R25 Winterize for winter use - Anchor Question - locking Lazarettes

[DennisL]

Hi There,
3 questions for the group! First one is my boat is in Shilshole Marina. Its a 2024 R25 OB and Im hoping to use the boat all winter long. I saw some threads about cutting your Pex so you can isolate inside water and outside water to outside shower for winterization - I was wondering if anyone with a similar boat has run it through the winter and could help explain to me what I should be doing to be prepared? I purchased a nice dehumidifier and small marine heater for the boat to leave onboard and running while on shore power, but I want to make sure Im covering all my bases and not messing anything up.

Second question: Anchor. I would like to replace my anchor based on the threads Ive seen around more confidence while anchoring. It seems the Rocna 10 is the most recommended - but my question is will it fit on the R25? The shaft of it looks a bit long but Ive not gotten the tape measure out to confirm. I dont want to create a massive project, just wanted to get a bit of a bigger anchor onboard.

Third question:
Does anyone have any tips for adding locks to the Lazarettes onboard? Likely not critical, but I am hoping to store an little outboard for the dinghy in there and would love to have it locked up. Worst case I can mount something inside the compartment and lock or cable inside, but id much prefer just locking the entire compartment!

Thanks so much!
Dennis

2024 R25OB
Nancy Ann

 

[Submariner]

Does anyone have any tips for adding locks to the Lazarettes onboard? Likely not critical, but I am hoping to store an little outboard for the dinghy in there and would love to have it locked up. Worst case I can mount something inside the compartment and lock or cable inside, but id much prefer just locking the entire compartment!

Remember, locks are for honest people.. these will likely keep the average passer-by theif away. But if someone wants what's in your laz's, they could probably shove a screw driver in there with force, and open it. Also note, I believe they all come with the same key. So my key would open someone else's lock.

Hatch Locks Upgrade

Hatch Locks | LetsGoChannelSurfing

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[DennisL]

Remember, locks are for honest people.. these will likely keep the average passer-by theif away. But if someone wants what's in your laz's, they could probably shove a screw driver in there with force, and open it. Also note, I believe they all come with the same key. So my key would open someone else's lock.

Hatch Locks Upgrade

Hatch Locks | LetsGoChannelSurfing

www.letsgochannelsurfing.com

Thank you! Noted on the reality of the locks - but Im mostly looking to keep people honest!

 

[croakz]

I had a Rocna 10 on your boat, fits fine. You just need a longer bolt for the Rocna anchor guard.

 

[Robert]

Dennis, we have a newish R23 that we winterized and used last winter. I have some documentation I need to find and will send it to you. It may be a day or two.
Bob
Ps, the Mantis 13# M1 fits perfectly with no bow roller changes.

 

[DennisL]

Dennis, we have a newish R23 that we winterized and used last winter. I have some documentation I need to find and will send it to you. It may be a day or two.
Bob
Ps, the Mantis 13# M1 fits perfectly with no bow roller changes.

Thanks Bob! Id love to see what you did! Appreciate the follow up and the note on the Mantis.

 

[Robert]

Dennis,
Below is how I winterized my R23 last year in Louisville, Ky.

R-23 Winterization

1. Pump out blackwater tank.​

1. Fresh Water System:​

Refer to “As The Prop Turns” for compressed air components to winterize water system using compressed air.
Run freshwater tank dry. Turn freshwater pump off.
Start air compressor and adjust discharge to no more than 20 psi. Connect airline to freshwater pump inlet.
Cycle hot and cold faucets at each sink until all water removed.
Open drain valve on water heater and cycle faucets until water heater is drained. Make sure drain valve is at the 6:00 position. Sponge dry bilge area. Close drain valve.

