Should I be concerned about my almost 4yr old batteries

baz

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Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
My 4 batteries are the stock batteries provided with our boat when we had it delivered in Aug 2009. This makes them 3.75 years old.

I've never had to top up these batteries with distilled water and I have been checking the fluid level frequently throughout the year.

I did a thorough battery check in October of last year and they were in perfect shape. See my postings at http://www.tugnuts.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3047&p=22273&hilit=battery#p22273.

I haven't done a recent battery check as performed last October, so I cannot say what the current battery states are, but I do believe they are in good shape.

I know people that take good care of their auto batteries and have lasted 6 or more years.

Should I be in any way concerned about my batteries ? I certainly don't want to throw money away and replace them unnecessarily. On the other hand I don't want to find myself in a situation where they suddenly fail me.

Just what do others recommend as a 'battery check' to indicate they need replacing ?

This is kind of like not really knowing when my computer's SSD (Solid State Device) is reaching its end-of-life due to its finite number of write cycles remaining. Some people say the life-span of a quality SSD will outlive the computer. However, this isn't true for marine batteries (mind you, wish it was :roll: ).
 
Barry:

Other's will be more knowledge about how to test battery strength and longevity but I do have one kernel of information I recall from the depths of my boating past. I've read and have been told that when one battery goes you should replace all of your batteries at one time. As I recall if you only replace one battery (say you have 4) then the 3 remaining batteries, which are weaker then the new battery, will begin to draw from the stronger source and therefore shorten the life of the new battery. Based on my knowledge replace all batteries at the same time.
 
Geeeesh... I checked battery levels today and had a 1 gallon jug of distilled water on hand. I topped up all 24 cells and my 1 gallon jug was emptied.... This meant on average each cell required around 5.3 fluid oz each. This was a complete surprise to me as this is first time I've had to add fluid.

Thank goodness none of the plates were exposed.

I guess I'm going to be checking more frequently. 😉
 
Not to worry.
Keep the water levels up.
When one battery finally 'fails' you will know it.

On replacing all 4 batteries at the same time there is more than one answer.
Certainly you can replace all 4 batteries and be done with it. (not necessarily a bad solution)
We have several thousands of dollars of batteries around the farm. Just replacing them to feel good, costs more than I would feel good about.
What I do is use a battery load tester to evaluate the function of each individual battery (can be ordered on line or found at auto stores) and do a resting voltage test.

You have 3 battery banks. (R25 - ymmv)
The two house batteries are a bank.
The thruster battery is it's own bank.
And the engine battery is it's own bank.
Your 3 bank charger charges each bank separately.

I would replace all the batteries in a bank based on the load test and the resting voltage test.
If all batteries in a bank test GOOD, you are done.
Follow the graph on your load tester - if one battery tests BAD it is time for a new bank.

If one tests sorta OK, then the next step is to measure the resting voltage.
First put a good charge on the battery(s) and then remove the Positive battery clamp(s) so that the battery is "unhooked" and let it set for 24 hours or more then check the resting voltage.
12.60 or higher is good ( a new battery will hold a charge at 12.68 to 12.74 volts)
12.50 is a 90% battery, or less, and getting long in the tooth and not holding a full charge and will need replacement soon.
Below 12.50 is replacement time, now.
 
Also see my post at:

gallery2.php?g2_itemId=31086

It is a "crutch" that I developed because: 1. Ranger did not tie both batteries in our R21-EC to the battery switch; 2. Ranger did not install a 2-battery charger in the R21s when our was built (an induced field from nearby lightning strike and I have since remedied that).

You can easily jump a "hot" battery to a discharged one for short periods of time as a "jump start" even if they can't be combined at a switch. As explained, you only need one jumper since all the grounds are tied together in the system by the factory. (Use normal jump start procedures against a hydrogen explosion, of course.)

The crux of the matter is that I replace when required, not en masse.
 
I learned a lot from this post that would have come in handy with a car battery issue we had over the winter. It will be good to know in the future for the boat and the cars alike. Battery load testers look like reasonably priced items, as tools go. Thanks all.

Gini
 
Hi Barry;

i came across the following intriguing article/website about restoring your battery, and extending the life of your new batteries. I will be giving it a try with my 3.5 yr old batteries as they slowly fade. Has anyone else tried this?

http://www.saers.com/recorder/craig/Tur ... a2SO4.html

by the way, sodium sulphate is commonly known as glauber's salt, which is easily available.
,
Cheers

Norm on Blue Socks
 
If contaminating the acid charge in your lead/acid battery with a salt was good, ALL batteries would have it added during manufacture.
They do not, ergo?

And notice the guy wants to sell you something :roll:
 
This is for Gin and any other new Tug owners who might not have the battery skills of some of the veterans on this post. A simple explanation of the care and feeding of your batteries:

http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm

I got this from an extended battery discussion on this site some time ago. A useful bookmark.

Jeff
 
Jeff, thanks! That looks like an amazing primer. I can definitely use the education. I plan to print it and read it on the way to Seattle today for our two-day boat orientation, which begins tomorrow 😀 . Much obliged.

Gini
 
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