Lobo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2008
- Messages
- 290
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-248 C
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT2562J708
- Vessel Name
- Lobo
- MMSI Number
- 316013957
I have a 2008 R-25 and a dripless shaft -- as many of you do. I had to find out information about it this week the hard way as -- while doing maintenance in my engine compartment while at the dock -- slipped and my foot managed to break off the hose barb going into the top of the dripless shaft. The immediate result was a very beautiful 12" high fountain of sea water coming into my engine compartment. Fortunately the fountain was well within the capacity of the automatic bilge pumps.
The reasonably immediate solution was to plug the hole with a piece of dowelling, and this stopped the inflow. There isn't much pressure behind the flow -- the prop shaft is only a foot or so under water.
Further examination -- and trolling on the web -- brought the following conclusions:
1. The hose comes from the engine and forces water into the dripless shaft in the event that water from outside stops coming in (that would be the "fountain"). The dripless shaft needs cooling water.
2. The hose barb deteriorates over time, and it was fortunate that I found this out at the dock rather than on the water.
The repair is quite easy, made MUCH easier if the boat is out of the water. In my case I put it in our club slings and just lifted the boat until the prop shaft was visible above water. I removed what was left of the hose barb in the top of the dripless shaft housing and cut the last inch off the hose (so I could get at the barb). In order to keep the boat safe while I was off buying parts I scrounged a grease nipple from the club stores, installed it in the shaft housing, and let the boat back down in the water, still in slings.
I purchased two 1/8" HBarb x 1/4" MPT "fuel hose barbs (take a look at part number 033405-10 on the West Marine site to see what I am talking about; page 606 in the 2011 catalogue); and two new hose clamps. Back to the boat, raised it, and a quick 5 minute fix. I have a spare! Being anal I also picked up a brass plug to screw in "just in case".
If your boat has had lots of sea time, or if you see any sign of rust on the 4 clamps around the rubber hose of the shaft unit, plan on a replacement when you are next out of the water. My hose barb cost under a dollar, to "inspect and reassemble" is not financially worth it. Also replace the 4 clamps while you are down there.
On my boat the hose was just long enough to cut one inch off and still use it. Next time it's a "brass hose mender" and a 6" piece of hose as well.
While trolling the web on Dripless Shaft Seals I found only covers with bellows flexing. Mine looks like a piece of engine hose, no bellows flexing. The web sites said the bellows type should be replaced every 6 years. I think the hose on my boat is much stronger -- and as it doesn't flex -- "probably" will last far beyond 6 years.
If I could figure out how to attaché email photos, I would. Email me davidwtrace@gmail.com and I'll send you some photos'
Dave
"Lobo"
The reasonably immediate solution was to plug the hole with a piece of dowelling, and this stopped the inflow. There isn't much pressure behind the flow -- the prop shaft is only a foot or so under water.
Further examination -- and trolling on the web -- brought the following conclusions:
1. The hose comes from the engine and forces water into the dripless shaft in the event that water from outside stops coming in (that would be the "fountain"). The dripless shaft needs cooling water.
2. The hose barb deteriorates over time, and it was fortunate that I found this out at the dock rather than on the water.
The repair is quite easy, made MUCH easier if the boat is out of the water. In my case I put it in our club slings and just lifted the boat until the prop shaft was visible above water. I removed what was left of the hose barb in the top of the dripless shaft housing and cut the last inch off the hose (so I could get at the barb). In order to keep the boat safe while I was off buying parts I scrounged a grease nipple from the club stores, installed it in the shaft housing, and let the boat back down in the water, still in slings.
I purchased two 1/8" HBarb x 1/4" MPT "fuel hose barbs (take a look at part number 033405-10 on the West Marine site to see what I am talking about; page 606 in the 2011 catalogue); and two new hose clamps. Back to the boat, raised it, and a quick 5 minute fix. I have a spare! Being anal I also picked up a brass plug to screw in "just in case".
If your boat has had lots of sea time, or if you see any sign of rust on the 4 clamps around the rubber hose of the shaft unit, plan on a replacement when you are next out of the water. My hose barb cost under a dollar, to "inspect and reassemble" is not financially worth it. Also replace the 4 clamps while you are down there.
On my boat the hose was just long enough to cut one inch off and still use it. Next time it's a "brass hose mender" and a 6" piece of hose as well.
While trolling the web on Dripless Shaft Seals I found only covers with bellows flexing. Mine looks like a piece of engine hose, no bellows flexing. The web sites said the bellows type should be replaced every 6 years. I think the hose on my boat is much stronger -- and as it doesn't flex -- "probably" will last far beyond 6 years.
If I could figure out how to attaché email photos, I would. Email me davidwtrace@gmail.com and I'll send you some photos'
Dave
"Lobo"