Solar Panel System Install On R29 Classic

S

SkookumR29

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2019
Messages
81
Fluid Motion Model
C-288 C
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2902D011
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Gig Harbor Boat Works Melonseed
Vessel Name
Skookum
MMSI Number
367489440
Greetings RT Nation,

I plan to install a solar panel system on our 2011 R29 Classic this spring and am looking for some input from those of you that have solar systems already installed on your boats.

When the previous owner ordered the boat, he had the factory pre-wire it for solar, so wiring is coiled and wire-tied to the roof rack and wiring is also coiled up behind the engine and thruster batteries in the aft port corner of the boat. Now I am looking for help in understanding how the rest of the solar system on an R29 should be configured. Rich in RT parts has let me know that they do not do retail sales of solar components, but he did refer me to a suitable 150 watt panel manufactured by Solarland ($255.00). Solarland can also provide kits; for example a 180 watt kit that includes panel, solar charge controller/display, circuit breaker, enclosure, temp sensor and misc hardware for about $700. I know there are many other suppliers out there and I intend to continue my research.

Can anyone out there describe how your solar system is set up? I want to make sure all sensitive components stay dry, so info as to where the controller, display panel and breakers would be very helpful. Pictures would be great if you have them.
 
See this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=24&t=9821&p=95879&hilit=Solar+diy#p95879

Ed did a great install on his R25 Classic. Lots of photos on the link he provided.

Based on his explanations, BOM and wiring diagrams, I did a similar install on my R25 Classic 3 months ago. It’s easy and the fact that yours is prewired is a huge plus. Half the work (or more) is done! Shouldn’t be many differences between the R25 install or the R29 in terms of basic design and component types needed. Photos in my albums too.

I used a Grape Solar 180 watt panel from Home Depot. Grape Solar was very supportive regarding a few questions I had. I also used a Victron Energy SmartSolar 100/20 MPPT controller. The parts came to about $650 but that included about $80 for the wiring. Your controller needs may differ if you use a different watt rated panel. Panels now go as big as 300 watts!

Go for it!
 
The standard factory install is to use the sunsaver duo controller from morningstar - you can buy this yourself. this has two feeds. one to the house and one to the engine battery. This is a PWM controller and not the better MPPT controller type.

If I was installing a afresh I would install a MPPT based controller.Brands do matter. Morningstar is good. but I would select a Victron MPPT controllers. something like the https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510
you need to size these to the solar panels you plan to install. the Victron team are very helpful and their website is good including a calculator.

If you choose the Victron they have a mobile app that reads the data via bluetooth so you do not need to install a control unit in the bulkhead

if you are doing some wiring anyway, I would strongly suggest tidying up the house battery cables and install a shunt off the battery so you can install a proper battery monitor like this https://www.victronenergy.com/battery-monitors/bmv-712-smart

Most controllers only charge one output. which for us is the house batteries. The installed Bluesea ACR's will (somewhat crudely) manage the charge to the other batteries for you. so just wire it to the house battery. You will want to check where its cabled to in relation to the ACR. to my knowledge straight to the battery is fine.

if you are only installing 1 panel this is very simple. They key installation requirement: do not get any shadows on the panel. a tiny shadow will make the panel useless - so keep it away forward from the tower as much as possible

i dont know where the controller is on the R29. On the cutwater they put the morningstar on the hidden bulkhead by the second cave berth to keep it dry. the key installing reuqirement is to avoid voltage drops from the controller to the battery. (panel to controller distance is less important with an MPPT) This is solved with short runs and thick cable. This is probably the most important thing. you can place the controller anywhere its dry and out of the way.
 
Wow, I am blown away by how quickly I received such fantastic and detailed responses to my question this morning; the links to past threads, photos and links to equipment sites is exactly what I was looking for. I have never been a video gamer, or spent much time on social media - computer time has always been pretty much a business necessity for me - but I have to say that I am getting hooked on this TugNuts thing - what a great resource!

I will chew on all of this and may follow-up with another question or two, or three. The biggest question in my mind currently is, if I land the 12-volt +/- cabling downstream of the solar controller at either the ENGINE or START battery in the aft port corner of the boat - because that is where the pre-wired bundle is - will the HOUSE bank of four batteries on the other side of the boat receive charging current?

Thanks again.
 
You will want the solar controller connected to the house battery bank. If your ACRs are located near your wiring bundle you can make the house connection there (on the same side of the ACR that the house is currently connected).

That is how my solar controller is connected on my R27 Classic.

Curt
 
as red raven says the ACR will take care of this for you.

you want the solar on the house battery as this is the battery thats getting hammered by the onboard systems. Engine battery is only basically used for starting and the the thruster battery is charged when running the engine.
When the voltage on that battery reaches the ACR pre determined level it opens the switch and lets the other batteries be charged.
 
i should add that the biggest issues with the ACR's and a solar setup is the timeout delay on the ACR.

the issue is caused by shadows on the panel when swinging at anchor. if the swinging is putting a shadow on the panel on a regular basis like every 5 minutes (this has happened to me a number of times) the ACR doesnt close straight away, as a result all the batteries are connected but now instead of charging, the batteries are equalizing between each other. THis means that if you have a house battery that is low and an engine battery that was good. The house battery now pulls down the charge on the engine battery when the ACR is in the timeout window.

this can be worked around by using a design with DC to DC chargers instead of the ACR approach but thats a much bigger install change and seperae topic

I wouldnt worry about this in your case: just get the panel as away as possible from the radar tower.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

  • Tugnuts.com is the community hub for Ranger Tug, Cutwater, and Solara owners. Since its inception in 2008, the Tugnuts forum has grown into an active and thriving community of more than 9,000 members. It serves as both a meeting place for the best boating community online, and an invaluable archive of information.

  • User menu
Back
Top