Solar panel controller-where is it?

[GaylesFaerie]

I can't quite tell from the pictures or if you located it somewhere else, but I believe you should have an inline fuse between the controller and the panel on the hot lead. HTH, Gary

 

[briandunnington]

I can't quite tell from the pictures or if you located it somewhere else, but I believe you should have an inline fuse between the controller and the panel on the hot lead. HTH, Gary

Although I rerouted the wiring, it is all wired the same as before otherwise. The wires coming from the solar panel are just hooked up to the new controller, extended by about 3 feet to reach the new location, but otherwise just an unplug and replug. I dont believe there is a fuse on the input side from the factory (and the R23 manual does not show one).

There is an inline fuse on the output side (between controller and battery) - it is located right on top of the house battery bank and is the same one that was used originally from the factory.

So the net changes from the original configuration are:

- wires from solar panel extended a few feet
- wires to battery rerouted
- second set of outputs from old controller to engine battery bank removed (Victron only supports a single output)

Do other folks have a fuse on the input side between the panels and the controller? I thought that was one of the reasons that I always had to throw a blanket over the panel when working on it - there is no other way to disable the flow of electricity from the panel.

 

[GaylesFaerie]

...There is an inline fuse on the output side (between controller and battery)...

Yes as there should be. However, for the input side, just because there wasn't one installed between the controller and panel doesn't necessarily mean it is installed correctly. That hot lead is basically unprotected as is the controller from over-amps from the panel or a short from another wire onto the hot lead in a harness bundle. HTH, Gary

 

[Hamster]

However, for the input side, just because there wasn't one installed between the controller and panel doesn't necessarily mean it is installed correctly. That hot lead is basically unprotected as is the controller from over-amps from the panel or a short from another wire onto the hot lead in a harness bundle. HTH, Gary

The folks at Custom Marine Products (https://www.custommarineproducts.com/) suggest installing a switch between the panel and the controller for this reason.

 

[Pandion]

Do other folks have a fuse on the input side between the panels and the controller? I thought that was one of the reasons that I always had to throw a blanket over the panel when working on it - there is no other way to disable the flow of electricity from the panel.

ABYC standards are a good place to start when trying to figure out if the wire between a solar panel and a controller should be fused. They consider a solar panel to be a self-limiting device, meaning it can only output a known maximum amperage. As long as the wire is big enough to carry the maximum short-circuit current the panel(s) can produce, ABYC does not require a fuse between the panel and controller.

Your R23 has 10 gauge wire between the panel and controller. 10 gauge wire with 105c insulation is rated to carry 60 amps maximum (but this will be lower depending on length-of-run, wires in bundle, etc.). Your self-described "anemic" 90-watt panel likely has a short-circuit current of around 6 to 6.5 amps, meaning that's all it can produce in a worst-case scenario. Your wire can handle that continuously, so no fuse is needed to protect the wire.

In systems that use multiple panels wired in parallel (multiplying the amps) or undersized wire, a fuse could be needed.