Space heaters and inverter circuit

[tranmkp]

Classic 27 - 1500 watt space heater on outlet port side setee. Shore power attached - I smelled something later in night - felt new Marinco chord. Warm not quite hot to touch. Hmmm

Did a google search and read that sometimes the inverter is in the circuit not inverting, just in the circuit and it’s possible that you can fry the inverter

Is this the case with rangers? Especially the classic 27?

Thanks


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[CruisingElvinRay]

If you have a separate inverter and charger, the inverter is not needed when connected to shore power. It serves no purpose in that case. The only time the inverter should be on is when you need 110V power and shore power is not available (it draws power from your 12V system).

If you have a combined inverter/charger, it gets more complicated, but you still don’t need the inverter function while on shore power. You only need the charging function.


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[GaylesFaerie]

What CruisingElvinRay said.

 

[tranmkp]

On Classic 27, inverter is stand alone - the question was if by chance it was wired into the 110circuit


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[Red Raven]

On the classic R27 there is a rotary transfer switch to switch between shore, generator, and inverter. If the switch is in the inverter position then, yes, the inverter is connected (“wired”) to the 120vac boat circuits. If this were the case, and: the inverter was turned on, the main AC breaker on, and any other breaker than the port side outlets (breaker for that outlet feeding heater) turned on, the inverter would be overloaded and blow the internal fuses (at a minimum).

If this is the case the good news is it may be only the fuses that blew. To replace the fuses (6ea x 35 Amp) the inverter must be removed from the starboard locker wall to access the screws to remove the cover.

If the rotary switch was not in the inverter position then, no, the inverter is not connected to the AC panel and thus not “wired” to the 120vac boat circuits. It should be in no danger of overload in this position unless the rotary switch has failed or is shorted somehow.

I hope this helps,

Curt

 

[tranmkp]

Yes does help - the rotary switch was in shore power position

Now with shore power off in not getting water pump - bilge - any 12v power save for head light and setee lights!$


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[tranmkp]

Updated

All shore power disconnected - rotary switch aft is set to house and engine - engine started and running -

Nothing on 12v master panel is working - 13+ battery indicated - only light is cabin head and setee - ?

Is there another breaker that I’m missing?


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[GaylesFaerie]

I believe there is another breaker in the port side cockpit locker under the four Red Service switches. I don't know the name of it but when it trips a small handle drops out. This must be pushed back in to reset the breaker. On my 2012 R27 the breaker is about 2" x 3" big and I believe it serves juice to the main DC panel at the helm.

You can see it below the "House" PDP in the following picture:

https://share.icloud.com/photos/071SguaXodB86MqD08kAsYl3Q

HTH,

Gary

 

[FlyMeAway]

One tip from years of cold-climate boat ownership:

Your circuits typically will allow you to run a single 1500W heater (~12.5-13.5A) on a single 15A circuit.

But, even if on the same circuit (and even better if your boat has multiple AC circuits), it is much better to run two 1500W heaters at the 750W setting (or two 750W max heaters). Many 1500W marine electric AC heaters have a 750W and 1350W setting.

The two 750W heaters won't always be running simultaneously. Having two heater fans is more efficient than just one heater fan. There is redundancy, so if one dies your boat may be colder but it might still be enough warmth to stay above freezing and/or inhibit mold growth.

YMMV but it could be cheaper, too. On my sailboat, when I switched from a single 1500W heater running at 1500W to two 1500W heaters at the 750W setting (I bought a second identical heater), set to the same "thermostat" setting as the single 1500W heater, the internal temp of my boat read about the same (I had a temp logger) but my electrical usage and bill dropped by about 10-15% in similar conditions (paid for the 2nd heater after a ~12 months of running it).