1. Air Conditioner / Raw Water System:​

Make the antifreeze bucket using a five-gallon bucket, bulkhead fitting, ¾" id plastic tubing, shut-off valve and male hose thread adapter.
Make a valved compressed air adapter with like the fresh water but with a female hose thread adapter.
Add tee fittings downstream of both ac and raw water strainers. ¾" nylon barb x barb x MPT with brass male hose thread adapter and cap.
Run AC system for a few minutes, then turn off.
Connect “bucket” to AC tee fitting. Add 3 gallons of RV antifreeze to bucket, open valve and observe antifreeze flowing out through the strainer. You may have to lift the bucket. Close thru hull valve.
Run AC system until antifreeze discharge is observed.
Turn off AC at thermostat.
Disconnect bucket from tee fitting and install cap on tee fitting.
Clean strainer and evacuate water with shop vac.
Save remaining anti-freeze to winterize sink drains, shower sump, bilge pumps, etc.

1. Raw Water System:​

Connect compressed air system to raw tee fitting. Purge water from tee fitting to thru hull valve using compressed air. Close thru hull valve.
With Jabsco toilet in wet bowl position purge water toward toilet using compressed air.
Place Jabsco toilet to dry bowl position.
Open raw water valve on transom, turn on raw water pump and purge water using compressed air.
Drain raw water washdown hose.
Clean strainer and evacuate any water with shop vac.

1. Jabsco Toilet / Macerator:​

Add 50% solution of automotive antifreeze to toilet bowl and pump dry. Repeat until about two gallons of antifreeze has been introduced. Do not use RV antifreeze as this will cause issues with Jabsco components, especially the joker valve. Antifreeze can be pumped out in the spring.
Open macerator valve and energize pump at helm. Run until antifreeze discharge is observed.
Close macerator valve.
Tape toilet flush valve to dry bowl only.
Leave a jug of antifreeze mixture on boat for light usage during winter.

1. Shower Sump / Sinks:​

Open sump top and clean filter if required.
Add RV antifreeze to shower drain until pump energizes and anti-freeze discharge is observed.
Pull fuse from shower sump at 24/7 fuse block, place in zip lock bag and label. Tape or pin bag to wall in cave.
Add RV anti-freeze to sink drains until discharge is observed.

1. Main Bilge Bilge Pumps:​

Add RV anti-freeze to bilge and energize pumps until discharge is observed.
Evacuate any spillage with shop vac.

1. Cabin:​

Turn off refrigerator, remove any ice, allow to defrost, and dispose of any melted water.
Remove any items that could freeze or should be taken home.

 

[DennisL]

This is amazing - Thank you so much for taking the time to put this together! I Hope it helps way more than just me! Really appreciate it. This community is seriously the best.

 

[Bob&Jilly]

Dennis,
Below is how I winterized my R23 last year in Louisville, Ky.

R-23 Winterization

1. Pump out blackwater tank.​
2. Fresh Water System:​

Refer to “As The Prop Turns” for compressed air components to winterize water system using compressed air.
Run freshwater tank dry. Turn freshwater pump off.
Start air compressor and adjust discharge to no more than 20 psi. Connect airline to freshwater pump inlet.
Cycle hot and cold faucets at each sink until all water removed.
Open drain valve on water heater and cycle faucets until water heater is drained. Make sure drain valve is at the 6:00 position. Sponge dry bilge area. Close drain valve.

1. Air Conditioner / Raw Water System:​

Make the antifreeze bucket using a five-gallon bucket, bulkhead fitting, ¾" id plastic tubing, shut-off valve and male hose thread adapter.
Make a valved compressed air adapter with like the fresh water but with a female hose thread adapter.
Add tee fittings downstream of both ac and raw water strainers. ¾" nylon barb x barb x MPT with brass male hose thread adapter and cap.
Run AC system for a few minutes, then turn off.
Connect “bucket” to AC tee fitting. Add 3 gallons of RV antifreeze to bucket, open valve and observe antifreeze flowing out through the strainer. You may have to lift the bucket. Close thru hull valve.
Run AC system until antifreeze discharge is observed.
Turn off AC at thermostat.
Disconnect bucket from tee fitting and install cap on tee fitting.
Clean strainer and evacuate water with shop vac.
Save remaining anti-freeze to winterize sink drains, shower sump, bilge pumps, etc.

