Shower sump full / overflowing - pump inoperative

[dbsea]

Came to check on the boat after all the cold and found that my shower sump box is full / slightly overflowing and the shower sump isn’t working. My dehumidifier had been draining into the shower drain, hence the water in the box. Checked the fuse, all good there. Manually pumped it out using a hand pump into a bucket. What else to check and do I need to replace the whole box or just components? In my c-30 it’s very hard to get at the 4th screw on the top of the box with any of the tools I have…

 

[Capt’nKarl]

You probably only need to replace the pump assuming everything was working normally before now. Something to consider. A couple of the screws on our shower box are hard to reach as well so I took them out and now use gorilla tape in their place. Seems to hold just as well as the screws did and a lot easier to get to. Hopefully that won’t be too hard to do on your box. Good thing you came and checked things out when you did!
Cheers

 

[Brian B]

An offset Phillips head screwdriver may help in getting that last screw out. The float switch may just need to be cleaned from hair and soap scum. Also clean out the strainer in the box.

 

[fishheadbarandgrill]

Probably just a bad float switch. Easy to swap out.

 

[dbsea]

Thanks all. Got a new pump and float switch, and an offset screwdriver. Love all the help from this forum!

 

[dbsea]

It's worth noting for this forum that Rule has discontinued the shower drain box (model 98a) in favor of a redesign (98b), that has much easier to replace components, improved strainer design, and a gasket-sealed clip-on lid to prevent leaks. I'm going to replace the whole box as it's nearly the same price as a new pump/float switch.

 

[j&lgray]

Having done battle several times with the sump pump and float switch issues. I moved to a manual switch that is easy to use. Start a shower, turn on the pump, end the shower, turn off the pump. FYI, these type of pumps can run while dry for short times.

Two years and lots of use later, no battles with the sump pump.

 

[S@LTD]

Ours too went out when the boat was new. I think we had maybe 6-8 nights before it happened. It was replaced under warranty, and do to the known issue of these pumps failing, the dealer cut a portion of the lip with a jig saw under the floor cover just a few inches to provide access to the screw and make removing the box easy. It does not effect function but has since made it easy to access and remove as we have had to do it a couple times since.

 

[Chimo]

When our got plugged last year after months of non-use I poured some Liquid Plumber down the drain. 10 minutes later the pump came free and pumped overboard. I put a bunch of hot water down and it ended up looking clean as a whistle and working fine.

 

[dbsea]

glad to know I'm not the only one who's dealt with this! Have the pump / float switch in hand, just waiting on the offset screwdriver. The local hardware store is going out of business and it's a surprisingly hard to find item... Amazon to the rescue.

 

[NwRecon]

Great thread. My auto float switch failed and I researched the possibility of replacing with an upgrade or changing to a switched like mentioned. Both were good options, but I like to make things work as designed at least to try out for a while and since purchasing the R23 last August, I decided to go with replacing the float. It was not a difficult job since the front plastic L bracket was broke off the box and the rear bracket was missing the screw. I think the old owner had been in there before me. Because the box was not mounted to the floor panel, it was easy to pull forward so I could get to the four screws on the top cover. I did not have my mini Phillips screw driver (one inch tall) that I bought years ago from some tool truck, so I was happy to be able to move the box forward. I made a quick trip to the supply store for some wire heat shrink butt connectors with sealant (marine grade), I also picked up a battery tie-down strap. Using two stainless screws and small flat washers, I screwed the strap down to the rear box mounting hole in the floor. Pushed the box back against it and ran the strap over the top of the box and down to the front screw hole in the floor.

The strap is two piece that snaps together and has a buckle to tighten the box to the floor just like a battery. This way future removal with a normal Phillips screw driver will be easy. Tested and all works good now, plus any water that may leak from the head or sink will auto pump out. Another plus is the factory information is carried in my soft RT briefcase and any future owner will not need to hunt for documentation on the shower pump operation. Just offering another view and option.

 

[Brian98133]

The use of drain cleaners such as Liquid Plumber will certainly clean the sump and pump and subsequent out-lines... However, speaking as a "Solid" plumber, the chemicals in drain cleaners can and will speed up the deterioration of rubber components (motor seals, etc.), so I always recommend against using these products when possible. I've seen lots of damage done in my many (maybe too many!) years of being a plumber. However, running lots of water after is a good idea!

I use an bio-enzyme product every couple months, which is completely harmless yet breaks down the 'goo' that likes to grow in these environments.

Keep in mind that this is a 'maintenance' thing, and not recommended if there is already a failure of some sort. I've been doing this for many years on a few different boats, and the shower/lav sump has always stayed nice and clean - and odor free! 😀

 

[GaylesFaerie]

If you elect to keep and maintain your current setup, you may find this helpful:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=19204&sid=bf696a49d18a9da49b6f1277898c4144#p125318

 

[dbsea]

Finally got the lid off with the offset screwdriver and flicked the float manually, and both seem to work! The float is probably gummed up. I’ll follow your directions to clean it… thank you.