tiger":3bt7cqv2 said:
Thank you all for your response. Not sure why ranger does not follow the manufactures recommendation??? I live in Florida and the main reason for this boat was the inclosed AC helm. There are 100 of boat manufactures that have AC units running on planning boating. So trying to figure the best way to set this up so I don't keep on losing prime. Lower the pump? get a new pump that will not be effected by air in the system? Clam shell on the intake under the boat? Bigger Raw water filter? If anyone has had a successful fix please share. Thank you all.
There are many ways to make it better but there is one way to make it right. Installation based on the installation manual.
I have installed marine air units after factory deliveries and the plumbing aspect is usually not that difficult to install in a boat that is assembled. ( the air ducting is usually a nightmare to install)
The thru hull should be mounted as deep in the water as possible. Close to the keel and a properly sized seacock installed with a scoop facing forward ( the thru hull, fittings, hoses should be sized equal to or larger than the pump inlet inside diameter). You will have to move the hose from the multi sea strainer( Generator/head/ wash down ) to the single thru hull/ strainer dedicated to the Air Unit and confirm it is properly sized.
The strainer installation should be located below the water line. There should be a straight run from the thru hull seacock to the strainer. No low spots, no loops and limited bends.
The pump inlet should be installed above the strainer but below the water line. Again no low spots, loops and limited bends to prevent air from getting trapped. When I installed this portion of the plumbing I would confirm when the seacock is opened the sea strainer and pump would fill with water and water would come out of the pumps outlet fitting( pump off). This guarantees that air will not trapped, the pump will prime, the install is done correctly.
From the outlet side of the pump to the air unit inlet ( air unit should be mounted above the water line) there should be a slight increase in hose elevation. When the pump is pumping it should be pumping up hill to the air unit. There should be limited bends, no loops or no low spots for water to trap. When the pump is off the water should drain down hill from the air unit to the pump/strainer/seacock. When the boat is pulled out of the water the system if properly installed should be self draining.
From the outlet side of the air unit to the thru hull discharge fitting the hose should be running down hill. limited bends, no loops and no low spots. This will allow any water from the air unit to thru hull discharge to self drain.
If the system is properly installed there should be no issues with air entering the pump while running at any speed. These air units are designed to be operated while the boat is operating and at speed, any speed.
No matter what others have done to fix the issues with poor air unit performance while operating the boat. Bandaids are temporary fixes. If properly installed you should not have any issues with the units operation unless there is a failed component. In your description the unit is operational the installation is prohibiting it from operating correctly.
The same goes for the generators. If the installation is installed correctly the units should operate flawlessly.
When Multi port sea strainers are ok to use with heads and wash down systems. I cringe at the thought of using them in conjunction with the main engine, generator, or Marine air units.