1. Raw Water System:​

Connect compressed air system to raw tee fitting. Purge water from tee fitting to thru hull valve using compressed air. Close thru hull valve.
With Jabsco toilet in wet bowl position purge water toward toilet using compressed air.
Place Jabsco toilet to dry bowl position.
Open raw water valve on transom, turn on raw water pump and purge water using compressed air.
Drain raw water washdown hose.
Clean strainer and evacuate any water with shop vac.

1. Jabsco Toilet / Macerator:​

Add 50% solution of automotive antifreeze to toilet bowl and pump dry. Repeat until about two gallons of antifreeze has been introduced. Do not use RV antifreeze as this will cause issues with Jabsco components, especially the joker valve. Antifreeze can be pumped out in the spring.
Open macerator valve and energize pump at helm. Run until antifreeze discharge is observed.
Close macerator valve.
Tape toilet flush valve to dry bowl only.
Leave a jug of antifreeze mixture on boat for light usage during winter.

1. Shower Sump / Sinks:​

Open sump top and clean filter if required.
Add RV antifreeze to shower drain until pump energizes and anti-freeze discharge is observed.
Pull fuse from shower sump at 24/7 fuse block, place in zip lock bag and label. Tape or pin bag to wall in cave.
Add RV anti-freeze to sink drains until discharge is observed.

1. Main Bilge Bilge Pumps:​

Add RV anti-freeze to bilge and energize pumps until discharge is observed.
Evacuate any spillage with shop vac.

1. Cabin:​

Turn off refrigerator, remove any ice, allow to defrost, and dispose of any melted water.
Remove any items that could freeze or should be taken home.

 

[pbjellythyme]

This is amazing - Thank you so much for taking the time to put this together! I Hope it helps way more than just me! Really appreciate it. This community is seriously the best.

Thank you, Robert! I’m taking notes on this as well!

 

[Bob&Jilly]

These are some suggestions I found .​

​

✅ 1.​

Since you’re in-water, you can’t run antifreeze through the lower unit like on land. But you still need to protect it.


Steps:

• Flush the engine thoroughly with fresh water (using flush muffs or a flush port).
• Fog the engine (check Yamaha or Mercury OB manual — usually done via fogging oil sprayed into the intake while running).
• Stabilize fuel with marine-grade fuel stabilizer (Star Tron, Sta-Bil, etc.), then run engine for 10-15 minutes to circulate.
• Trim engine fully down to allow water to drain from the lower unit. This is critical. Don’t leave it tilted up — trapped water can freeze and crack the casing.
• Grease all fittings (zerc fittings on tilt/steering/prop).
• Change lower unit gear oil — look for signs of water (milky fluid). Water in there can freeze and crack the lower unit.

Do not run antifreeze through the engine cooling system while it's in the water — that’s only done when hauled.

---

✅ 2.​

Your fresh water, raw water washdown, and waste systems all need to be winterized. You must replace water with antifreeze.


Steps:

• Drain all water tanks (fresh, hot water heater, etc.).
• Bypass or drain the hot water heater if possible.
• Use non-toxic marine antifreeze (pink RV antifreeze rated to -50°F or lower).
• Pump antifreeze through:
  
  • Freshwater system: Turn on each faucet (hot and cold), shower, transom shower, etc. until pink comes out.
  • Raw water washdown system, if installed.
  • Toilet: Pump pink antifreeze through head until it goes to the holding tank.
  • Holding tank: Add some antifreeze to the holding tank to protect residual liquid and valves.

---

✅ 3.​

Steps:

• Ensure all bilge pumps work. Test float switches.
• Pour a few cups of pink antifreeze into each bilge compartment so that pumps won’t freeze.
• If you have automatic systems (like high-water bilge alarms or washdown pumps), make sure they're off unless necessary.

---

✅ 4.​

• Consider using a safe marine-rated dehumidifier or engine compartment heater (e.g., Xtreme Heater, BoatSafe).
• Install a bilge heater or cabin heater (marine-grade) if freezing temps are common.
• Ensure you have shore power to support heaters safely.

NEVER use household space heaters unattended.

 

[Robert]

Why not just run antifreeze through all water systems like we do in RVs? Then there would be no need for an air compressor.

With air you will never have antifreeze in the fresh water system.