R23 Winterization Procedures List For My Boat

[tjiann]

Folks,

I am trying to get organized in my boat maintenance. As an important step, I put together a supplies checklist and set of procedures I plan to follow to winterize my new R23 (hopefully after a couple more runs on the Chesapeake Bay during the Thanksgiving break 😀 ). Anyway, I figured I would share it here in case it might help others in the group. I have this as a .pdf document (that is more nicely formatted) if anyone wants it emailed to them.

An important note, this is strictly the winterization of the various components to prevent damage from freezing. It does not include engine service procedures (I'm working on that separately), or the general maintenance check of the boat.

Regards,

Tim

Ranger R23 Winterization Checklist & Procedures

Engine (Yamaha F200 4-Stroke)

Supplies:
• Yamalube Fuel Stabilizer & Conditioner Plus (1 oz per gallon of gas)
• Engine Antifreeze (1 gallon)
• Bucket w/garden hose adaptor & short hose
• Yamaha Stor-Rite Engine Fogging Oil (Can)
• Rabbit ears flushing attachment
• Yamalube Silicon Engine Spray
• Yamaha Engine Paint

1. Make sure gas tank is 7/8 full
2. Add fuel stabilizer to tank (~75 oz)
3. Hook up rabbit ear flushing attachment to boat and hose
4. Run engine for 15 minutes to flush and distribute fuel stabilizer
5. Fog engine through intake silencer until engine smokes and nearly stalls
6. Shut off engine
7. Hook up antifreeze bucket/hose attachment to rabbit ear flushing attachment
8. Pour ~1 gallon of antifreeze in bucket
9. Turn on engine and run until pink antifreeze is coming out of cooling water hole
10. Rinse/clean engine with fresh water.
11. Touch up paint as needed
12. Coat engine with silicon spray

Water Lines, Pumps, Tanks & Head

Supplies:
• RV Antifreeze (3-5 gallons)
• Funnel
• Bucket w/garden hose adaptor & short hose

Shower Drain/Pump
1. Pour small amount of antifreeze in shower drain until pump activates and discharges pink
2. Check GPS sounding device located in shower compartment to make sure pink antifreeze level is sufficient

Potable Water Tank/Pump
1. Turn water pump on
2. Open kitchen sink faucet in middle position (i.e., draining both cold and hot water)
3. Open bathroom sink faucet in middle position (i.e., draining both cold and hot water) and discharge it into the toilet for a final cleaning prior to head winterization (run macerator pump prior to this step to ensure that the holding tank is empty)
4. Turn pump off
5. Hook up wash-down hose to hot water tank and drain remaining water from tank
6. By-pass the hot water tank by unhooking intake and output lines and connecting them together
7. Pour 2-3 gallons of RV antifreeze into water tank through funnel
8. Turn on water pump
9. Turn on kitchen and bathroom faucets until pink antifreeze is discharging from discharge hole in boat

Raw Water Wash-Down Pump
1. Close wash-down seacock
2. Pour antifreeze into seawater strainer basket
3. Turn on pump and open wash-down hose until pink discharges from hose
4. Open seacock

Air Conditioner/Heater Pump
1. Close air conditioner/heater/head seacock
2. Pour antifreeze in seawater strainer basket
3. Turn on air conditioner/heater (switch on inside panel) until pink discharges from discharge hole in boat
4. Turn off conditioner/heater switch
5. Open seacock

Head (Following Step 3 from Potable Water Tank/Pump above)
1. Turn on macerator to pump out fresh water rinse
2. Close head seacock
3. Pour antifreeze into seawater strainer basket
4. Manually pump until pink antifreeze appears in head
5. Open head seacock
7. Add another gallon of pink antifreeze directly to head
8. Turn on macerator pump until pink is discharging from discharge hole in boat
9. Turn off macerator pump
10. Close head

 

[wildbrian1]

Thanks for sharing! I would appreciate a .pdf version.
brianwild@hotmail.com

 

[Brian B]

If the engine is self draining in the vertical position (most are) the antifreeze you run through it will just drain out thus not really necessary. Does Yamaha recommend this step? I would also drain and replace the lower unit oil and inspect it for water. If water had entered the lower unit and it froze the lower unit could be damaged.

 

[tjiann]

If the engine is self draining in the vertical position (most are) the antifreeze you run through it will just drain out thus not really necessary. Does Yamaha recommend this step? I would also drain and replace the lower unit oil and inspect it for water. If water had entered the lower unit and it froze the lower unit could be damaged.

I'll let others weigh in on the engine antifreeze. I thought that was a pretty standard part of the process in order to coat all the inside part of the water circulation system with antifreeze and ensure all excess water is expelled.

With respect to the lower gear case unit, I agree, but to me that is part of the engine service protocols which I did not list here.

Thanks,

Tim

 

[Brian B]

If the engine is self draining in the vertical position (most are) the antifreeze you run through it will just drain out thus not really necessary. Does Yamaha recommend this step? I would also drain and replace the lower unit oil and inspect it for water. If water had entered the lower unit and it froze the lower unit could be damaged.

I'll let others weigh in on the engine antifreeze. I thought that was a pretty standard part of the process in order to coat all the inside part of the water circulation system with antifreeze and ensure all excess water is expelled.

With respect to the lower gear case unit, I agree, but to me that is part of the engine service protocols which I did not list here.

Thanks,

Tim

I would either speak to a certified Yamaha tech or call Yamaha for an accurate answer.
You certainly won't hurt anything by doing it but may be wasting a few $$$.

 

[jagizzi]

I would add that lowering to drain the engine and then returning it to the trailering position certainly would not work. I lowered mine and had it down for a couple of weeks, it started bothering me that i would forget it was down and would go to move the boat with the tractor and scrape the engine. So I raised it.

This week after some heavy rain I figured I would check and see if there was water in it and lowered it again. There was quite a bit of drainage that I figure must have been rainwater intrusion. Glad that I lowered it prior to a freeze.

Just a heads up to others, don't raise it back up after draining.