Ranger R23 Windlass Malfunction

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Nmontagno

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Feb 21, 2020
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Fluid Motion Model
C-242 C
Vessel Name
Valkyrie
While using my windlass I started to run into some issues retrieving the line and anchor. I have 100' of chain and 150' of rode. I let out all of the chain and about 50' of rode the first time, retrieved it with no problem. About 2 hours later I dropped anchor again, this time I let out 100' of chain and again about 50' of rode. While trying to retrieve the rope line it would not run smoothly into the anchor locker. The rope would constantly get hung up on the windlass winch pulley. Instead of it going into the locker, it would try to wrap itself around the windlass pulley and then get stuck. I was finally able to retrieve the line by pulling on the rope from inside the locker while we held the "up" button on the windlass. Once I got to the 100' of chain it worked perfectly with no issues. This was brand new rope from the factory delivery and only used it twice before it started to get hung up on the windlass. Confused.

Thanks.
 
I would also look at, what size rode is that windless rated for. It almost sounds like the rode is to small.

You could be missing, I think its called the stopper cam. It should be located at 6 O'clock at gypsy roller.
 
Rode is very specific to the windlass. If a substitution was made there will be problems. Since I have a Lewmar windlass I use only Lewmar rode.
 
Martin610":2oq5svya said:
Rode is very specific to the windlass. If a substitution was made there will be problems. Since I have a Lewmar windlass I use only Lewmar rode.

I don't think its that sensitive. I never had a problem and never used a Lewmar rode.
 
There have been a few posts about this happening with new rode. Possibly the issue comes from the twist that is induced into the rope when it's fed on to a reel at the producer. That causes it to hockle when used as a rode. The easy way to release this is to get out into deep (300ft) water and let out the full rode. Make sure the bitter end is attached!!! Leave it sit for a while and enjoy the sunshine before retrieving slowly. Make sure the rode is laying well in the locker and not bunching up under the windlass. Often it will make large loops if the twist is out leaving a 'pocket' into which the chain drops. There's not enough room for this to happen in an R25SC and I have to push the line into corners as I retrieve when I have a lot of rode out. Hopefully the R23 doesn't have this problem.
 
I may not be understanding your issue. But this is what I have found to be the case with the 3 strand rode that is equipped on Rangers and Cutwaters. It is stiff. It needs to lay perfectly in the locker when retrieved in order for it not to bind. The first couple of times we anchored when purchasing the boat over four years ago I had no issue. I was anchoring in 10' of water and used 50" of chain and 10' to 20' of rode. We then anchored in deeper water and let out 50 of chain and around 100' of rode. I tried pulling the anchor from the helm. It jammed! I went up to the bow and played with it and realized the rode was all bunched up in the locker. I straightened it up and proceeded to pull the anchor from the bow using on the deck switches. It jammed again same thing it was all fouled in the locker. I straightened it out again. I was close to chain so the rode pulled in ok and then the chain started pulling in but it no piled wrong in the locker and jammed again. I did not spread the rode wide enough in the locker and the chain could not fall to the bottom. I straightened it out again and the anchor came up fine. Since then I have never pulled the anchor from the helm I always go up to the bow pull in 20 to 30 ' and straighten 20 to 30 ft straighten. The locker design sucks. It is to shallow. If they made it deeper I would be saying the V berth sucks because the anchor locker takes up to much room. The best solution is get rid of the 3 ply and use 8 plait 1/2" with 5/16 chain. The 8 plait will lay better. I have put up with it for 4 seasons and it's time to replace the rode anyway so that is on my to do list this year.
 
Brian,

I use 8 plait on my R-27. It lays down much better than the three strand, but I still have to retrieve from the bow. The chain piles up and then jambs. The way around it is to initially go up to the bow and retrieve the line and place it around the perimeter of the anchor well creating a hole in the center. After you bring in enough line and chain without loosing hold, you can usually go inside and retrieve it all the way. However, on a muddy bottom I prefer to clean things on the way up with a hose and have the first mate at the helm to navigate. The anchor locker depth is definitely an aspect that needs a better design.
 
Sounds like a twisting issue.

go to deep water let it out and hang and let it unravel. it could still have the twist where it came off the reel on install.
 
We use our windlass on virtually every trip. If it worked prior, and the rode is sized correctly, the line or rope stripper maybe damaged or missing. I just ordered a new one, as mine failed after wear, and it is considered a high wear part by lewmar. It is a plastic or metal piece that bolts to the Gipsy, and causes the rode to run into the locker vs become wrapped. Kind of a graduated U shape with bolt holes at the bottom. Our symptoms were similar to yours on our last anchoring, and the remnants of the damaged stripper were bound in the Gipsy. Not sure if it was pure wear or a rough anchorage when I failed to secure the rode to a cleat. The replacement part can be ordered online from third parties.
 
I had a similar problem on my R23. There's a plastic guide that loops over the center of the gypsy. Mine broke and the line would try to wrap the gypsy. I ordered 3 spares from Lewmar. You can replace this part without removing the gypsy, if it's not tangled up.
 
SgtAlf":1llqumgm said:
I had a similar problem on my R23. There's a plastic guide that loops over the center of the gypsy. Mine broke and the line would try to wrap the gypsy. I ordered 3 spares from Lewmar. You can replace this part without removing the gypsy, if it's not tangled up.

Same here. That plastic flemming was a fatal flaw in the design of the Lewmar Pro Sport model Windlass. They upgraded to metal on the newer model.
 
We had the same issue on our R23 and then again on the R29. Took a 6" length of pool noodle. Cut out approximately 1/2" to 1" wide along the length to fit around the wires and wedged it into the ledge that is there. This has worked so far on the few times we have anchored. Prior to this the line would get tangled in the windlass making anchoring not much fun.
It seems that the line wants to curl up on the ledge and and go back through the windlass or knot up and make a mess that jams the windlass. Going slow and checking the line retrieval to ensure line is storing correctly is what I do now.
 
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