Solar controller wiring

Red Raven

Coupeville, Wa
Joined
May 14, 2015
Messages
1,853
Location
Whidbey Island, Wa
Fluid Motion Model
R-27 Classic
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2734C414
Vessel Name
Red Raven
MMSI Number
338190767
I solved an issue I have had since acquiring our 2014 R27 that some of you make want to check for.

Our boat's batteries are wired as; 1 = Engine Start, 2 = House, 3 = Thruster. The solar controller was also wired 1= Start, 2=House. Unfortunately, the solar controller assumes 1 is the House and 2 is the Start. The result is when in the 90:10 setting 90% of the solar charge goes to the Start and only 10% goes to the House.

I was aware of this since discovering it last winter but I felt that it wouldn't matter as the ACRs would combine them anyway. I have since been able to confirm that the ACRs do not close unless the sun is really bright. Needless to say, on cloudy and rainy days I was getting very little solar charge to the house. I added a second solar panel this winter but did not see the performance expected which led me to dig in further. I have since rewired the solar controller to have the house on 1 and Start on 2. This has resulted in dramatic improvement in performance. This issue may also have contributed to the early failure of our house batteries after only 2.5 years.

I know the newer boats have the House as 1 and Start as 2 for all systems so it should be less confusing and less likely to be miswired. Hopefully mine was a one-off. If your boat has the House wired as battery 2 and you have a solar panel you may want to check that the House is number 1 at the solar controller. The fastest way to check is to run the microwave off the inverter and see which battery voltage drops.
 
Curt,
Thanks for the heads up. My boat also was mis-wired. I switched the leads from the controller to the batteries to correct.
 
You're welcome Larry. Glad I could help. Unfortunately I have heard of several others that were miswired as well. I think you will find much better performance.
 
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