R25 engine access

[MikeAndLorena]

We have a 2007 R25 w/ a 125 hp Yanmar. I recently had the raw water impeller changed, and it took 7 hours of labor to replace it and involved removing the alternator to get access. I recently saw a yachtworld add for an R25 that someone had added an access hatch in front of the cabin step. Have you heard of anyone doing that and would it help w/ access to the front of the engine? Any other ideas for improving engine access?

 

[scross]

I believe that you are referring to my new-to-me 2009 R25. See my album for two photos of the extended cut-out in front of the cabin step. I spoke to Andrew about this cut-out possibly reducing the strength in the area and he said there should not be any noticeable change in floor flex or strength. It doesn't take too much of an additional cut to make the access much easier. The previous owner estimated that there was just under 2" of flooring material removed. All that said, I haven't done an impeller change yet but it was pretty easy to get my arms down where everything is located. The trim pieces that were added to the step riser hide the cut-out area completely!

 

[nzfisher]

You might want to check this link to my photo album along with 2 or three pages after. I could not deal with the limited access. I can now change the impeller while on the water.

gallery2.php?g2_itemId=35222

 

[MikeAndLorena]

I believe that you are referring to my new-to-me 2009 R25. See my album for two photos of the extended cut-out in front of the cabin step. I spoke to Andrew about this cut-out possibly reducing the strength in the area and he said there should not be any noticeable change in floor flex or strength. It doesn't take too much of an additional cut to make the access much easier. The previous owner estimated that there was just under 2" of flooring material removed. All that said, I haven't done an impeller change yet but it was pretty easy to get my arms down where everything is located. The trim pieces that were added to the step riser hide the cut-out area completely!

Thanks for your suggestion. I think we'll go with making the whole step removable.

 

[MikeAndLorena]

You might want to check this link to my photo album along with 2 or three pages after. I could not deal with the limited access. I can now change the impeller while on the water.

gallery2.php?g2_itemId=35222

Thanks for your suggestion. I think we'll try it. The hardest part about owning our boat is that it is stored on the coast but we live in Montana. We have to take tools and spend a day or so in port doing modifications/repairs before we can head out. Any special tools or parts we need besides the latch and brackets?

 

[nzfisher]

This is a rambling mini description of the process of replacing access port with tread and riser combination-

In doing this it requires making a template, installing a new support across the existing cross piece (angled attached to the fiberglass when you get it right (5200 and screws), a new taller removable support on the port side that is covered with monkey fur and a lot of patience. Cut out is a long laborious stinky process that requires hearing protection and a plunge style vibrating cutout tool with multiple blades or the ability to sharpen them. I took a couple of days to do this to just ease nerve jangling noise of the process. Probably took 3 hours for cutout- too long to do a good job in one go. Monkey fur supplied by Ranger. I used the existing boss on the starboard side as a support which makes the stair the thickness of the tread plus some higher than the old stair so be aware of that. (You could no doubt modify the design to mitigate this with some thought). This extra height makes it more awkward to step in and out of the cabin. I used a very dense hardwood with a poly urethane finish (both sides) that has held up extremely well over time. Be aware also that this will take you some time and some tools to accomplish. Lots of cut and fitting depending on how high your standards are. You could probably use some kind of rubber gasket around the edges if you get tired of the cut and fit process. My goal was to make it so I could replace the impeller and belts while on the water as the boat is 10-20 miles out in the ocean 95% of the time I use it. Since you are in Montana where I have found skill levels high and labor cheap you might look for help from a local cabinet shop. You must be near Flathead lake. I have had my boat there, a great spot for boating. Hope this helps.

 

[captstu]

My R-25 Yanmar 4BY2 raw water impeller failed today. I have a spare on board but . . .

Even with the step and front panel removed, I could see the raw water pump, alternator and two belts clearly, but can't see the back of the pump where I must open the impeller cover and fit in a new impeller.

This thread implies it can be done on the water - maybe by someone much, much taller and thiner than I am . . . or, most likely, I don't have the trick.

Once I remove the step and front panel, what must I do to gain access to the impeller cover, bolts, and impeller.

Thank you.

And . . .

Even though I was pumping lots of water when I pre-departure checked, 10 minutes later, the engine was hot and the water lift muffler partially melted.

