Solar panels in a C242

[Dmullen]

I have two solar panels that I hope to add to my 2018 C242 Bimini. Has anyone done that and can give me any suggests on the best way to add these to our boat? How does one run the wire to the batteries? Does the Factory have any suggestions? I also have two Lithium batteries to replace my lead batteries. Not sure if its a direct swap or ?
Thanks.

 

[scross]

Ok, I’m not going to get into specifics for your situation because you did not provide information on your current solar system components.
1. Solar panels can be wired in series or in parallel. First, the two panels should be identical or really, really close to identical in their specs. Mixing a 140 watt panel with a 300 watt panel is not a good plan. Generally, but not always, you would wire them in parallel to increase the amperage output with out increasing the voltage output.
2. You don’t just wire solar panels to a battery. First the wiring, using MC4 connectors, needs to be properly sized for your panels power output and the distance from the panels to the solar controller.
3. You need a resettable fuse in the positive wire running from the solar panel(s) to the solar controller. The fuse should be rated at about 125% of open circuit amperage for each panel. Again, it makes a difference if your panels are wired in series or in parallel.
4. You need a solar controller that is sized to handle the amount of volts and amps the solar panels and wiring are delivering to it. I believe it may be possible to use two panels independently for the Morningstar Duo but I almost know nothing about that controller so I will let someone else chime in. But if I had a Morningstar Sunsaver PWM solar controller I would replace it with a more efficient MPPT controller like those from Victron Energy.
5. Then you need a second fuse between the solar controller and house battery you are connecting the solar system to. That fuse needs to be sized to match the power output from the controller. The wiring needs to be sized correctly as well.

As to a lithium battery being a direct plug and play replacement for AGM or flooded batteries the answer is NO! Lots of things need to be changed (battery charger settings, solar controller settings and possibly a new alternator, etc.). Not my area so I’ll let someone else explain what needs to be done.

For those solar experts out there, please correct me if I’ve misstated any of the technical aspects of doing this solar panel upgrade!

 

[CaspersCruiser]

.......I also have two Lithium batteries to replace my lead batteries. Not sure if its a direct swap.....

It’s definitely not a direct swap. All batteries— house, start, thruster— should be the same chemistry, i.e., flooded lead acid, AGM, or lithium, and the battery charger set for the proper chemistry. With only one battery charger it is simply not possible mix battery chemistries.

 

[Dmullen]

When I bought the boat they panels and Li batteries came with it. I'm glad you warned me about mixing the Li with the Pb.
Looks like I might be selling the Li batteries.
The panels came with everything. I really haven't done anything yet because of time. The panels are a 'like' pair with a controller, wire and fuse. I'm just not sure how to run the wire to the battery hatch from the Bimini. I don't like loose wires blowing in the wind! I know there are raceways but not sure how to access them.
Thanks for all the great replies...it is appreciated and helpful. If anyone knows how to get the wires from the Bimini to the battery area, let me know.

 

[GaylesFaerie]

scross has it right as far as I can tell. As far as getting wires to the battery, my panel wires have MC4 connectors, which connect to properly sized wiring with matching MC4 connectors (note each panel should have one male and one female connector). That second run of wiring is then bound using zip ties to my bimini frame in such a way as to let the bimini still fold up. The wire comes down the bimini support to a marine cable gland on the top surface of the cockpit gunnel (yup you'll need to drill a hole in the fiberglass). Once thru the gland the cable (positive and negative) is led to the solar controller with a positive inline fuse just in front of the controller (on my R27 the cable was led forward thru the generator lazarette into the quarter berth and then into the controller mounted on the bulkhead over the little folding desk). The controller output wires where then led back thru the generator lazarette and into the battery compartment where an inline positive fuse is installed on the positive wire connected to the positive bus bar and the negative is installed on the negative bus bar. Note: I don't know if this is common to all MPPT controllers but mine's instructions warn very clearly that the positive connections must be made in proper order to prevent damage to the controller: 1) with both positive fuses removed, make all wiring connections, 2) insert the positive fuse at the battery end which powers up the controller and allows it to sense what types of batteries it is connected to, and 3) only then install the fuse between the controller and the panels. Likewise, reverse the procedure when you need to disconnect the panels. Best practice: read all instructions for all components first to make note of all the gotchas. GF

 

[dgiles]

I would plan on wiring in series with a MPPT. Higher voltage vs higher amps is a much more efficient way to do it.

 

[Dmullen]

Are their any factory gunnel schematics for running wires on the C24? I'm looking for a way to run wires from the Bimini to the battery hatch.

 

[Bruce Moore]

Are their any factory gunnel schematics for running wires on the C24? I'm looking for a way to run wires from the Bimini to the battery hatch.

The C-24 owner manual may be helpful. I posted it in 2019.

Cheers,

Bruce

 

[Dmullen]

Bruce,
Thanks for the reply and schematic. I checked the owners manual, but my question is how do I get the wires from the Bimini area down to the batteries? Is there a raceway for the wires? I don't want to start drilling holes until I know if I'm drilling in the correct areas and know I can get them to the battery hatch.

 

[Bruce Moore]

You might contact your local Cutwater dealer, Sundance Yachts in Seattle. They would be the most familiar with post-factory modifications.

Cheers,

Bruce

 

[Dmullen]

Thanks..

 

[BB marine]

I would plan on wiring in series with a MPPT. Higher voltage vs higher amps is a much more efficient way to do it.

I am starting to put together a solar charging system for my boat. I have never used solar charging.I have read articles looked at panels and controllers. As is mentioned in this thread Series or Parallel panel wiring which is the best way. This seems to be controversial as to which is better. My thought is at the end I want the largest amperage output to charge the battery bank or banks. Explain your thoughts on why the series is better than the parallel panel configuration. This is not argumentative at all it is me trying to figure out which is the best way to install the panels for the biggest "bang for the buck"