R25c Repower - QSD to BetaMarine

[Seakr25]

Well the repower is complete on my 08' R25 Classic. There is some history in previous posts from before the site move if you're interested in looking into them. I did say however that I would report back to the group. So here I am reporting back!

Previous engine was QSD 130HP, was already the second engine in the boat as it came with a 150HP engine. Lots of issues previous owners tried to address with the 130 swap but let's just say the work was sub par and done wrong.

I ended up choosing a Betamarine 62T which is a 2.4l mechanical IDI engine putting out 62hp along with a new matching gearbox shaft and prop. This engine substantially reduced total HP down to 62 from 130 ( 150 OEM ) has reduced top end speed a LOT. As this was a boat intended for use in SE Alaska and 95% or more of its time is used cruising at hull speed we only need to make 6-7kts to be quite happy this was not a major issue. It does 6-7kts now very happily and at a nice and quiet 1700-2000rpm and 1.5 or less fuel burn pr/hr based on current estimations. Ill know more when I install a proper fuel flow meter this winter to get exact numbers.

Max RPM of 2800 I am seeing 9kts. The bow lifts and you can tell were the extra HP would help to get a few extra kts. Even with the 130hp engine I never saw over 13kts in the past and that felt like I was going to toss a rod through the hull on that poor QSD.

I am happy and have no plans to sell the boat in the next 15-20~ years as it's perfect for the needs of my family. If I need something faster eventually I will add to the fleet but right now my cruising is slow and I like to put days between myself and heading back to the office lol.

If anyone has any questions I am happy to answer them. It was quite the project and took over a year of planning and install work but its finally wrapped up. Hope some of this info helps someone else in the forum. It was scary going with a Betamarine as I had seen ZERO info about someone trying to re-power a ranger with one. It wont win any races but it sure looks and sounds good in the tug! I even custom ordered it in green ... which I think gives it a nice old fashioned feel.

Also I am in IT and deal with computers in some form or another daily ... so removing any computer from the weekend causing is ... nice. I like an old fashioned Diesel honestly.

To each their own ... happy boating everyone. See you on the water.

 

[Brian John]

Any issues with fitting the new diesel in with the exhaust and seawater strainer, did the motor mounts match up?

Any additionally photos of the swap?

 

[Seakr25]

Any issues with fitting the new diesel in with the exhaust and seawater strainer, did the motor mounts match up?

Any additionally photos of the swap?

The engine mounts did not line up fore and aft exactly but a bit of glass work solved that issue. Honestly they were off less than an inch but It was nice to clean up the mounting points on the stringers. Width was spot on but I knew that since I spent a LOT of time measuring and going over technical drawings on every engine on the market today. I did have to have a small portion of the stringer modified to clear the new bell housing but it was minimal and there was already some clearance in the same area for the QSD that was removed. I will also note that I went with a shallow sump oil pan as an option on the beta since there would have been very little room for clearance. It may have fit without but with the shallow sump it was guaranteed.

I will say the exhaust was easier and looks much better than stock. The engine exhaust outlet is on the same side as the muffler and exhaust hose (port) now and does not cross the engine bay as it had originally from the factory. Similar to how a yanmar would be actually. It's quite nice and compact and opened up a LOT of working space for me. I did have a custom goose neck manufactured to get as much rise as I could however from the turbo outlet. This was not the neck offered by beta and it ran me around $700. I also had an anti siphon loop installed in the raw water dump to the exhaust. This was done as cheap insurance to avoid future engine damage from a siphon event and was not in the stock configuration.

Raw water intake is now on the starboard side and does not loop around to the port as it did from the factory. Again this reduces hoses in the engine compartment and makes it a LOT cleaner. I also went with a rear PTO raw water pump option from beta so the impeller swap can now be done from the rear side of the engine. This seemed like a good choice and is typically done for V drive setups. Since there is very little clearance forward of the engine this made a lot of sense for this install.

I also optioned out a remote oil filter unit so I could locate the oil filter on a bulkhead for easy service.

A new no tapered shaft was installed along with a split coupler as there is very little clearance to remove the OEM tapered coupler for dripless service. Since I went with a PSS dripless shaft seal also, I wanted to the ability to remove it and service without removing the engine. This was the only way in my opinion since there is VERY limited space in this compartment. ..... what I would have given for another 6-8 inches! .... but we have to work with what we have on these boats.

Here are a few more photos of the install work mid process for your reference.

 

[AGLyme]

Well done !

 

[Brian John]

Looks and sounds like a nice retrofit.

 

[doke01]

How hard was it to pull the old motor? Do you have any pictures of that? I thought I might have to cut out under the door if I ever did this, but I see that you didn't need to.

 

[William Sanborn]

I am thinking the QDS had electronic throttle and shift. Did you need to add mechanical throttle and shift with one lever or did you split them?

 

[Seakr25]

How hard was it to pull the old motor? Do you have any pictures of that? I thought I might have to cut out under the door if I ever did this, but I see that you didn't need to.

Slide the QSD rearward after disconnecting shaft, lift engine and gearbox near vertical from the tail end, out she will come. Not easy but doable. Helps to have a forklift.

