R27-OB Fan switch wiring

[Mark_H]

I have a 2022 R27-OB LE and would like to add a bilge blower for bilge ventilation.
The 8-switch panel at the helm has a switch labeled "Fan" with a purple/white wire leading from it.
This wire goes to a connector behind the helm and then to somewhere else on the boat.
I would like to use this switch and wiring for the bilge blower I want to add.
So, I need to know were the end of this wire goes to on the boat.

Also, where do you recommend installing the blower vent outlet?
The best place I can think of is high on the transom and just to port of the ski pylon.
It it ok to cut a 3" hole there for the vent?

 

[emtlibby]

Hey Mark,

Im in Kingston, NH with a 2021 R25-OB LE.... MaiTai.

Is the switch to the far right or left of the panel? Do you have 2 ACC switches? Wondering if someone replaced a switch. That said, you may have an easier time with a remote relay, since your 12v sources are close to the bilge. The 8 switch panel is fed from one of the house fuse blocks accessible from the head. I've also found that Ranger's electrical diagrams aren't always accurate, nor do they indicate where the "runs" are.

Also, why the bilge blower?

 

[BB marine]

I believe the fan switch powers the helm fans. The switch at the dash labeled fans should power the two fans that are used for clearing condensate off the windshield.

There should be blower fuses installed for an optional generator installation. This is one of Fluid Motions cost saving ideas. Diesel or gas powered boats the try at all cost to not install a true ventilation system in a boat. I struggled with this idea when I owned a Cutwater with a diesel engine. There was no exhaust ventilation or intake ventilation into the machinery compartment. There was no battery compartment ventilation. The thought was there are enough nooks and granny's for air to get into and out of the compartment between the cockpit sole liner and the hull. This may be true but it does not create air movement. If there is not a designated flow of air in ( intake vent ) and a designated flow for air out ( exhaust vent ) the air and moisture become stagnant causing mold and in a diesel powered vessel soot. If a battery were to vent hydrogen the hope is the gases escape through the "nooks and crannies" .

A gas powered boat is another subject. Gas powered outboards have different rules when it comes to ventilation. Gas powered outboards is a broad range of boats. When building a boat that is designed for cruising with a full living space, gas stove, electric hot water heater, inverter, multiple battery banks, sleeping quarters, many electrical devises on board that all sit above a 150 gallon fuel tank. Would you design the bilge ventilation the same way you would if it were a 18' runabout? There are fuel lines under that deck, fuel connections under that deck, electrical devises under that deck and there is Gasoline under that deck. Remember the only way for air to get in or out of the fuel tank compartment is through the nooks and cranny's at the top of the cockpit liner, under the gunnel. There is no true ventilation system that is bringing outside air into the bilge area to its lowest point and exhausting the air out. Gasoline is heavier than air. If there is a fuel leak, at anyone of the many connections to a 150 gallon tank the gas fumes have no way of escaping. The fumes sink and collect at the lowest point. The argument is well there is no engine in that compartment so ABYC say's we don't need ventilation !!!

ABYC recommendation
d. Natural Ventilation - Each compartment, not open to the atmosphere, must be provided with a natural ventilation system, if it:
(1) contains a permanently installed gasoline engine;

We have that covered with our nooks and cranny ventilation its a all in one intake and exhaust. I don't think it works that way!! But it does there are hundreds and hundreds of Cutwaters and Ranger Tugs on the water proofing it does! It does until the holes in the cheese line up!

My question is why not install a true ventilation system in a boat that is designed for cruising. Why not ventilate the compartments for safety, and help keep the compartments free from mold and moisture? They have a ventilation system if a generator is installed. There is a intake and exhaust for the generator to maintain a proper operating temperature ( Originally they did not install this and they had many issues with breaker trips and start condenser failures) They also install a intake vent and a exhaust blower vent both with 12V power blowers. Why not install this with or without a generator? Or why not install outside vents for a passive ventilation system intakes on port side exhaust on starboard side? Rangers and Cutwaters are pricy boats. They are nice boats, some would argue worth the price! They must be because they are selling! Do you think the added cost of installing a true ventilation system would cause them to be over priced and reduce sales ?

Also, where do you recommend installing the blower vent outlet?
The best place I can think of is high on the transom and just to port of the ski pylon.
It it ok to cut a 3" hole there for the vent?

There are locations designated for blower installations in the owners manual under options. The vents are just behind the pilot house bulkhead below the gunnel on the hull.

When I owned my Cutwater C26 I found the compartment temperatures well exceeded the ABYC recommendations. I spoke with Fluid Motion about this and they believed it was not an issue. Boats don't need ventilation in the compartments ! I disagreed and designed my own system which proved to keep the compartments drier and cooler.
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[emtlibby]

Brian,

You raise some excellent points.

I had a bad solar controller, that was cooking the batteries, and tripping my CO alarm inside the boat---- H off gassing.. Another reason I guess to add some good ventilation.

 

[Mark_H]

emtlibby and Brian,

Thanks for your replies.

