Replacement of holding tank

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SmallChange

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Sep 15, 2010
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15
Fluid Motion Model
C-26
Hull Identification Number
FMLR2516B010
Vessel Name
Small Change
I am interested in installing an Airhead toilet in my R-25SC however I have already used the holding tank for its intended purpose. I would like to remove the holding tank and install a new tank to be used as a second water tank. Does anyone know if it is possible to remove the original holding tank in one piece without making major modifications the the boat? At first glance I don't think it is possible however any advice would be appreciated.
 
You may want to ask Andrew. On the R-27 it looks possible by removing the raw water pump and the board it is mounted to and sliding it forward. Perhaps if you can't get it out in one piece you can get it out in pieces and then replace it with two smaller tanks.
 
If there is no other solution you can always take this opportunity to make your R-25SC into an R-27. You would just need a Sawzall some sheet metal and some duct tape. 😱 :shock: :lol:

Sorry, I have a demented sense of humor. Hopefully someone will give you a more appropriate answer.

Eric
 
SmallChange.
I am getting ready to do the extact same thing in my classic R-25.
After measuring, I am certain the tank can be slid forward enough to get it out, by only removing the water lift muffler.
But first I need to remove the hoses and fittings on the back of the tank.
I can access these thru the trap door in the locker under the rear seat.
Anyway, that is the plan. I will put the SawsAll in the trunk of the car, case I have to go to plan B. Plan B is to cut up the tank in pieces, if I have to, to get it out.
There are two reasons I am doing this. One is, the Airhead is a lot less likely to cause me problems, than the macerator pump. And the macerator pump is nearly impossible to get at to replace. Reason number two is the rear thruster motor needs to be replaced. It is also impossible to get at to replace. With the holding tank gone, it will be a piece of cake to replace the thruster motor. It will also free up a bunch of space that can be used to store stuff.
Good luck and let me know what you find out when you attempt to remove the tank.
I may be able to do the work this weekend, or next. When finished, I will post in this thread, how it worked out for me.
 
if you have to cut the tank to get it out you may be able to find a bladder type tank to go back in it's place
 
I tried removing the tank to get to the thruster when I had to replace it. I could not do it without removing part of the transmission linkage, water lift muffler, and various other components. So I decided not to do it. I was able to turn the tank sideways with enough opening to get to the thruster but there were too many things in the way for me to actually get my body low enough to get into the resulting space. It is not just a matter of getting your tank out but getting your body in.

After my experience I personally think you will have to cut the tank as the fastest and easiest way to remove it (although not the freshest smelling way!). I do have a 125 HP Yanmar so if you have a smaller engine it may be possible to remove the tank without too much difficulty. Either way, I would rather cut the tank then the boat.
 
Consider using several sterilants (Clorox, hydrogen peroxide, etc.) for a while, followed by a tank of vinegar and then shutting down your imagination for a few months after that. You will eventually not remember a thing about the previous use.

Consider how all that water on river systems is "recycled" by each succeeding town. Very few die. :lol:
 
Not sure if I would want to use a tank that had been used for black water for potable water. All kinds of living organizms can be in there. I wold cut it out and put in two smaller tanks before I would drink water from a used tank for black water.
 
Regardless of how clean the tank was before that I dont think I could get past the memory of what the tank had been used for....... :mrgreen:
 
I am fairly sure (99%) that current technology could make a previously used "#2 tank" safe for use for drinking water. However, I do not think (100%) that I could ever force myself to drink from it.

You could also remove and clean the tank then reinstall it with a bladder tank inside the old tank. That might work even if you were to cut the tank. The old tank would then provide structural support and protection for a bladder. After some time I might be able to try the water after I got a few of my friends to try after a few drinks.

I have the classic R25 and the tank does look easy to remove but I have not made specific measurements as others have. By the way my rear thruster motor was removed recently without removal of any equipment other than cutting the tyes on the hoses above the rudder and pulling the motor out via double doors. Had to turn the rudder to shift the rudder cylinder out of the way.
 
I plan to rinse out the holding tank a couple of times with a solution of clorox and water before I remove it.
It is inevitable that some of the residual liquid in the tank will be spilled when the tank is removed.
I do not plan to reuse the tank. I am going to sell it at the used boat junk store. I am also going to sell the Y valve, the macerator pump, and the old head. Ought to get enough for all this stuff to pay for a couple gallons of diesel.
 
I think a good cleaning would make the old holding tank suitable for fresh water for showering, doing dishes with soap, etc. I have never drunk the water from any tank whether in a camper or a boat; with routine applications of small amounts of bleach it would not be pleasant even if absolutely clean. We carry at least four gallons of store bought water for making coffee and drinking. I always get distilled water as it, then, doubles for refilling the batteries.

