Ranger 23 Anodes?

[Nickc]

I purchased a used 2019 Ranger Tug/200hp Yamaha(50Hrs) Sept 2019,that spent the season in Long Island, Ct .
When it was hauled in November, I noted there was is only one anode. It is a 2x7x1/2inch (approx) anode attached to bottom of the Yamaha OB bracket, that was about 80% dissolved and about to fall off. I believed this anode had been placed new the prior May 2019.
This boat came equipped with stainless steel trim tabs that was not bottom-coat protected and does not have anodes attached. It was covered with sea weed/barnacles that was power washed when the boat was hauled. The Lenco trim control cylinders also were also seaweed covered and exhibits some corrosion on the portion of the cylinder below the water line.
This boat also came equipped with a Lewmar 110TT 1.5 kw bow thruster, that power-wished clean and appears in good condition. It does not appear to have (or need?) an anode attached.
My questions are:
1). I plan on replacing the 1 anode to the bottom of the Yamaha OB bracket. Is that all is required to provide Galvanic protection to the boat?
2).I plan on installing "pancake" anodes on each of the trim tabs and then bottom painting the trim tabs and trim tab cylinders ( along with bottom strut of OB). Is there are other suggestions in reference to this?
3).The Lewmar thrustor does not appear to have or need any anode protection since I read somewhere, it is a composite construction housing and has a stainless steel securing shaft/bolt. Am I correct in this assessment and is any other thrustor maintenance needed- other applying bottom paint to the thruster prop and housing?

 

[SgtAlf]

2).I plan on installing "pancake" anodes on each of the trim tabs and then bottom painting the trim tabs and trim tab cylinders ( along with bottom strut of OB). Is there are other suggestions in reference to this?

Don't paint the anodes, and the must contact bare steel. I cover the 3" area for the anodes top and bottom of the trim tap with masking tape, enough to cover the 3" and then some. install the anode, then cut the tape around the anode, remove the anodes leaving the 3" tape where the anode will go, then paint, remove tape, install the anodes.
There no anode on the thruster.

 

[BB marine]

Sounds like the engine anode is doing its job. The Yamaha transom clamp bracket anode may be the only protection that the under water metal components have. Depending on equipment installed there may be a few bronze thru hulls on the bottom which are bonded. The engine should be bonded. The Trim Tabs normally are not bonded so the anodes installed (Pancake) are protecting the trim tab plains only. In salt water the trim tab anodes are recommended. If you use shore power when the boat is in the water the installation of a galvanic isolator may help reduce the erosion of the anode. If there is not damage to the Lower unit of the Yamaha from corrosion your anode was doing what it is supposed to do and replacement of the anode will be a yearly preventative maintenance item. Personally I like to have enough anode protection that there is a minimum of 50% of the anode left when replacement is done. This isn't always possible without adding extra anodes. Try using Aluminum alloy anodes. Most outboard manufactures recommend the Aluminum alloy anode instead of the Zinc anode. Do not mix anode materials.

Lewmar uses composite housing on their smaller thrusters so there will not be an anode needed. Cleaning the housing ,propeller and tube should be done has a preventative maintenance. I remove the prop yearly on my thrusters, inspecting the composite prop for cracks, the mounting hardware nut and washer and threads on the shaft for crevice corrosion. I clean all components and apply a small amount of anti corrosion grease to the metal components.

 

[Hamster]

Hopefully your boat came with manuals. The Yamaha has another anode (fin). Should be two to replace.

 

[Nickc]

Thanks all for your replies... I have to check again, but I am pretty sure there is no fin anode on my 200 hp Yamaha

 

[Brian98133]

Your fin anode should be on the bottom side of the fin, just above the prop. That's where mine is. Impossible to see unless you're tilted up fully, and/or on your back looking up at the lower assy.

 

[Nickc]

Brian.. Tks again for your helpful comments... in reference to the thruster..if I was feeling adventurous..and wanted to remove prop to service..would first locking prop in place with a wood wedge, & going in there with a long ratchet wrench with the appropriate socket and turning counterclockwise- be the way to go? Will it need some type of wheel puller to get it off?

 

[BB marine]

in reference to the thruster..if I was feeling adventurous..and wanted to remove prop to service..would first locking prop in place with a wood wedge, & going in there with a long ratchet wrench with the appropriate socket and turning counterclockwise- be the way to go? Will it need some type of wheel puller to get it off?

I use a 1/2 oak dowel rod lodging it between a blade and the gear housing. I use a long 1/4 drive extension and socket ratchet to loosen the nut. The first time I removed the prop when it was new the prop was stuck on the shaft. I used the dowel rod has my drift punch and tapped it around the edge of the prop hub. It eventually came loose. Now it it is a simple remove the nut grab the prop with 3 blade contact and it pulls off with little effort.

The Yamaha has another anode (fin). Should be two to replace.

This is true if you leave the lower unit in the water all the time. If you trim the engine up when it is not in use which most do. This anode will last a few seasons or more. If it is not in the water it isn't doing anything. If it is a zinc anode once it goes in the water and comes out it will form an oxidation coating and doest do much unless it is cleaned ( another reason to use Aluminum).It should be checked. Most have the flat plate installed. The trim tab anode or the trim tab mounted on the cavitation plate was used for adjusting steering torque. With the use of Hydraulic or power steering it has very little effect.

 

[Nickc]

Brian
Thanks for your tips for removing thrustor prop.
Also, after reading your comments and checking my OB lower unit, I determined there is no other anode on cavitation plate or fin. I therefore will be only replacing the existing 2x7x1/2 anode with an aluminum anode. Since the engine is up when it hooked up to shore power at the slip, I will not be adding another anode. However, since the tip of the engine bottom and back of prop shaft gear hub is sometime in water while in the up position, I will bottom paint that area. I also will be installing " pancake" aluminum anode on each of the trim tabs and bottom painting the trim tabs (not the Anodes) and also bottom painting the hydraulic trim cylinder casings. I wont be going with a galvanic isolator until I see how the new anodes work out this season.

 

[ALICE J]

Boat Zincs has sticky paper cutouts for the pancake zincs, look for them on the site or call.

 

[Hamster]

My 2019 Yamaha for the R23 includes a second zinc, the trim tab zinc. Maybe it is in great condition so you don’t notice. Takes a deep socket to remove and replace. Here is the part number that was on my box: 61A-45371-00. https://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/443 ... =61A-45371. I suspect RT Parts has this anode they can send to you, too.