Solar wiring

[Salty7]

I am the second owner of a 2012 25-SC. The stack on the roof has a white and a gray wire coming through the back of it. I see on other boats this is where the solar panel is connected. I would like to add a solar panel, where do those two, currently unconnected, wires coming out of the stack on my boat go? I have looked in the port rear lockers and they don't show up there. Do they change color to something else or do they terminate elsewhere? Is there a wiring diagram available for my boat? Thanks.

 

[knotflying]

Try looking at the bottom interior port side on the exit door from the cabin. Maybe even looking through the step hatch door on that side. I think they may run down the interior wall behind the panel and then into the engine and then over into the mass of wires in the port side lazarette. I doubt a wiring diagram prepared by Ranger will show the exact run.

 

[Salty7]

I've looked in the port side lazarette and in the pvc raceway coming across the engine compartment, nothing gray and white. There is a bundle of red and yellow rolled up in the lazarette with no label, not connected to anything. Knotflying is your solar wiring gray and a white to the controller in the lazarette?

 

[KennyMarrs]

I thought the wiring was red and yellow. I'd try a continuity test between the positive cable you found and the wiring on the roof.

 

[Salty7]

Thanks Kenny, I will try that. Is there a wiring diagram available with the color coding of the wiring for this model?

 

[knotflying]

I've looked in the port side lazarette and in the pvc raceway coming across the engine compartment, nothing gray and white. There is a bundle of red and yellow rolled up in the lazarette with no label, not connected to anything. Knotflying is your solar wiring gray and a white to the controller in the lazarette?

Mine are red and yellow. I would do the continuity test as Kenny suggests.

 

[Dale777]

Salty7,

I suggest using a Toner and Probe/Receiver kit to trace the wiring. I did a quick video in my garage on how to use such a kit to trace wiring. I bought my kit for very little 35-40 years ago when I was directing data communications, voice communications and computing services for a large international corporation. But, you can still buy one relatively cheaply on Amazon or at Home Depot. See these links:

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-2 ... 179&sr=8-3

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluke-Netwo ... 290922-_-N

I posted my simple How-To video on youtube at:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etqYW9l ... e=youtu.be

WARNING: Do NOT hook the Toner to any ENERGIZED (HOT) wiring. Check the wiring with a volt meter first for any voltage present.

 

[Salty7]

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I am taking off for 10 days to play on Kiki and enjoy the July 4th holiday. When I get back I will track this wiring down and let you all know what I find. I do have a Toner/Probe and I will go that route. I also have a Fluke meter and will go searching for continuity after I know there is no voltage on the unconnected wires in the port lazarette locker. I have already found two live circuits with wires just loose in the cockpit lockers, both port and starboard. Tracing back to the fuse boxes I discovered they were circuits for the 12 volt sockets which are sometimes installed for downriggers or pot pullers (not installed on my boat but wiring left live and loose). In my humble opinion Ranger Tug needs to pull the fuses on circuits which are not going to be used on a particular build. Clearly the wiring harness is made and installed to deal with any factory option possible. I am surprised that, so far, no detailed wiring diagram has been revealed to help me confirm which circuit is the rough-in for the solar circuit.

 

[Salty7]

I finally got back to work on completing my solar project. Yes, the wiring is the unlabeled red and yellow rolled up bundle in the forward port side cockpit locker. The wiring at the stack, which now appears as grey and white, is actually sun bleached red and yellow. I toned it all out and installed a Renogy 160 watt panel and their Voyager waterproof controller. Very happy with it, it is keeping the batteries charged with the refrigerator on. Total cost was about $325 including all the wiring, connectors and mounts taxed and delivered. Thanks to everyone for their advice and suggestions.