Source of Ignition Switch power on 2010 R-25

[captstu]

Today there was no power to the key switch. No red light when I turned the key, no "ignition" in the menu on the Garmin display, and clearly no ability to start.

I removed the switch and saw 7 volts with the switch off and 0 volts with it on. Clearly, a dirty connection, blown fuse, or something similar.

There is 12 volts at the test point in the engine control module and 12 volts at the connect relay.

Where does the ignition switch get is power? I don't see a fuse or connection on the wiring diagram - and before I bridge the switch to a new power source, I'd like to find and fix the problem.

Thank you

 

[knotflying]

Is your engine the 4by2-150? There are two wires that run to the engine battery that rung to the black box on the engine. They have to have perfect contact for power otherwise you will have problems. I would check those connections first. I know you say you have 12V at the control module, but these units are very particular to a good ground.

 

[captstu]

There is power on the 2 heavy wires that go into the ECM. I replaced both wire ring connectors with the correct size and fixed the intermittent condition that was causing ECM dropout.

There is 12 volts to the imput side of the 10 amp fuse within the ECM that protects the key circuit. This circuit is supposed to deliver power to the red 12 gauge wire on the back of the ignition switch.

The wire at the ignition switch end reads 7 volts with the key off ad 0 volts with the key on, clearly an open circuit between the fuse in the ECM and the key switch.

Ive tracked it to the starboard side of the engine compartment where the electronics box is - but haven't yet figured which wire comes from the console to that point and where the break is.

I'm reluctant to bypass the wire harness and feed 12 volts to the key switch - although the engine now runs fine when I do. Would like to find the original bad connection ad fix it.

Thanks!

 

[captstu]

I traced the power a bit further. On the starboard side of the engine compartment there are a zillion wires and about a dozen connectors.

One of these connectors is labeled HELM.

Plugged into that is a set of wires that disappear forward in the space between the engine and the head. In the Yanmar Engine Service Document PDF, there is a plug labeled X1 that corresponds with the HELM connector.

Wires A and B provide the + and neutral for the helm. At the connecter they show +12 volts. When the helm fuse is removed from the ECM, pins 1 and 2, corresponding to A and B show 0.

The wires coming from this connector are not the same shade and size as the corresponding wires at the helm ignition switch.

Where is the splice that joins the Yanmar provided cable from the ECM with the Ranger provided cable from the ignition switch?

I installed a temporary (20A breaker) power to the ignition switch but this, by necessity, comes from the HOUSE circuit, not the BATTERY circuit - so I'd like to find and fix the bad splice.

Thanks.

 

[knotflying]

If you don't hear from Ranger on this you may want to try pulling the refrigerator and see if you can find it back there.

 

[captstu]

Good plan, thank you.

I was thinking of running a new wire from the console to the connector labeled HELM on the starboard side, last place I could see good power.

It might be easier to pull the fridge.

I have the same problem with the just failed a/c cooling motor - leaves the controller as white jacketed wires and gets to the pump as a black sheathed cable.

I am replacing the pump today - it is leaking salt water so even if it isn't electrically bad, it is ready to go -- but I'd like one continuous run of wire from the pump to the source.

/Stu

 

[knotflying]

I suspect that the wire that controls the water pump on the A/C would come from the control box on top of the A/C compressor unit buried in the cave. This would be accessible by removing the panel in the back part of the cave and the panel at the head liner in the V-berth. I had to replace my compressor and I am pretty sure you will find that wire running out of the control box. I would also say that you may unfortunately find that the existing wire is zip tied along the run so fishing a new one through will be near impossible. Probably a nice conduit run through the cave back to the forward port lazzarette would be a solution and put a drag line for future runs.

 

[captstu]

The a/c was replaced last October. I tested both the voltage (122 Vac) and the current (3 spikes each time I turned on the breaker, then 0) at the control box.

The wire leaving the control box is white sheathed 14 gauge. The wire at the pump is black 16 gauge. It disappears under the head on the starboard Side.

Splice?

A new pump fixed it.

Spliced new pump to the old wire.

I prefer to minimize splices.




Stuart Bell
Ranger 25: Shearwater
(561) 352-1796