R23 bow thruster anode question

[Squid]

Hi there tugnuts,

I’ll be hauling out our R23 next week for the Yamaha 100 hour service. Figured I’d address the anodes at the same time... can anybody tell me what type of thruster is installed? I imagine the zinc on it needs to be replaced and I’d like to arrange the parts ahead of time. Our mechanic “doesn’t do thrusters” so I’m kind of on my own on this.

Thanks for your insight in advance.

Unrelated photo of Vancouver harbour a few nights ago.

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[baz]

You may check with RT about R23 thruster anode.... but you may find it does not require one. My R27/OB's bow thruster did not require one and the thruster was a Lewmar brand.

 

[jagizzi]

Barry is correct. There is no anode on the bow thruster. It is a Lewmar thruster I believe.

You do have the anodes on the trim tabs and another one on the bottom of the Yamaha motor mount and another at the base of the motor itself. The skeg is an anode.

Jim

 

[Squid]

Thank you Baz and Jim... appreciate the help!


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[Squid]

You may check with RT about R23 thruster anode.... but you may find it does not require one. My R27/OB's bow thruster did not require one and the thruster was a Lewmar brand.

Just out of curiosity, how does it work that these types of thrusters don’t require zincs?


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[baz]

You may check with RT about R23 thruster anode.... but you may find it does not require one. My R27/OB's bow thruster did not require one and the thruster was a Lewmar brand.

Just out of curiosity, how does it work that these types of thrusters don’t require zincs?


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My presumption is that the Lewmar thruster is constructed so water does not contact any metal other than the SS washer and screw bolt used to secure the prop. If no metal is in contact with water then no need for an anode.

Note: the SS washer and screw bolt can exhibit weeping rust so that needs to be brushed and cleaned off periodically to allow the screw bolt to be removed when the prop needs replacing if it becomes damaged.

 

[BB marine]

As already stated the Lewmar Thruster does not require a anode because the gear housing is polymer (composite). The area of concern is the unprotected nut and prop shaft both being Stainless Steel sitting in salt water. Even if the materials are 316 SS the treaded areas are prone to corrode and Gall. I personally would use a brass nut and washer.This has been the method of outboard manufactures for years and manufactures recommendations of inboard propeller shafts. Use a brass nut (Manganese Bronze) on a stainless steel prop shaft. It reduces thread contact corrosion and helps reduce thread Galling. I would assume using a stainless nut is a cost savings for Lewmar. If using stainless to stainless in a underwater application a sealant type loctite (Blue 242 or 243) should be used to help insulate the thread to thread contact nut to shaft. Contrary to belief it is not only to lock the nut. It is to seal the water out of the thread contact area to reduce corrosion and galling.

 

[Squid]

As already stated the Lewmar Thruster does not require a anode because the gear housing is polymer (composite). The area of concern is the unprotected nut and prop shaft both being Stainless Steel sitting in salt water. Even if the materials are 316 SS the treaded areas are prone to corrode and Gall. I personally would use a brass nut and washer.This has been the method of outboard manufactures for years and manufactures recommendations of inboard propeller shafts. Use a brass nut (Manganese Bronze) on a stainless steel prop shaft. It reduces thread contact corrosion and helps reduce thread Galling. I would assume using a stainless nut is a cost savings for Lewmar. If using stainless to stainless in a underwater application a sealant type loctite (Blue 242 or 243) should be used to help insulate the thread to thread contact nut to shaft. Contrary to belief it is not only to lock the nut. It is to seal the water out of the thread contact area to reduce corrosion and galling.

Thanks for the info, this is very helpful.


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[Squid]

So, had the service done and going into it with a little knowledge courtesy of the ‘nuts was very helpful, thank you.

One thing did come up was the fact that there were no anodes on the trim tabs whatsoever. So it looks like I’ll be installing some.

I understand that this is a pretty easy procedure, and I’m a pretty handy guy albeit with little boating experience.

So, any trick to drilling under the water? I can surely keep the drill above the water line, just have the drill bit in the water. Is there any marine weirdness to be aware of? I’d rather not haul the boat out again and save the 250 bucks.

Related photo of the boat in the sling on the hard.

Thanks!

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[Brian B]

So, had the service done and going into it with a little knowledge courtesy of the ‘nuts was very helpful, thank you.

One thing did come up was the fact that there were no anodes on the trim tabs whatsoever. So it looks like I’ll be installing some.

I understand that this is a pretty easy procedure, and I’m a pretty handy guy albeit with little boating experience.

So, any trick to drilling under the water? I can surely keep the drill above the water line, just have the drill bit in the water. Is there any marine weirdness to be aware of? I’d rather not haul the boat out again and save the 250 bucks.

Related photo of the boat in the sling on the hard.

Thanks!

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If you were to use this type no drilling would be required. https://www.boatzincs.com/bennett-trim- ... gJG1PD_BwE

 

[Rwnorton]

For my education, why are you hauling a R23 in lieu of using a boat ramp? I was thinking that a boat of this size would normally be loaded and offloaded at a ramp.

 

[BB marine]

If you were to use this type no drilling would be required. https://www.boatzincs.com/bennett-trim- ... gJG1PD_BwE

I believe Ranger uses Lenco Trim Tabs now. If so the Bennett style anodes would not work. I would wait until the next time the boat is out of the water to drill and install tab anodes. I use titanium coated bits and cutting oil to cut thru 304 SS. Start by drilling 1/8" pilot and then drill to mounting screw size.

 

[jagizzi]

I can haul roundtrip, in an out, for $75 at Cap Sante in Anacortes. For that amount I don't have to put the trailer in the water, don't have to deal with launch ramp Yahoo's, don't have to worry about doing the Ranger Bump. Well worth the cost to haul in my opinion.

Jim

 

[Squid]

For my education, why are you hauling a R23 in lieu of using a boat ramp? I was thinking that a boat of this size would normally be loaded and offloaded at a ramp.

Well, I don’t have a trailer. Nor anywhere really to work on it on a trailer. Nor a vehicle that can tow it. Around these parts land and space is at a premium and everything is crazy expensive, including the limited services available for boat maintenance it would seem.


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[Squid]

If you were to use this type no drilling would be required. https://www.boatzincs.com/bennett-trim- ... gJG1PD_BwE

I believe Ranger uses Lenco Trim Tabs now. If so the Bennett style anodes would not work. I would wait until the next time the boat is out of the water to drill and install tab anodes. I use titanium coated bits and cutting oil to cut thru 304 SS. Start by drilling 1/8" pilot and then drill to mounting screw size.

I think I’ll do just that, wait for the next haul out. Thanks for the advice...


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