Self deploying anchor

Beerthirty

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Messages
9
Fluid Motion Model
C-26
Hull Identification Number
R2510L011
Vessel Name
BEERTHIRTY
I have a problem with my windlass after my last outing. The windlass turned itself on and deployed the anchor on its own while on the trailer. Could have been bad but we caught it in time and the breaker tripped. I believe I have narrowed it down to either a direct short somewhere in the wires of the down anchor wiring or in the windlass control solenoid (?) located in the wiring locker. I disconnected the wire that feeds the down anchor operation to prevent deployment for now but I was hoping for help on the issue before doing more. Anyone else have this problem or have any ideas?
 
Is the anchor shackled when not in use? That being said I have to double check mine the next time I'm on the boat. Assuming that it is, the risk then is the piling over the side. Did the chain piling cause the circuit to trip? I haven't had this problem but I'll double check the wiring in any event.
 
If you have the deck mounted switches on the foredeck, I believe there is some history with them failing shorted. But regardless of location, something in the circuitry must have shorted. It's just a matter of walking it down through the system to locate the point of failure.

You said the breaker tripped. When/how did that occur. A short in the control circuit should simply activate the windlass but not trip the breaker. Unless of course that it ran all the way out to the bitter end then stalled the windlass motor.
 
@ Scuba Too, it's shackled now.
Northern focus- I have the deck mounted switches so I'll start there, thanks. The breaker tripped after paying out about 10' of chain so I don't think there was a point of stalling that occurred. I considered your thoughts on the control circuit but then wondered if the short could be in there. I really don't know but the history of the deck switches shorting out gives me a place to start. Thanks
 
Don't you turn off the power when on the trailer?
 
stwendl":2w69f2o2 said:
Don't you turn off the power when on the trailer?
Definitely a recommended practice. And for redundant protection a simple line with a hook in it to quickly attach to the eye in the shank of the anchor and tie it off to the bow cleat. I shudder at the thought of the anchor trying to take a bite in asphalt at highway speeds.
 
Guys, I switch on the batteries just before launching so it's ready when I hit the water, that's when it self deployed. No damage was done since we weren't moving.
 
Beerthirty":3br0pksu said:
Guys, I switch on the batteries just before launching so it's ready when I hit the water, that's when it self deployed. No damage was done since we weren't moving.
And when it comes down to it, there's no good time for it to happen. Dropping the anchor while running at cruise speed would be darned inconvenient. I've been procrastinating doing something about the deck switches on my boat. This is a good reminder.
 
Follow up: Northern Focus you were right, the deck mounted "down" switch had shorted out internally. Many thanks for that heads up. Lessons learned: As pointed out, shackle or otherwise secure your anchor when traveling. A self deploying anchor while driving down the road would be ugly. In my case, turning on the bostons while staged and prepping for launch resulted in no damage, just a WTF moment. If this should happen to you I would advise that you just go ahead and cut the wires from the deck mounted switch accessed from the anchor rode locker. They are easily accessible at that point, and as awkward as it will be to re-attach the new switch to the existing wiring, that will be much easier than the path I chose. It took me the better part of three days to pull all of the wires from the switches to the solenoid. The V berth ceiling covers were easy enough but the factory did an excellent job of suspending the wire bundle in a near inaccessible channel. I stubbornly insisted to know for sure if wires had been crossed where they were joined from the switches to the wires that completed the circuit to the solenoid so I persisted. I also didn't want to go through the gymnastics required to cut and re-attach the relatively easily accessed wires in the rode locker. I will attest that the factory did a near bullet proof joint from the switch wires, to the wires completing the circuit to the solenoid so I think that is an unlikely place for the problem to exist if this should happen to you, and it is easy enough to eliminate problems in the other switches.
Hope this helps someone else.
 
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