blifland
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2015
- Messages
- 53
- Fluid Motion Model
- R-25 SC
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLR2509K011
- Non-Fluid Motion Model
- MacGregor 26M trailersail 50hp Evinrude
- Vessel Name
- KEEP ON TUGGIN
aft thruster motor removal - some photos in my album
Helpful on our 2011 25SC: had no help on this job
Measurements approximate – boat is 950 miles away
1. much easier to use two Ranger supplied ratchets at same time – one in each bolt – just keep pulling the motor back as you unscrew – the ratchets will not bind if the motor is pulled away from the gear-leg housing.
2. I used a heat gun to help remove the scupper hose (outflow end only) and secured it aside.
3. after initially getting the motor out (disconnected larger cables at battery) – added 2 u-bolt straps to two of the protruding bolts on the motor cover (maybe 9 and 3 o’clock positions). Put a rope through the two unused holes on the straps. The motor balanced very nicely with a hook holding center of the rope – made it much easier to hold the motor in position to re-attach.
4. used a 2 x ½ “ board (about 36” long) and another u-bolt strap to hold motor – using a 1.5” or so webbing strap with a hook that attaches to the motor rope. The webbing strap is secured between the board and the u-bolt strap so the motor height can be adjusted with the screws/nuts holding the u-bolt strap to the board. The board lays across the aft and port combings – nothing tying it down.
Will replace the motor rope with a stainless cable or something else if I have to remove the motor again – for now the rope stays on motor. The board with strap/hook kept on the boat – easy to store.
Helpful on our 2011 25SC: had no help on this job
Measurements approximate – boat is 950 miles away
1. much easier to use two Ranger supplied ratchets at same time – one in each bolt – just keep pulling the motor back as you unscrew – the ratchets will not bind if the motor is pulled away from the gear-leg housing.
2. I used a heat gun to help remove the scupper hose (outflow end only) and secured it aside.
3. after initially getting the motor out (disconnected larger cables at battery) – added 2 u-bolt straps to two of the protruding bolts on the motor cover (maybe 9 and 3 o’clock positions). Put a rope through the two unused holes on the straps. The motor balanced very nicely with a hook holding center of the rope – made it much easier to hold the motor in position to re-attach.
4. used a 2 x ½ “ board (about 36” long) and another u-bolt strap to hold motor – using a 1.5” or so webbing strap with a hook that attaches to the motor rope. The webbing strap is secured between the board and the u-bolt strap so the motor height can be adjusted with the screws/nuts holding the u-bolt strap to the board. The board lays across the aft and port combings – nothing tying it down.
Will replace the motor rope with a stainless cable or something else if I have to remove the motor again – for now the rope stays on motor. The board with strap/hook kept on the boat – easy to store.