Recommended tow vehicles for a Ranger 27

[Cptrbbjr]

We are getting ready to purchase a Ranger 27 (2011). Currently do not own a tow vehicle. Need some advice as to appropriate vehicles to tow this boat. Appreciate some help. Thank you.

 

[sportner]

I believe the consensus is for a 3/4 ton truck with Diesel engine but a gas engine will do the job. If you are going to tow long distances many times I think the diesel will give you better performance. We have a 2006 3/4 ton with the Duramax diesel and are very pleased. If you search the data base here I'm sure you'll find more discussions on this subject.

Good luck with your purchase and welcome aboard.

 

[NorthernFocus]

This is typically a loaded topic. We all have our opinions, favorite manufacturers, etc. I went through this process late last year. A lot depends on where you will tow, how far, etc. And whether you will also drive the tow vehicle every day. I did not have a going in opinion regarding brand names so started from scratch.

First decision. While there are a few 1/2 ton trucks that can theoretically handle the weight, a 3/4 ton does it a lot more comfortably. The less you are outweighed by the trailer load, the more control you have.

Second decision, gas or diesel. For me, I was going to drive the truck to work every day which is barely a long enough drive to warm up good. And aside from towing will do very little highway driving. Plus my normal tow to the water is about 100mi round trip but mostly flat. So I opted for gas. Primarily because the pollution controls on modern diesels behave better if they get on the highway and have a chance to get hot. Gas is less efficient and not as much power, but life is full of compromises. And diesel cost an extra $8-10k.

Regarding brand, once you make the 3/4 ton decision, that limits it to the big three US manufacturers. I drove them all and they all have pros and cons. They'll all do the job. So I picked the one that I liked for "feel".

Good luck with your decision.

 

[knotflying]

If you are going diesel and going used try to avoid 2011 models. That is the first year that they came out with using DEF. It seems many of us have had issues with the Nox sensors. GM came out recently with an extended warranty on this issue. I am not sure of the other manufacturers have also. The issue is benign, but can become a problem if you are in the middle of nowhere and the "exhaust fluid warning" pops up. You have 500 miles to get it resolved and after that the speed is reduced to 55 MPH and after another stretch (can't remember the distance) it goes down to 5 MPH.

NorthernFocus hit the points to consider spot on.

Good luck with your quest.

 

[Cptrbbjr]

Thank you all for your advice and comments. You have pointed me in the right direction and I am sure will save me time in the research and selection phase. Again thank you.

 

[Brian B]

I received a letter from Ford a few days ago. They are extending the warranty on Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) sensors to 8 years or 80,000 miles.
My .02 is if you buy used purchase an extended warranty policy. Fixing these suckers can be very expensive.

 

[Scuffy]

I would also recommend getting four wheel drive. Trucks with four wheel drive seem to hold their value a lot better. We have a 2009 Chevy 3,4 ton with the Dura Max Allison transmission which is before the exhaust fluid was required and it does a fine job. Diesel trucks are more expensive and diesel fuel does cost a little more. They do hold their value pretty well. The trade off is if you get 12 to 15 miles per gallon or better with the diesel the gas engine might only be getting six to eight miles per gallon. Over 50,000 miles of towing the miles per gallon thing starts to even the score with the lower priced truck and the cheaper fuel. If you are not towing long distances I would think the gas engine would be fine. One plus about the Duramax and the Allison transmission combination available from Chevy or GMC is that the Allison transmission to being able to hold up fine pulling 10,000 pounds plus. They have a very good reputation.
D.D.

 

[tlkenyon]

2008 GMC Duramax w/ Allison. Bulletproof. No worries while towing.

 

[knotflying]

Thank you all for your advice and comments. You have pointed me in the right direction and I am sure will save me time in the research and selection phase. Again thank you.

Also, when purchasing check the hitch type on the truck. Sometimes the hitch performance does not coincide with the capabilities of the truck or what you need to pull your load.

 

[NorthernFocus]

Also, when purchasing check the hitch type on the truck. Sometimes the hitch performance does not coincide with the capabilities of the truck or what you need to pull your load.

A good point. Don't assume anything. Check ALL the specs. Don't assume that a "Tow Package" means max towing capability for a given model. It may only mean that it has an extra oil cooler and the trailer wiring harness. You may need to get a heavy payload or "camper" package to get adequate rear suspension for the tongue load. Or have it added after market. To further confuse the issue, each manufacturer uses different terminology. Via on-line search you should be able to find all of the particulars for a given model.

 

[DreadKnot]

You also need to consider the brake assembly on the trailer. You may have to get an after market brake controller for your truck to match up with the controller assembly on the trailer. My original brake controller for towing our other trailers had to be upgraded for the electric over hydraulic unit on the trailer. Go big with the truck. Towing isn't generally the problem; stopping is. People pull out in front of trucks towing boats ALL THE TIME because they assume you are going slow. Oversize the truck for towing the boat and your truck/transmission will last longer and you will be safer while not in the water. Too many people are out there on the roads towing at max capacity for the vehicle, and that is just not a good idea. Many of the ramps for launching, assuming that is why you are towing, are very slippery and some are extremely steep. If you have to get in and out of the water at lower tides, you will need four wheel drive. You can't always predict the time you will spend on the ramps (or in the water) and can easily miss the nice window of opportunity for launching/retrieving at higher or mid-height tides. Good luck.