Having said the above, I left my 20 gallon holding tank in place (with a new boat I had the luxury of it being unused) when I installed my Air Head–which works great, BTW. By simply setting the Y-valve to "suck out" you can fill the tank with fresh water from a hose stuck into the pump-out fitting on the stern–just the opposite of what it was designed to do. Disconnect (by cutting) the tube to the overboard discharge through-the-hull fitting at the Y-valve and let it set near the rudder steering mechanism. Connect a new three foot length of tubing to the Y-valve's discharge port and lead it into the starboard deck lazarette near the trim tab pump. Insert into the end of the tube a male barb-to-female garden hose fitting and seal it with a cheap plastic ball valve-to-male garden hose fitting. When you run out of fresh water from the main tank, attach your 15' white potable hose to the garden hose fitting just mentioned and open the fresh water inlet (you can do this from inside the boat at the window above the stove-clever Ranger people!) and run the hose inside through the cabin, out the window and let it dangle into the fresh water inlet. The narrow side deck makes this a nightmare to try from outside the boat in any wave action. Now for the cool part: turn on the macerator (its a really fast pump) with the Y-valve to overboard discharge and pump water from the "holding" tank through the hose into the main fresh water tank. It's exactly 30 gallons in the holding tank so your water is doubled and no need to ration showers when you're out on the hook for a few days.

When you order your Air Head ask Geoffrey to install a female threaded port into the liquid tank (tell him "The left side of the tank when you are sitting on the toilet"). I had this done on my spare tank (always get two, the spare fits perfectly under the sink in the head), if the tank fills up at night you (or your wife for sure) will appreciate the spare. Buy a standard threaded male nipple-to-3/8" hose barb and screw it into the tank's port. Add a couple inches of hose to a male/female snap fitting (PM me for details). One fitting dangles off the tank and the other goes to a 20' long 3/8 plastic tube stored under the sink out of view, through a hole in the floor, out past the water heater, into the lazaretto, and back towards the trim tab pump and around and under the bait well towards the rudder steering mechanism. Remember that discharge hose you cut off the Y-valve and left dangle there? Well spray the last 10' of the 3/8" tubing with WD-40 and thread it through the discharge hose. That will neatly lead the tube to port and around the batteries and right up to the discharge through-the-hull fitting. Remove the hose from the fitting and insert into the tubing you pull from that end of the hose a barb-to-female garden hose fitting. Screw the fitting to the male end of the through-the-hull plastic discharge elbow.

Now, when your Air Head liquid tank fills up, remove it and set it on the toilet for elevation and snap together the tubing fittings to let it drain by gravity right out the old macerator discharge fitting that came with the boat. I put a little piece of that rubbery fabric for inside kitchen cabinets on the toilet top so the tank won't slide off and spill–Ugh!! It takes about 20 minutes to drain even with 3/8" tubing because the path is tortuous. But it sure beats carrying a sloshing pee tank along the dock up to the bathroom (at my Florida marina through two restaurants on the dock) yelling out "Bringing out the dead!" to all in my way. Now I store my spare tank under the V-berth as I don't need it.

You can get fancy and install a galley pump somewhere in the tubing, but do not use a pump with neoprene fittings–they dissolve in the presence of uric acid. I think the Whale pumps are OK. But, why bother... Remember, urine is sterile with no nutrient value so dumping it overboard is not harmful. It is gross, though, and smelly so if you are in the marina do it at night or do the walk to the bathroom after the restaurants close...
 
I can now say from personnal experience, it is possible to remove the holding tank from the R-25 with 110 Yanmar, after removing only the muffler.
 
If you do want to put the bleach, simple green or vinegar into you soiled holding tank, try putting some large ball bearings or something similar along with the water to agitate the crut build-up on the bottom. Two to three foot seas should work nicely!
JD
 
But you will never get another peaceful night's sleep unless you can figure out a way to get every one of them back out. I recall how the yard which installed a tri-color on our mast ran an extra electrical line, not putting it inside the electrical conduit the manufacturer had installed. It banged around in that musical sounding box in anything except a dead calm. I was not amused..... many a night.

Edit: I just noticed the ironic login name......sleepyboat. Too many ball bearings?
 
The log in name came from my sweetheart. When we would be rafted up next to our friends larger boats and would have to leave to haul the 21 ft cc out to go home she would remark "I wish we had a SLEEPYBOAT". Thus the purchace of an R-27. She made me do it.

If you don't hear the ball bearings rolling around then they have not completed their mission. Once they roll around freely you drop in a magnet to take them out or top off the tank with water and pump it out. Then the tank removal should go that much sweeter!
 
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