As Brian explained, bilge ventilation is a good thing for several reasons, so I want to add some.
Also, several years ago on a different outboard powered boat I was boarded for a Vessel Safely Check.
My boat passed and they gave me the sticker, but also wrote a recommendation to add bilge blowers.
Sooner or later that my happen again, so I want to be ready.

The switch panels on the R27 are different from the R25. Similar function, but different arrangement.
The "Fan" switch I am referring to is the second from the bottom on the panel to port of the helm.
I bought my boat new, so no switches were changed or moved as far as I know.
This switch does not do anything on my Luxury Edition with LifePO house bank and A/C.
This switch may do something on the Northwest Edition with the diesel cabin heater.
But, the switch and wiring are there, so I want to use them if possible.
I just need to know where the other end of the purple/white wire is.

The Owner's Manual does show vents on the starboard gunnel, but these do not exist on the Luxury Edition,
and I do not see a way to access that area on my boat.

The Accessories 2 diagram in the Owner's Manual shows a 20A fuse feeding a switch and two motors.
These might be the blower motors for the Northwest Edition. They do not exist on my boat.
Also, the manual does not show the location of this switch or the two motors.

I am now wondering if I should install one blower, or two?
Is there a standard based on bilge volume or number of engines or something else?

 

[BB marine]

The switch panels on the R27 are different from the R25. Similar function, but different arrangement.
The "Fan" switch I am referring to is the second from the bottom on the panel to port of the helm.
I bought my boat new, so no switches were changed or moved as far as I know.
This switch does not do anything on my Luxury Edition with LifePO house bank and A/C.
This switch may do something on the Northwest Edition with the diesel cabin heater.
But, the switch and wiring are there, so I want to use them if possible.
I just need to know where the other end of the purple/white wire is.

purple/white wired to a switch located at the helm, Breaker sub panel with switches that includes 8 switches one labeled Fans is for the helm defrost fans. These fans have been installed in Rangers and Cutwaters for a number of years. I had them installed in my Cutwater and I have seen them installed in Ranger tug models also. They were not an option based on the model boat ordered. They either discontinued installing the fans in 2022 and left the switch panel, forgot to install the fans in your boat, or the fans are there and the breaker or fuse is bad and the fans are not working. PURPLE/WHITE wire are to power the dash defroster fans. The wire size is 16ga. may be marginal to power a bilge blower located in the cockpit bilge area where you would most likely install the blowers. Max length for 10 amps or less with a 16 gauge wire is 7'. Most small blowers draw about 4 amps so the 16gauge would be marginal for this application with a long wire run. Presuming that you would want a blower large enough to move air to ventilate the complete compartment and bilge this may take two 150 CFM blowers 3" or a 250 CFM 4" which which would pushing it with the 16 gauge wire run. It would work but marginal if the wire length is much over 7'

The Owner's Manual does show vents on the starboard gunnel, but these do not exist on the Luxury Edition,
and I do not see a way to access that area on my boat.

There are areas on both port and starboard side that the factory installs vents. Port side is for ventilating the generator sound box. Starboard side is for ventilating the bilge when a generator is installed. My question has always been why don't they just install the vents and use them for a passive ventilation system when a generator is not installed. The boat should have a minimum of that anyway with 150 gallons of gas on board and all the equipment and living space.

You would be surprised how much access there is to getting at areas of the boat. There are many panels that are removable. If you look at the photos from my album. I removed the convection oven to gain access to the hull area where I cut my hole for a 5" vent. Look at the area where the vents are located on the drawing. There is something that can be removed to get to that area. Side panels installed are usually removable. I had so many issues with factory installed equipment in my C26 I had to remove almost all the panels to get at wiring and fittings, hoses, you name it I put my hands on it!

I am now wondering if I should install one blower, or two?
Is there a standard based on bilge volume or number of engines or something else?

I would estimate the area for the blower to be installed to be at least 200 Cubic feet. This area would need at least one 250 CFM blower or two 150 CFM blowers

When I installed the ventilation system in my 26 Cutwater I installed a 5" exhaust vent with a 4" 220 CFM blower and a 3 Inch 150 CFM Blower with a 3" manifold that was vented out thru the Cutwater fake vents that I changed over to being real vents. I installed enough suction vents to equal the exhaust vents. I had more going on with my application. I was trying to keep the engine compartment within ABYC recommended specifications of no more that 122 F Machinery compartment temperature. I was exceeding 160F when cruising. To hot !!! Poor design! For your application I would install 2 Passive intake vents on the starboard side and two exhaust vents on the port side using 3" vents with tubes and 2 150 CFM 3" blowers. I believe that would do a good job. I installed switches in the cockpit for the blowers. The switches had blue lights that aluminate when the switches/blowers were on. This made the wire run short and an easy place to turn the blowers off. I could not hear them when I was at the helm but I could hear them when I was in the cockpit. I always would leave them on when running the engine and then shut them down after we either anchored or docked. Having the switches in the cockpit worked well for this application.