Side power thrusters

[Tugboat Bob]

I have a 2013 Ranger Tug 27 with sidewinder thrusters. The stern thruster is giving me problems and I called the company in an attempt to trouble shoot the problem. That particular year the thruster has a cover which is attached by about 20 nuts and bolts. I can get off the top and side ones but can’t reach the bottom ones because of the difficulty in access. It’s way down in the bilge. The next step is to remove the holding tank unless anyone else has any ideas. Thanks for the tips

 

[Red Raven]

Tugboat Bob,

You should able to pull the whole thruster motor out to work on it. Remove the power and controller cables and then remove the two Allen head cap screws with the tiny little Allen ratchet that was provided with the boat. That is can all be done while in the water.

What are your thruster problem symptoms?

Curt

 

[Tugboat Bob]

I’ll have to look into pulling the whole motor while the boat is in the water.
Thx for the tip.

 

[knotflying]

Pulling it out is the easy part. Getting it back in is a bit more difficult. You should have a special ratchet and hex bit that came with the thruster. You will need that to remove and reinstall. When reinstalling I made a stud that I inserted on the starboard bolt hole to help align the unit while reassembling. Make sure motor shaft shear pin is aligned with leg slot. I made up a harness and strap up to stern rail to support unit while securing it. I installed port bolt first and then removed starboard stud and bolted that side. In and out took about 2 hours, I hope you like working upside down!

 

[doke01]

Search on here on how to get it out. You can't really pull the grey water tank, too many restrictions (might be possible on the 27 but definitely NOT on the 25). You can do a lot of testing before you do the work. https://www.jpcdirect.com/side-power-thruster-trouble-shooting-guide/ The one you have is a sealed verion for use with gasoline engines, but is used on the Rangers to prevent water intrusion. Some instructions will tell you to send that model to the manufacturer, but if you are not using gasoline on your boat you can do the work yourself. It is the same on the interior as the link above and you follow the same process. It could be the connector, joysticks or even the front thruster depending on what is happening. If it is the solenoid or control module in the thruster you have to take it out. I don't envy you at all. Any corrosion will lock those bolts attaching it to the hull on. Mine was so bad I had to remove the exterior thruster to get to the bolts and cut them off.

You can pull the motor in the water, but do take care. Find a really skinny kid to help.

What are the symptoms you are seeing?

 

[knotflying]

Your description of "trouble" is vague. Depending on the issue I would check the joystick and the wire connector that would be possible laying on top of the waste tank.

 

[thewatkins48]

We have a 2014 R27. Saltwater encroached into the stern thruster last year. I removed it and had a mechanic look at it. The innards were completely corroded. The mechanic I talked to would not work on it until the blackwater tank was removed. There's a job nobody is clamoring to do. Ordered a new thruster and installed it myself.
Ranger Tug furnishes a small offset screwdriver. I have a small needle nosed vise grip that grabbed the offset screwdriver nicely. It gives you just enough extension that you are not completely upside down. It's a slog,but can be done. The first mate got some interesting photos with my feet kicking in the breeze.

By the way, the thruster comes with a spacer for the main shaft. You don't need it on the 27. Sidepower customer service is excellent. Don't hesitate to call.

 

[Tugboat Bob]

Thank you all for your helpful suggestions. With the help of my 120lb first mate I was able to remove the 2 Allen screws and remove the motor. Having purchased the boat 2nd hand I didn’t have the special tool to remove those Allen screws. I was thinking of replacing them with bolts of the same thread so I can get an open end wrench on them easier than struggling with those Allen screws. Now the question is whether I troubleshoot the motor myself or send it back to the company. The company is very friendly and I’m waiting for a call back.
Thanks again for all your help

 

[Osprey]

My choice was to stay with the original screw design. The “special wrench” is available from Amazon for $14. Search “Chapman Tools” to find what you need. You can get only the wrench, or better, purchase one of the Chapman sets with wrench and bits. If you decide to repair the thruster yourself, parts are available online from Fisheries Marine located in Seattle.

 

[dbsea]

My choice was to stay with the original screw design. The “special wrench” is available from Amazon for $14. Search “Chapman Tools” to find what you need. You can get only the wrench, or better, purchase one of the Chapman sets with wrench and bits. If you decide to repair the thruster yourself, parts are available online from Fisheries Marine located in Seattle.

Is the one from Chapman actually the same? Looks like its open on the front/back side and the bits that come with those sets go all the way through. i'd worry that the tolerance of the bit sticking out on the backside would make it not fit. Has the chapman wrench worked for you? The imtra one looks like it is completely flat/closed on the backside.

 

[Osprey]

It is the same and yes it has worked for me. I have had the rear thruster out 3 times over the years. The direction of torque (i.e . to tighten or loosed a bolt or screw) depends on from which side you insert the bit. I like a suggestion from Red Raven that one uses two such wrench. One wrench on each bolt to make it easier to adjust the two bolts alternatively, a few turns at a time. This method significantly reduces the limited clearance concern.