Shear pin replacement - stern thruster

River Bank

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2013
Messages
115
Fluid Motion Model
C-248 C
Vessel Name
RIVER BANK
It appears that I need to replace the shear pin on the stern thruster (2010 R25).

I have been unable to find the manual on the thruster to determine the pin size.

I have a mechanic coming in on April 28 to remove the thruster and I should have a replacement pin on hand.

Would any of you R25 owners know about this pin description (size)?

Bob
 
Bob,

Go to the following post for a great tutorial on how to change your shear pin, along with a pic of the shear pin. The tutorial is for a 27, but I would think it would basically be the same.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2013&p=37944&hilit=shear+pin#p14388

If you purchased your tug new, you should have a spare pin in a ziplock bag. Either in your bag of manuals, or possibly taped onto your bow thruster under your V-Berth. You may be able to contact Richard at the parts department to send you a couple.
 
They are listed on the factory replacement parts form. There should be one in a clip on the bow thruster housing. You will need a 6 mm socket for the job.
 
The stern thruster on my 2010 R25 has failed several times since I adopted her 2 years ago. Each time, the shear pin seemed to be at fault.

I contacted both Ranger and Side Power and, I'm afraid, made kind of a pain of myself since the weak link in the Side Power chain seemed to be the shear pin - a $8 item - with a 4 hour or so (I'm 72 and not very limber) repair time.

One time I was successful in paying Side Power to do the repair- their parting words, "never again" give me some thought. What do I do the next time.

Well, the next time came about a month ago when the Stern Thruster failed again.

This time the Side Power folks offered an "unbreakable" shear pin - made from a roller pin - for the $same money. I bought several.

Now the story starts.

First, I had to gain access to the thruster - I followed every instruction except the removal of the exhaust hoses. I'm scared of tampering and reusing the exhaust hose because the "penalty" for a leaking hose is death. So, I removed both doors to the compartment under the fish box and removed the fish box itself. Then I cut the 2" fiberglass post between the two doors. I also removed the cockpit drain hose that goes thru the thru hull just above the thruster.



Once I had access, I was unable to unbolt the thruster motor with the hex tool I obtained from Ranger. If you don't have one, no problem, it is actually easy to reach this part with an allen wrench.

After removing the motor, I was able to remove two hex head machine screws and remove the drive leg. It took some prying from the outside to get it out. In the process, I noticed th propeller was rubbing against the thruster housing, was very hard to turn, and was, in general, shot.



I took the thruster to a workbench and disassembled it. The bearings were shot, the unit was full of salt water, and the gears were gone. Oh well. At least I found out why I was breaking shear pins.!!.

$500 later, I reinstalled the drive leg and it was now easy to spin the prop. Wow, what a difference.

After reinstalling the drive leg, I faced the hard part, reinstalling the motor in a tight space that was to heavy for me to lift - even though the access gained in the first picture let me get both hands into the tight space.

The clew came elsewhere in this blog (forgive me for not crediting the right author). He suggested a band around the motor - and I used a gigantic wire zip tie - about 1/2" wide - around the motor and going straight up out the opening made by removing the fish bait holder. I was able to clamp the tie wrap to a cord and tie that cord to the rail, adjusting the height of the motor so the holes exactly lined up with the tapped holes in the body of the thruster.

I applied lithium grease to the bolts and turned them nearly entirely in with my fingers. No problem. One snug up with the wrench and I was ready to start the reassembly process.



You can probably click on the photos to see a bigger image. The bottom photo has a clear image of the band that lists the motor to make it all possible.
 
I was able to obtain custom made shear pin replacements out of stainless steel. This shifts the break if you hit something problem from the hard to replace shear pin to the fuse or the propeller - both easier and thus cheaper to replace than the shear pin.

I got mine from ECRuff marine, 954-577-2850, sales@ecruffmarine.com

I believe both Imtra, Sidepower, and Ranger are aware of the fix - apparently, they routinely install the unbreakable shear pin on work boats.

I apologize for not replying to the folks who requested this info via PM. Since Tapatalk came on the scene, my PM are being "captured" by Tapatalk and when I try to install it, the ITUNES replies, "installed" and stops.
 
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