1. Who supplies, and P/H/ of the 4BY2 capable water lift muffler for teh 2010 R-25?

2. Has anyone (but me in a passed life) patched the muffler with glass and epoxy?

Thanks much - we got in ten lovely minutes today and hope to go again soon. /Stu

 

[Brian B]

This will help you change out the impeller.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3318

 

[rrobson1977]

I have the yanmar 2007 as well, yes you can not see it or get your head down there to look at it. However you actually can get used to changing it out blind. You can do it in about 20 minutes after the first time and get used to it

Here are my hints:
-after you open your engine hatch put a swimming noodle cut in half on the edge this will make it comfortable to hang over in a weird position
-Take a bunch of photos of the back of the housing with your phone where the impeller cover is to get used to how it looks in your head
-use 1/4 inch socket wrench with correct size socket (I think it was 7mm or so) so you can both ratchet and keep your finger on the bolt so it does not drop.
- put a pan under to ensure you do not loose your bolt.
-After you take the cover off take a bunch of photos of the impeller to get your head wrapped about the setup
-be sure to use the "new" impeller removal tool as well as replace the impeller with the threaded type for that tool
-lube the impeller with water/dish washing soap or ky jelly to get it in there easy
- be sure to take a picture after you feel the new o-ring in place to make sure its in the groove perfectly.

 

[captstu]

Rich,

I got to the last two items of your note - thank you - and on my boat the phrase, "then a miracle happened" seemed to show up.

I can't figure out how to hold the "O" in in place -even for a few seconds.

And, I can't compress the impeller enough to get it into the housing.

May I have a hint? The problem isn't access - I've folded into place and removed the pulley and housing - I can see the 4 bolt holes - the problem is strength - I just can't get the impeller in place.

Thanks much /Stu

 

[knotflying]

I use a zip tie. Put it around the impeller and bend the vanes as you keep tightening it. Then start to slip it into the housing and keep pulling the zip tie back. Once it is in about half way you can slip the tie off , slip the housing on and keep pushing it in using the housing while turning the pulley. .

 

[captstu]

Thank you all for your help.

With a pointer to the zip tie idea, I got the impeller back in and the engine pumping in about an hour of labor. Took another hour to clean up all the blood I lost.

Now I want to replace the water lift muffler - did the hoses as they showed signs of overheat.

What muffler do I need? Is there a fiberglass replacement?

Thanks /Stu

 

[captstu]

For those who may follow this thread with the same problem, The R-25 takes a Vetus NLP-90. According the the Vetus guy at the boat show, there is a newer model, the Vetus NLP-90 HD that won't melt if the impeller fails. It is the same size.

Thanks to all of you for your help. It took just over an hour after Jon offered me a tip about putting a zip tie around the impeller before fitting it.

The 3.5" hose from the engine to the muffler melted internally and I replaced that and the muffler. The engine never really overheated so there was no more damage.

Ordered a replacement impeller from Amazon, a Globe #100, for far they have sent me two empty boxes - but no impeller.

 

[doke01]

I also have a 2007 R25 w/ a 125 hp Yanmar. I am able to change the impeller by lying over the engine and accessing it from the rear. Accessing from the front must have been a horrible ordeal. If you angle yourself just right you can actually see the pump from the rear but don't be able to expect to work on it too. That was mostly done by feel. There are replacement finger screws out there that can make the job much easier since you won't need tools to remove the bolts.

I've had the same problem with exhaust hoses deteriorating over time. I'm currently on my 3rd hose. I think it is a combination of heat and acidity from the exhaust mixing with the water that is causing the failure. I am installing my third brand of exhaust hose in the spring so I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[KenMann]

I have a classic R 25 with a 110 HP Yanmar, and have just changed the impeller (accessing from the cockpit).
The above comments were all helpful, especially re taking pictures of the pump cover with your cell phone, but I found it easiest to take video, rather than still pictures, then pause the video.
Also, purchasing the "Speedseal" cover from the UK has the potential to make the job much easier, as it supplies 4 knurled thumb bolts which are tightened by hand (and can be further tightened with pliers) instead of using the original screws.
One problem was that the Speedseal cover was slightly too big by about 1/4 in, in one dimension, and it would not clear a hosepipe, but filing the brass cover plate is, I think, going to solve that problem.
Cheers from
Kind of Blue