R25sc Charger invertor replacement

nzfisher

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2009
Messages
592
Fluid Motion Model
C-26
Vessel Name
Swims with Tuna
My R25sc 2011 charger /inverted seems to be past it’s use by date. I am really not interested in a complex replacement retiring job. I am thinking of replacing the 1500 pro mariner model with the newer 2000 watt model. Does anyone know if the cabling is identical to avoid the recabling issues otherwise involved? One would think they are the same but hard to know. Hoping a tugnutter has already done this so I can stand on the shoulders of their knowledge. Thanks
 
I believe they are the same. The size may be different though. According to the manual I have it references all models from the 1500 watt to the 2500 watt. I replaced mine with the same 1500 watt. I never really needed anything more than that. Also keep in mind that the larger wattage will result in faster battery drainage if using more wattage. I also thing the charger amperage is the same regardless of model so you gain nothing there. Unless there is a specific reason to go with more wattage, keep it simple and go with the same. It is my understanding that Promariner has discontinued the Combi, but there seems to be plenty out there. What I dislike most is the automatic transfer switch. If that goes you cant get 110 power. And if while at the dock you lose 110V power it goes automatically into inverter mode and if away you come back to dead batteries. If mine were to go out again I am going with a separate charger and a separate inverter with a manual transfer switch. A bit more complex to do the change, but a fail safe install.
 
I switched to a Victron multiplus because I can adjust the input and output to control the wattage. I have a generator that is 2.7 Mase and do not want to overload the generator because the Victron wants to suck more watts that are allowed. Hence by adjusting I can limit the draw on the generator. I will require a new control panel and a run of wire, but the existing battery cable is usable.
 
I'm on the same page as Mike. My boat came with a ProMariner 1220P and no inverter. I wanted to have an inverter with higher wattage and pure sine wave. This option was not offered with the factory installed unit. The thought of the combined inverter/charger sounded good." Fool prove " The more I looked into it "more to go wrong". I went with a independent inverter Kisea SWXFR-1220 This unit does have a transfer switch but I don't use it. I did not wire a 120V input. The reason for using this unit is I did not want a plug-in connection (inverter to the boats 120V breaker panel) I wanted a hard wire connection at the inverter. This unit is has worked well for us. The installation required 2/0 cables (factory 1 AWG) and larger fuses compared to the factory. The 120V cable required was 10/3 triplex marine cable. The cables installed in the boat were 12/3 triplex marine cable.

To answer your question. If installing "in like kind" or another unit. Never say it is plug and play. Yes the installation has worked fine for you for 9 years and you have not had an issue. To say it meets or exceeds ABYC and Promariner installation guidelines is an assumption unless proved. The best approach is to purchase the unit you feel will match your needs. Review the installation guidelines. There will be sections of the install that may refer you to ABYC recommendations for wire type, wire size and fuses..... compare these recommendations and guidelines to what you see in the boat. If the original install matches or exceeds the installation requiernments of the unit you purchased the install is easy. If it doesn't I would not recommend installing the unit just because it worked for 9 years. Install it based on manufactures requirements

Rangers Tugs and Cutwaters are in my opinion high quality boats. The manufacturing requirements are set for quality. People build boats. People take short cuts people make mistakes. There are to short comings that I have come to know with Rangers and Cutwaters, Electrical and plumbing.

The number one cause of fires in boats is electrical. When it comes to 120V or 12V systems in a boat, plug and play installs should never be done unless a full inspection of the system is done. In this statement I'm not referring to the Fluid motion products. I am referring to all manufactures.
 
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