R31 Lewmar Windlass failure

[davez]

The Lewmar windlass in my 2016 R31 has quit working. At the connections on the contactor for the two heavy gauge wires to the windlass, I checked that the Up/Down switches alternated between providing 12V and ground at each connection (depending on whether Up or Down was pressed), and they all worked. So all the controlling components seem to work.

That left the windlass itself or the heavy guage wires to it as the potential problem. I disconnected those wires from the contactor and connected them across a 12V utility battery, and nothing. I would be surprised if those wires had a break, but do they have connections inside the windlass that can be disconnected to test? Or do they run right into the motor?

Do the motors often fail?

 

[knotflying]

Here is the troubleshooting routine. Could be the contactor itself.

2. Failure to operate or sluggish operation. • The majority of these problems are electrical in nature. It is essential that the proper voltage be maintained. The proper voltage on a 12 Volt system is 13.5 Volts, constant low voltage will damage motor. Ensure electrical cable size is large enough to handle the current draw and keep voltage drop within acceptable limits. • Check control switches, connections, battery condition, isolator switch, fuse and motor for operation failure. 3. Failure to operate. • Is there a voltage at the input terminals to the contactor and switches. Check the circuit breaker/ isolator switch and any fuses. • Operate the switch. Is there voltage at the positive switch terminal on the solenoid. If not, the switch (or its wiring), is difective. • Keep the switch activated. Is there voltage at the main output terminal on the contactor. If not check the contactor coil ground circuit. If okay, replace the contactor. • Check the voltage at the motor. If voltage is present, the motor is defective.

 

[davez]

Thanks for the reply. As I understand it, when the windlass is not in use the two output terminals on the contactor (solenoid) should be Open (no power, no ground). Then when say the Up button is pushed, one output terminal should see 12v (13.5V) and the other output terminal should see ground. Then when the Down button is pushed, the terminal that was previously 12V should ground, and the one that was ground should see 12V. I will check to confirm 13.5V is there (vs 12V) but since I only use the windlass with the boat engine running, I expect I'll see 13.5V. In the process of learning the system, I did test all the other contactor terminals, but given that the output terminals act correctly, I think all the other control components should be ok?

The utility battery I used to directly power the windlass was at 13.7V. It was a smaller size battery I borrowed from my house generator starter. Though a small battery, I expected it would give me enough juice to at least bump the windlass, but nothing. That's why I'm thinking the windlass motor is shot.

I just noticed the post titled 'Replace or not replace Lewmar Windlass'. I defintely do not see any rust like shown in one photo in that post. I will take the cover off (with the windlass still bolted to the deck) and look for signs of internal rust.

Speaking of rust, a few years ago I pushed the Down switch near the windlass but the motor wouldn't stop when I let the switch go. After frantically pushing the Up switch and repushing the Down switch the motor finally stopped. 20 minutes later, the motor started again by itself (after which I manually popped the breaker). Later, with power off, I pushed the Down switch again and I could feel the rust inside the switch. The Ranger folks replaced the switch for me at Poet's Cove two weeks later, but I wonder if that sticking switch caused the motor to overheat at some time.

It looks like the motor only has a one year warranty. https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=4556625#

 

[knotflying]

I'm not a windless pro, but it does seem like providing power direct should run the windless one way or the other. I would rule out the contactor and after that assume it is the motor. Probably a call to Lewmar will also help to troubleshoot. They may be able to give you some additional tips.

 

[Hydraulicjump]

If you want to send Lewmar a note via email, here is their tech support:

USTechSupport@lewmar.com

they may take a bit to get back to you. They are dealing with the Covid-19 craziness too. My guess is the motor is shot. That turns out to not be that hard to replace and costs are modest. Or so I am told.

 

[gsc3]

The Lewmar windlass failed on my 2018 Cutwater 24 earlier this year. I went through the same troubleshooting you described, and finally I learned that the problem was the electric motor. When I removed the motor the shaft would not turn. I opened up the motor and found that its bearing was rusted. Some way water had gotten into the motor, although the motor seals looked OK when I opened it up. I bought a new motor from Defender, installed it, and the windlass was good as new! Took almost a day to remove the windlass, open it up, replace the motor, and reinstall the windlass. Apart from the time spent, it was a cheap fix. Good luck!

Slade Cargill, Cutwater 24, Sojourner, Longboat Key, FL

 

[davez]

I am having trouble removing the motor from my windlass. I remove the lower two screws (shown in green boxes in the photo) but that is not enough to release the motor. The parts schematic shows three screws. Instead of the upper screw shown in the schematic I have a post. The post does not appear to be intended to be removed (it is not knurled, and has no flat sides for a wrench). I thought maybe the motor bracket should slide out over the post, but I couldn't get the bracket to rotate around or slide on the post, without excessive force. I am hoping someone can tell me how this motor is supposed to be removed. Thanks
https://www.dropbox.com/s/o75egnyabe1wkdy/Windlass w Parts View.jpg?dl=0

 

[davez]

I am feeling a little foolish.. the 3rd screw to remove the motor from the windlass is there, under the gasket. The motor came out relatively easily with that screw removed.

 

[davez]

My final(?) post. It turns out the windlass motor is ok. Since all there is between the contactor and the motor is two wires, I assumed that when I disconnected the two wires at the contactor and connected them to a battery, and the motor did not work, that it was a bad motor.

But it isn't just continuous wire between the motor and contactor. There are two shrink sleeved crimp connections which connect the boat supplied (8 gauge I think) wiring to the 10 guage wires from the motor. You can see them in the chain locker. One of those crimped connections was bad. I cut the two wires at the connectors to pull the motor out, then on a whim I connected those wires to a battery and was amazed when the motor spun.

So I cut out those original two connectors (including shrink wrap) and had to insert two new pieces of wire (four new connectors) to bridge the gap. Sounds simple, but it was a nightmare. There is not room for two hands and one head in the chain locker at the same time. So I had to trim and join and shrink wrap each new connector with one hand - not fun.

So, a tip to others with the same issue. Before cutting any wires and/or removing the motor, wiggle both connectors while power is on to the windlass to see if you can find the bad connector(s). Or strip a little of the shrink wrap (to expose the wire) on the motor side of the connector and run a wire from there back to the boat winflass wires disconnected at the contactor, so you can test for continuity. If you only need to replace one connector, much better. And cut out only the butt connector itself (not the whole shrink wrapped section, my bad) so maybe the wires will reach the chain locker opening so you can use two hands. And remove the chain locker lid to get better access. And maybe buy or borrow automatic wire strippers and ratcheting crimpers.

Hope this helps others.