abcandjrc
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2010
- Messages
- 363
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-24 C SE
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT2160D707
- Vessel Name
- Little Lady (2007)
We bought Little Lady about a month ago. She is a 2007 R21-EC with a Yanmar 3YM30. We did the service on the trailer in our driveway. The only thing I would do differently is that I would drain the marine gear lube at a launch site immediately after use. That way the oil would be hotter and any solids might be in suspension a bit better. To prevent damaging the shaft packing I did not run the propshaft and not much heat transfers to the marine gear in 15 minutes of idle.
I had already made a water tank by installing an old thru-hull fitting in the side of a square plastic pail (neighbor has 7 cats, so kitty-litter pails galore). I wanted to make sure the hose could not come out of the bucket while working, nor suck itself to the bottom and block the water flow. I used 3/4” hose and installed a female hose connector on the other end. (A thought: I would bet they use a male fitting in the Tee just to keep people from easily hooking up a garden hose and risking engine trouble.) During the warm-up Janice kept an eye on the water level in the bucket and adjusted the nozzle on a garden hose to keep up.
I ran the engine for about 15 minutes and then siphoned out the oil. Yanmar runs the dipstick tubes on most of their marine engines all the way to the bottom of the pan. That makes it possible to remove essentially all the oil using it as the siphon instead of snaking a smaller tube with less capacity down the dipstick tube. I used a small hand pump I bought from NAPA. Part # BK 7511023
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail ... 0006392786
I have used similar pumps with dismal results. One big advantage of this pump is that the rubber ends are captive. The previous pumps I have used had slip-on ends which always slipped-off in the middle of the job, and leaked even when in place. I used a 2-inch length of 5/8” hose over the input end and pressed it fully down over the dipstick tube. To reduce the mess of cleaning up yet another hose I discharged the oil directly into an old 5 quart oil container which my wife held in place as I pumped. It did not take long to get the bulk of the oil out.
Changing the filter has always been messy so this time I tried something different. First, I used a sharp punch to make a small hole in the top end of the filter. Then I put a plastic bag over the filter and turned that hole to the downside. Then I punched another hole in what was now the top end. The bulk of the oil ran out into the baggie. This is the neatest I have ever managed it. Of course there is always a residual in the housing, but a few paper towels placed under it as I took off the filter pretty much contained it.
I let the engine sit for a few minutes while I pumped the oil out of the marine gear. For this I used about half of one of the tubes that came with the NAPA pump in the input end and pumped directly into a 1 litre bottle so I could later measure the amount. I had seen comments that it was difficult to get the oil out. I got 10 ounces out, essentially the 0.3 litre capacity. As I mentioned earlier, it is too bad the oil was not hot and stirred up a bit, but ……
By then I figured as much oil in the engine would have settled as ever would. I pumped it again, and netted just a little over 3 quarts total from the engine, actually slightly more than the spec, so the pump and dipstick tube did the job quite well.
I ran the engine for a few minutes and then checked the oil level and topped it up.
Next, I changed the fuel filter. Another baggie helps contain the small leakage that is inevitable there. I exhausted the air using the vent screw and the hand pump and started the engine. It stumbled and stalled twice, but by the third start, it ran continuously with no problems. It started with no unusual cranking-time each time, but I assume small amounts of residual air progressively worked its way through the injectors until they all cleared.
Finally I removed the hose from the thru-hull in the bucket and stuck it in a container of 30/70 antifreeze mix. We get an occasional freeze here, but the low 20s is a quite-rare event. Janice watched the exhaust and green showed up after about 2 litres were siphoned out of the container.
Total elapsed time, including prep, engine warm-up, and most of the cleanup was about 2 hours.
I had already made a water tank by installing an old thru-hull fitting in the side of a square plastic pail (neighbor has 7 cats, so kitty-litter pails galore). I wanted to make sure the hose could not come out of the bucket while working, nor suck itself to the bottom and block the water flow. I used 3/4” hose and installed a female hose connector on the other end. (A thought: I would bet they use a male fitting in the Tee just to keep people from easily hooking up a garden hose and risking engine trouble.) During the warm-up Janice kept an eye on the water level in the bucket and adjusted the nozzle on a garden hose to keep up.
I ran the engine for about 15 minutes and then siphoned out the oil. Yanmar runs the dipstick tubes on most of their marine engines all the way to the bottom of the pan. That makes it possible to remove essentially all the oil using it as the siphon instead of snaking a smaller tube with less capacity down the dipstick tube. I used a small hand pump I bought from NAPA. Part # BK 7511023
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail ... 0006392786
I have used similar pumps with dismal results. One big advantage of this pump is that the rubber ends are captive. The previous pumps I have used had slip-on ends which always slipped-off in the middle of the job, and leaked even when in place. I used a 2-inch length of 5/8” hose over the input end and pressed it fully down over the dipstick tube. To reduce the mess of cleaning up yet another hose I discharged the oil directly into an old 5 quart oil container which my wife held in place as I pumped. It did not take long to get the bulk of the oil out.
Changing the filter has always been messy so this time I tried something different. First, I used a sharp punch to make a small hole in the top end of the filter. Then I put a plastic bag over the filter and turned that hole to the downside. Then I punched another hole in what was now the top end. The bulk of the oil ran out into the baggie. This is the neatest I have ever managed it. Of course there is always a residual in the housing, but a few paper towels placed under it as I took off the filter pretty much contained it.
I let the engine sit for a few minutes while I pumped the oil out of the marine gear. For this I used about half of one of the tubes that came with the NAPA pump in the input end and pumped directly into a 1 litre bottle so I could later measure the amount. I had seen comments that it was difficult to get the oil out. I got 10 ounces out, essentially the 0.3 litre capacity. As I mentioned earlier, it is too bad the oil was not hot and stirred up a bit, but ……
By then I figured as much oil in the engine would have settled as ever would. I pumped it again, and netted just a little over 3 quarts total from the engine, actually slightly more than the spec, so the pump and dipstick tube did the job quite well.
I ran the engine for a few minutes and then checked the oil level and topped it up.
Next, I changed the fuel filter. Another baggie helps contain the small leakage that is inevitable there. I exhausted the air using the vent screw and the hand pump and started the engine. It stumbled and stalled twice, but by the third start, it ran continuously with no problems. It started with no unusual cranking-time each time, but I assume small amounts of residual air progressively worked its way through the injectors until they all cleared.
Finally I removed the hose from the thru-hull in the bucket and stuck it in a container of 30/70 antifreeze mix. We get an occasional freeze here, but the low 20s is a quite-rare event. Janice watched the exhaust and green showed up after about 2 litres were siphoned out of the container.
Total elapsed time, including prep, engine warm-up, and most of the cleanup was about 2 hours.