solar panel for R23

[joelcop]

I am the proud owner of a new R23. My first project was cutting and hinging the bathroom door. Now I am ready to install solar panels. Can someone who has the factory installed panels send pictures of their mounting and how the cord enters the boat? What size and make are the factory panels?
Has anyone used a different mounting location than the factory installation?
Any advice on routing the wire from the roof to the batteries would be appreciated.

Joel Coplowitz
R23 Nosail
Ft. Laud., Fl
joelcop1@gmail.com

 

[az9133bm]

I posted pictures of the factory installation. See our Photo Album.

We ran coaxial cable from the mast to our TV in the berth so we have experience in routing wire in the R-23. The difficult part of this job is routing the wire from the stack to the bilge. It requires removing many of your cabin equipment, panels, and decorative pieces. It will test your COURAGE, patience and creativity. The good news is that you'll learn a lot about what is behind the panels and how the boat was built...and vacuum a lot (surprisingly) of construction debris from previously inaccessible areas; particularly in the bilge below the refer.

Starboard side wire-way and galley light must be removed to facilitate snaking wires through overhead. (See pictures below) This is the view standing at the galley sink looking up after the decorative panel is removed. Trust us...access through the removed light fixture is the KEY to getting the wires around the sharp downward curve at this location. Starboard side wire-way cover must be removed VERY carefully; the factory used brad staples...? We reinstalled with counter-sunk discreet stainless screws for ease of future removal.

Be ready for your cabin to look like this...just to run the wires. Notice that removing the center-line trim and hatch trim above the galley was necessary. The refer also must be removed (not shown). To remove the refer: 1. Remove door and all door hinges/brackets. 2. Place ~18" x ~30" moderately thick cardboard on cabin floor. 3. Remove four screws around outer frame. 4. Gently slide refer out and onto the cardboard. 5. Gently slide cardboard/refer assembly aft (there is plenty of power cord available to avoid having to disconnect). The refer will slide completely out of the way of the cavity. Be bold, climb into the cavity and look around!

Once you're behind the refer you have clear access to most of the boat.

Good luck and happy snaking!

George

 

[joelcop]

Thanks so much for the reply and detailed pictures.
I wonder if I can push wire through where wires from mast enter rather than following the factory install.
I planned on running the wire on the port side to the batteries. Have you torn that side apart to see where the wire can be routed?

You gave me ideas for a few more projects from your gallery.
Any plans to visit south Florida? I can put you to work. 😀

Joel

 

[az9133bm]

Joel,

Likely, you will not be able to "push" the wires through the existing stuffing box. You'll need to disassemble the stuffing box and widen the hole in the rubber plug and gaskets to accommodate the additional diameter needed for the new wiring. Consider possible interference when running such strong DC current (solar panel cables) pinched tightly to existing radar or antenna cables at that point.

We didn't remove the port side port-hole panel/cover but noticed (by viewing from the overhead void) that no wires go in that direction. We suspect that route dead-ends in the hull liner. You could possibly drill it out from the Pullman berth below but that's uncharted territory. All overhead wiring goes to starboard but our boat is an early production unit so it's likely there are differences. Once you remove the overhead trim panel you can plot your course.

Thanks for viewing our projects. We feel these modifications to this little boat make it comfortable, safe, and functional for cruises up to a week long for two people.

No plans for Florida currently but someday we'll loop it.

Let us know if you have other questions.

George

 

[joelcop]

It turned out the fishing the wire was a piece of cake.
I dropped three panels and one light and wound up in the port lazarette!
I posted pictures in my photo album. (figuring out how to do this was a lot harder than fishing the wire)
Joel

 

[ShortCut]

After resolving the mechanical issues of solar installation, there are still some electrical issues to think about. One is whether or not to pay the extra money for an MPPT controller. I started with the cheaper PWM controller, but eventually switched to MPPT. While anchored I wanted to be sure the refrigerator and lighting needs would always be satisfied no matter how many days we remained anchored. MPPT delivers more power and is definitely better, and in my opinion, well worth the added cost.

Another issue is how to keep all 4 batteries charged during months of storage without access to shore power. After working out a number of possible solutions, I finally realized that the problem is already solved with the ACRs. By connecting solar to the house batteries, they will be the first to be fully charged. The ACRs will then switch in to charge the other batteries.

The biggest potential problem is that of shadows. In a hypothetical case where all solar cells are connected is series, all it takes is one small shadow (1 or 2 square inches) to block up to 100% of your power. Radar sometimes provides a big shadow, but don't forget to look at small potential shadows too. Parallel panels or parallel sections within the panels will help produce some power while portions are in the shade.

Marshall

 

[joelcop]

I opted for a cheap pwm solar controller for now. I'll see how my 100 watt panel handles the refrigerator and lights. Being in south Florida I should be ok.
I did get a more efficient monocrystalline panel rather than the polycrystalline that the factory supplies.

 

[SgtAlf]

You gave me ideas for a few more projects from your gallery.

You guys are killing me! Do you realize how much work I have to do now! Not to mention the $$$!
Kidding aside, Shortcut, your spare anchor rode is under the floor and aft of the tilted mike crates? (I didn't even know there was space under there)
Do you have a picture of the table mounted in the cockpit?
I drilled the 3.5" hole in the anchor locker to change the bow roller... Busted my knuckles and burnt out a Dewalt.