 

[Scuffy]

Electric over hydraulic brakes on the trailer are a must IMHO especially if you are pulling 10k+ pounds. I have had a Carlisle model 1600PSI unit. We did have some trouble with our first Carlisle/ Hydrastar controller. The replacement Carlisle/Hydrastar unit is still going strong.
On our current boat we have a Brake Rite unit which came with our Float On trailer. So far only a couple thousand miles but it seems fine. Both brand of brake controllers worked fine with the Chevy built in controller. Just make sure the trucks receptacle has the 12 vdc power wired to it for the power for the brake controller.
D.D.

 

[nzfisher]

If you are still looking for a truck talk to a diesel mechanic in a bigger company that works on all brands. They all have their problems. Find out what he fixes the least. Some have transmission issues, some have brake issues, some have fuel pump issues but if he is any good he can steer you in the right direction. I wish I had taken this advice before I bought mine.

 

[Commander Ed]

When I first bought Sea Dragon - did not have trailer - went out and bought a trailer - then I needed a truck. Spec said an F-150 could do the job, but I decided an F-250 Super Duty with Diesel was a better match - So I bought an F-350 Super Duty Diesel!!! I have not regretted that decision - particularly when I towed over the mountains and into Lake Tahoe.

 

[bakerboat]

Hi,

We brought back our R27 from Georgia to Maine over Memorial Day weekend. We had a 2014 F-250 diesel that was fitted out with an upgraded hitch, air bags and 60 gallon aux. fuel tank. Purchased a Load Rite three axle trailer and the 10 disk brakes provided great stopping power as the crazies in the NE corridor were out in force. Took a northerly route and the diesel had no problems with the Pennsylvanian hills and averaged about 10 mpg. Weighted out at 20K lbs total. F-250 is rated at 23K lbs. R27 and trailer were about 11300 lbs. Trailer is 2300 lbs.

Regards,
Ken
R27 O'Meara

 

[andejack]

It's nice to learn about the good experiences Tug owners have had with their tow vehicles. Mine has been very good as well but, I suspect will create some controversy. I tow my R27 with a Toyota Tundra -- towed it all the way back to MN from the factory with a side trip to Calgary for a family reunion. Imagine the curiosity of the wonderful folks on the prairies of Canada! In the years since, we have made numerous trips from Central MN to the western Great Lakes. All have been enjoyable, comfortable and problem free. There are numerous other and understandably more robust alternatives. My point? I cannot find fault with the decision to put my trust in my great Toyota Tundra.

 

[Scuffy]

It's always good to hear how happy folks are with your choices. But the Tundra's towing capacity of 10,500 pounds from a quick look on the internet seems to imply you are about at your trucks maximum capacity. Your boat does not seem to have that many hours on it. At 77 hours as you advertise would suggest you have used the boat all that much given it's a 2012. I wonder if you could share the gas mileage figures you get while towing? I work with someone who owns a Tundra and brake issues seem to have been a problem. For me I don't like to make minimal recommendations as they might be cause for some problems for others down the road. I could see where you could possibly load a R-27 for a trip and be above your trucks towing limit. Should the unthinkable occur I would wonder about a insurance company not wanting to pay a claim because the towing vehicle was towing beyond it's rated capacity. JMHO here.
D.D.

 

[andejack]

As I said, I knew my post would bring a response. I believe my tow miles, despite minimal hours on the boat, likely far exceed those of most others. There is no relation between engine hours and tow miles. That is a location factor. The Toyota dealer and my insurance company know exactly what I am doing and do not have a problem with it. I stand by my statement that towing my R27 with my Toyota Tundra has been enjoyable and trouble free -- even over the mountains. Towing MPG is about 10, while over-the-road MPG not towing is near 20. For me, a decent trade off vs the upcost for a diesel.

 

[Crewdog]

For the benefit of anyone thinking of a small truck to haul a boat as big as an R-27, please get a big truck.

I've spent the better part of a career as a TV News Photographer, documenting all manner of human misery, including accidents, crime, civil & criminal trials. Too many accidents; too many times sticking a camera, mic and light in the face of a grieving family member, or in the face of defendants and plaintiffs and their attorneys, or just seeing someone's goods splattered all over the highway.

As in the many discussions of what type of truck to get; manufacture, gas v diesel, srw vs drw, the PULLING power and rating alone is not a good indicator. It's the STOPPING power that's most important and often overlooked.

Also, there's precious little info on Tundra available without going to a Toyota dealer concerning the Gross Combination Vehicle Weight, or GCVW; or the weight of truck with cargo and trailer weight together. For example, a Ford F250 srw with a gas 6.2L V8 w/4.30 rear end has a GCRW of 22200. A Ford F150 with 5.0l v8 and 3.73 rear end has GCRW of 15300 if equipped w/heavy payload pkg.

Also consider the hitch itself. EACH hitch on every different manufacture of truck, whether stock or aftermarket should have a sticker visible that lists the conventional towing capacity AND the weight distributing capacity of the tow hitch.

The prime question I suppose every truck/trailer operator should ask is: "Am I ready to defend my actions/choices in a lengthy legal proceeding, or fight my insurance company for a payout?"

 

[NorthernFocus]

...As in the many discussions of what type of truck to get; manufacture, gas v diesel, srw vs drw, the PULLING power and rating alone is not a good indicator. It's the STOPPING power that's most important and often overlooked...

Finally the real argument in favor of a bigger truck is getting some press(no pun intended). 😀

Don't you just love these threads?...