 

[Seakr25]

I am thinking the QDS had electronic throttle and shift. Did you need to add mechanical throttle and shift with one lever or did you split them?

the QSD has electronic throttle connection on the port side of engine and gearbox has cable shift ( ZF25A ) both are morse type cable from the helm however. No changes needed there. I did however replace both the throttle and shift cables with the repower as they were getting a little stiff.

 

[BigSir]

Well the repower is complete on my 08' R25 Classic. There is some history in previous posts from before the site move if you're interested in looking into them. I did say however that I would report back to the group. So here I am reporting back!

Previous engine was QSD 130HP, was already the second engine in the boat as it came with a 150HP engine. Lots of issues previous owners tried to address with the 130 swap but let's just say the work was sub par and done wrong.

I ended up choosing a Betamarine 62T which is a 2.4l mechanical IDI engine putting out 62hp along with a new matching gearbox shaft and prop. This engine substantially reduced total HP down to 62 from 130 ( 150 OEM ) has reduced top end speed a LOT. As this was a boat intended for use in SE Alaska and 95% or more of its time is used cruising at hull speed we only need to make 6-7kts to be quite happy this was not a major issue. It does 6-7kts now very happily and at a nice and quiet 1700-2000rpm and 1.5 or less fuel burn pr/hr based on current estimations. Ill know more when I install a proper fuel flow meter this winter to get exact numbers.

Max RPM of 2800 I am seeing 9kts. The bow lifts and you can tell were the extra HP would help to get a few extra kts. Even with the 130hp engine I never saw over 13kts in the past and that felt like I was going to toss a rod through the hull on that poor QSD.

I am happy and have no plans to sell the boat in the next 15-20~ years as it's perfect for the needs of my family. If I need something faster eventually I will add to the fleet but right now my cruising is slow and I like to put days between myself and heading back to the office lol.

If anyone has any questions I am happy to answer them. It was quite the project and took over a year of planning and install work but its finally wrapped up. Hope some of this info helps someone else in the forum. It was scary going with a Betamarine as I had seen ZERO info about someone trying to re-power a ranger with one. It wont win any races but it sure looks and sounds good in the tug! I even custom ordered it in green ... which I think gives it a nice old fashioned feel.

Also I am in IT and deal with computers in some form or another daily ... so removing any computer from the weekend causing is ... nice. I like an old fashioned Diesel honestly.

To each their own ... happy boating everyone. See you on the water.

 

[BigSir]

I am the happy owner of a 2009 RT25 classic with a 4BY2 150 that had 1200 hours. The motor broke when the oil drained out of the loose oil filter. I have removed and inspected the engine and there is rust in #3.
The Yanmar repair service I contacted won’t repair it, I can’t find another motor.
In now looking at replacement with a Volvo or smaller engine which as I can gather would work. I’m in over my head to say the least. I was going to sell my boat now I’m spending many many thousands of dollars just to get it running so I can put it on the market.
Let me just say that I had 8 weeks in the boat cruising around the Salish Sea and Gulf Islands in 2023 and it was perfect. Over 200 hours run time and I never had to plug in for 8 weeks.

 

[Seakr25]

I am the happy owner of a 2009 RT25 classic with a 4BY2 150 that had 1200 hours. The motor broke when the oil drained out of the loose oil filter. I have removed and inspected the engine and there is rust in #3.
The Yanmar repair service I contacted won’t repair it, I can’t find another motor.
In now looking at replacement with a Volvo or smaller engine which as I can gather would work. I’m in over my head to say the least. I was going to sell my boat now I’m spending many many thousands of dollars just to get it running so I can put it on the market.
Let me just say that I had 8 weeks in the boat cruising around the Salish Sea and Gulf Islands in 2023 and it was perfect. Over 200 hours run time and I never had to plug in for 8 weeks.

Tough situation, I’m sure there is another engine out there that will suit your needs however if you have decided to fix it, which is a good choice in my opinion. I wish I had 8 weeks of good cruising in my ranger to reflect on honestly but it’s been a pain since near the first month of ownership for me. With a fresh repower im hoping that changes for a while at least lol. I wish you the best of luck, I’m sure you will get it figured out. If you love the boat and plan to keep it the repower is worth it in my personal opinion. If you’re selling it the next owner will be the one that benefits also only my opinion . Choices ….

 

[Niels Hansen]

I have just pulled my QSD 2.0L VM Motori/mercruiser and disassembled it after my 2009 25ft classic ranger was flooded. I was lucky there was no damage just some clean up. for what it is worth, remove the transmission first.The engine is reassembled and just about finished. I cannot figure out how to time the camshaft. I can bring the crankshaft to TDC but there are no index markings on the cam pulley. If I remember correctly you had installed a new timing belt on your old 2 liter 130 hp QSD Mercruiser. How do you know where to position you cam shaft for correct valve timing ? my 150 hp QSD is a new 2024 engine. I am hoping the procedure is the same. For what it is worth, when it is finished I am going to put it up for sale for $7,000. It comes with a new transmission and new improved exhaust system.

 

[Seakr25]

I had a local diesel mechanic time the crank to cams as I was unsure of my own ability for that job after such an extensive tear down and crank / lower end overhaul …. I believe they mentioned they made a special alignment tool for the job per spec of shop manual as the oem tool was back ordered. I’ll see if I made some notes but not 100% sure.