Simple stuffing box splash guard

[jaredjensen]

Our new-to-us 2012 R29 came with some engine corrosion, presumably from stuffing box spray. Surveyor recommended a splash guard, and I finally got around to making one last weekend from a $15 commercial cutting board and cheapo slide bolts I had lying around. Will replace those with SS versions once they start rusting. I'll probably wait until it warms up a bit before cleaning up the engine corrosion and repainting.

http://www.tugnuts.com/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=71172

 

[knotflying]

Nice job. You should check your packing nut tightness as well. One drip every 20 seconds while shaft is turning. This should give you just a small amount of splash off the shaft.

 

[BB marine]

I made one similar to yours. It snaps in place for easy inspection. .060 thick marine composite material.

 

[tlkenyon]

Here is another cost effective solution. I took a half-gallon milk jug and trimmed it to fit. It is lightweight, easily removable and very easily replaced. Worked for 6,000 miles on out Great Loop.

 

[TugScout]

Looks great!! Unfortunately now I have one more project to add to my list. 🙂

Cheers,
Mark

 

[bill46]

Properly adjusted should not need splash guard. 3 drops a minute is not going to splash. Just rinse with fresh water every few months - good way to test pump.

 

[tlkenyon]

Properly adjusted, probably no splash. In the real world, there is some flinging of water and it eventually coats adjacent areas with salt (obviously in salty water). Just saves a mess....

 

[BB marine]

Properly adjusted should not need splash guard. 3 drops a minute is not going to splash. Just rinse with fresh water every few months - good way to test pump.

I have my packing adjusted to 2 to 3 drips a minute at the dock in gear. When under way at 2250rpm or above the is no visual drips. The water is slung off the shaft and for the most part atomized. Once in a while it doesn't atomize and slings small amounts of spray. In salt water boating this over a period of time cause cause damage to electrical connections and components. This is common on any inboard boat that is why Dripless seals are used and now an industry standard for inboard boats. The Ranger Tug /Cutwater design puts the shaft packing gland very close to the transmission, rear engine mounts, the engines electronic control module. The splash guard is just a proactive preventative maintenance component that works. You use a reactive method clean up the salt and corrosion after it happens that works too. Many do nothing until there is a failure. I like to stay proactive with preventative maintenance.

 

[jaredjensen]

You should check your packing nut tightness as well. One drip every 20 seconds while shaft is turning. This should give you just a small amount of splash off the shaft.

It seems to be adjusted correctly now, but clearly there was more water around the gearbox area from something at some point that created corrosion, which will be super fun cleaning up. So this is really preventative. I check the engine compartment before/after every trip, but don't always watch the shaft with the engine running.

 

[vertigo]

You should check your packing nut tightness as well. One drip every 20 seconds while shaft is turning. This should give you just a small amount of splash off the shaft.

It seems to be adjusted correctly now, but clearly there was more water around the gearbox area from something at some point that created corrosion, which will be super fun cleaning up. So this is really preventative. I check the engine compartment before/after every trip, but don't always watch the shaft with the engine running.

I too had the pleasure of cleaning up corrosion and assorted unhappiness from a previously-unchecked and unadjusted shaft packing on our R-29. But, with simple and appropriate adjustment, there is now no more than a predictable drip every 15-20 seconds while underway at economy cruise power. No need for any splash guard, and I probably won't add one now, as that might allow me to ignore periodic adjustments.

 

[vertigo]

Here is another cost effective solution. I took a half-gallon milk jug and trimmed it to fit. It is lightweight, easily removable and very easily replaced. Worked for 6,000 miles on out Great Loop.

That's my kind of engineering solution! :geek:

 

[jaredjensen]

I too had the pleasure of cleaning up corrosion and assorted unhappiness from a previously-unchecked and unadjusted shaft packing on our R-29.

Got any tips for cleaning it up? I was planning to knock all the loose stuff off with a hand brush and drill attachment brush, then hit the engine mounts with Corroseal and the gearbox with marine grade Rust-Oleum.

 

[vertigo]

I too had the pleasure of cleaning up corrosion and assorted unhappiness from a previously-unchecked and unadjusted shaft packing on our R-29.

Got any tips for cleaning it up? I was planning to knock all the loose stuff off with a hand brush and drill attachment brush, then hit the engine mounts with Corroseal and the gearbox with marine grade Rust-Oleum.

That's the ticket!