Running R25 on trailer

[cruiser]

Hi,
Just got my R25, is there a procedure for running the engine out of water?
Guessing you close the raw water sea cock and have a hose feeding the strainer......
Anyone able to point me in the right direction.......want to be careful with that impeller

Thanks

 

[S. Todd]

In my limited experience that is the best way to do it. I tried using one of muffs that you put over the through hull intake with a garden hose attached and it would not get a decent seal leaking so bad that it did not get enough water into the strainer. Remove the drain plug and let your hose fill and even overfill the strainer worked much better (and saves the cost of the muff that didn't work so well).

 

[sheral]

I agree. Baz reported that he watched the Ranger Factory guys do just that.

 

[nzfisher]

I clamp a hose in place so that the water goes into the strainer casting bowl and the hose will not jump out. I have a valve on the end of the hose so that I don't need another person to help turn the water on and off. I regulate the seacock intake valve as well so that the bowl has plenty of water for the pump to pull from. I don't let the water run over the sides as the excess runs directly over the starboard side rear engine mount and accelerates the rust degrade of the mount. If the engine has been drained I push the hose into the strainer casting where the water goes into the engine to minimize the time it is running dry. I typically do this 2-3 times during the off season to check the impeller when replaced and purge the salt water. Requires some care but is no big deal. The down side is the wet motor mount that inevitably occurs. Another tip is to close the seacock and run the wash-down pump to lower the water level in the strainer when checking the filter. This keeps the overflow of water pouring over your engine mount to a minimum. Good luck with your new R25.

Unless you are concerned about freezing I believe I have read somewhere that you should not empty the engine of water. Maybe others have more informed information about this.

 

[Levitation]

Pressurizing the sea strainer from outside the hull raises the possibility of pushing water into the exhaust and up into a cylinder and hydro-locking the engine.
I flush and service my engine by running a hose into the sea strainer from the top and letting it overflow into the bilge. This works just fine.
As far as rusting the engine mount, if it does you don't have enough paint on it :mrgreen:
Neutralize the rust and paint it.

 

[Seaquel]

Yes, I run our R27 (Volvo D3) on the hose via the strainers (I bungee the hose in place) after every outing. Run until the engine temp climbs close to normal running temp. I've been told doing this regularly will preserve life of your investment.

I also use a novel on the hose that allows me to control water flow velocity and on/off remotely. Combined with a bungee cord to hold in place, becomes very easy to make as part of routine when cleaning the boat after a trip.

 

[nzfisher]

Pressurizing the sea strainer from outside the hull raises the possibility of pushing water into the exhaust and up into a cylinder and hydro-locking the engine.
I flush and service my engine by running a hose into the sea strainer from the top and letting it overflow into the bilge. This works just fine.
As far as rusting the engine mount, if it does you don't have enough paint on it :mrgreen:
Neutralize the rust and paint it.

In the first season the paint was gone and rust appeared. Cleaning off the existing rust is nearly impossible to repaint. I just have to chock this up to replacing the mounts when they fail. I am sure that I am not the only boat owner with this problem if you check your filter screen regularly.

 

[Boatdreamer]

We run our R27 on the trailer when we bring her home for a cleaning. I pull the drain plug and run two hoses into the strainer. I find the raw water pump likes a lot of water and I don't want to take a chance of running it dry. While I have the hoses in there I also flush the toilet several times to flush all the salt water out of the system.
I've heard some people put an inline hose adapter in the raw water intake between the strainer and the pump, but I think this would restrict the flow to much while running. I want my Yanmar to get all the water she needs to run cool in Florida's warm water.

Tim and Donna
Gratitude

 

[NorthernFocus]

Others have said it all. The two things to pay special attention to:

1) secure the hose so that it doesn't come out of the strainer while the engine is running. Bungie cords or wire ties work great.
2) DO NOT install any sort of fitting to connect the hose without opening the strainer. Depending on your home plumbing system it can run anywhere from 40 to 100 psi and the cooling water system in the boat is not designed for that sort of pressure. Taking the top off of the strainer is the safest way to avoid accidental overpressure of the system.