcel
 
I called Volvo Penta (Canada) and they confirmed to use 15w-40 engine oil in the reverse gear.

Nice work on the t-fitting. That will make life a lot easier.
 
I have winterized mine twice by myself.
Close the sea cock valve.
I open my sea strainer and let the garden
hose run into the open strainer. Start the
engine and let it warm up. Approximately
15 minutes to warm the oil. Change the engine
oil and oil filter. After topping off with new oil,
there is usually a little a little bit left in a gallon
jug to get the proper oil level. Have two gallons
of pink RV antifreeze open and ready to pour.
I tie off a five gallon pail under my wet exhaust
port. Start the engine and immediately start pouring
the pink antifreeze into the open sea strainer. When
the second gallon is almost empty reach around the
engine (starboard side) and use the kill switch on
the side of the engine. Top off the sea strainer and
replace the cap. I do not use my fresh water potable
water system so that was winterized last year.
 
One other important thing to check is your engine
coolant. Get yourself an antifreeze ball tester. When
I checked mine, my level of freeze protection was only
good to zero degrees. I had to enrich the coolant system
with some 100% antifreeze. I just sucked out the plastic
holding tank and replaced the same amount with 100 proof.
My freeze protection is now good to -40 degrees F.
 
Newf,
You mentioned using a heater in winter places in the engine compartment of your R21. Can you describe that more to me? Do you place it in the bulge area or iner the motor lift? What hatches or motor mounts do you leave cracked or open?

Thank you.
 
Hamilcon2":bldeep69 said:
Newf,
You mentioned using a heater in winter places in the engine compartment of your R21. Can you describe that more to me? Do you place it in the bulge area or iner the motor lift? What hatches or motor mounts do you leave cracked or open?

Thank you.

I set it in the engine compartment. I haven't opened any additional vents. The side vent in the engine cover has been sufficient. I set the heater on the lowest heat and fan setting and it just kicks in when the set temperature is reached. Been doing this for the last 4 winters and have had no issues. Not sure of the brand name of the heater but I bought it at West Marine. I'm away from home until this coming Wednesday and can post it for you when I get back.
 
That would be super and if you have some pics to share would be cool.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hamilcon2":b00vusoh said:
That would be super and if you have some pics to share would be cool.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi Hamilcon2, I've added an album "Flushing and Winterizing" showing the heater I use and also what I do for flushing the raw water system. Open up the photos as a bit of description has been added to most of them. This works for my needs so I'm sharing it as information only. Other owners need to consider their own circumstances and do what works for them. Feel free to PM me anytime if you have questions on this.

Take Care
Marcel.
 
Back
Top