SpeedSeal for raw water impeller pump discussion

[baz]

Subject: SpeedSeal discussion

The product SpeedSeal is described here http://www.speedseal.com/SpeedsealLife/SpeedsealLife.html

For $100 spent on this product it would pay for itself quickly as an Impeller replacement kit cost around $50 for my R-21EC. In addition, if the SpeedSeal claim of extending the impeller lifespan by a factor of 2 then that would be an additional benefit. 🙂

Another aspect, although some may consider it to be trivial, is that with the SpeedSeal Teflon disc there could be less friction as the impeller turns and thus requiring less energy (ft-lbs) back to the engine for better fuel burn etc.

With the newer SpeedSeal Life it would seem to me that replacing the impeller is made much easier as well.

What do others think about this product.... good or bad ? Thanks.

 

[SGIDAVE]

Subject: SpeedSeal discussion

What do others think about this product.... good or bad ? Thanks.

Hello Barry,

I think it's VERY good.

Here are two other recent threads about SpeedSeal

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6296&p=44549&hilit=speedseal#p44549

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5999&p=42743&hilit=speedseal#p42743

Get the SpeedSeal and a Cooling Water flow sensor and you will be ALL SET! 😉

dave

 

[baz]

...snip... and a Cooling Water flow sensor and you will be ALL SET! 😉

dave

I note you've installed a Cooling water flow sensor.... what is the model and maybe post a web site Ref and cost and how an alarm was installed. Thanks.... 🙂

I'm waiting for a call-back from Alex in UK on his SpeedSeal product as I want to make sure I order the correct SpeedSeal model.... and that's why SpeedSeal does not provide online ordering... you have to call/contact them first so they can confirm r=they send the correct model to you. The brass adds some class to the engine bay as well.... Likeeeee that. :lol:

 

[SGIDAVE]

...snip... and a Cooling Water flow sensor and you will be ALL SET! 😉

dave

I note you've installed a Cooling water flow sensor.... what is the model and maybe post a web site Ref and cost and how an alarm was installed. Thanks.... 🙂

Here you go!

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6000

My 21EC with the Yanmar engine uses ¾" hoses, so I bought the 'kit' from Defender as shown here (http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=744093).

dave

 

[baz]

Thanks Dave.... appreciated. 🙂

 

[tuggin aweigh]

Has anyone installed or contemplating the installation of a speedseal on a Volvo D3.
Tuggin Aweigh

 

[baz]

...snip...
My 21EC with the Yanmar engine uses ¾" hoses, so I bought the 'kit' from Defender as shown here (http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=744093).

dave

Where did you locate the alarm red light and buzzer ?

 

[SGIDAVE]

...snip...
My 21EC with the Yanmar engine uses ¾" hoses, so I bought the 'kit' from Defender as shown here (http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=744093).

dave

Where did you locate the alarm red light and buzzer ?

Hello Barry,

I mounted mine port side of wheel like this:

And the buzzer is right behind the wheel just out of sight. It's a little cylindrical shaped gizmo about 1.25" dia x 0.75" high with 3 tiny wires emerging from the side of it. You only use TWO wires, the specific two being dependent upon whether you want continuous vs intermittent (WAA-short pause-WAA, etc) alarm sound. I used intermittent so it sounds clearly different from Yanmar alarm (which is continuous) for the other engine parameters. You use power from an ignition-switched source so it alarms every time you turn the 'start' key like the Yanmar alarm, so you KNOW it's working. I like it.

So buy some quality hose clamps - I like AWAB rolled-edge clamps like these:

and you'll be ready to rock and roll.

dave

 

[baz]

Hey.... as an aside.... my Ranger Tug decal on the center of my wheel is not centered. It's off some and wonder if there's a reason for this ? Maybe it to help with having the rudder at midship position... but dunno. 😉

 

[Captain Nice]

My Ranger Tug wheel sticker was off-center too. Kenny admitted frustration with this. He gave me an extra to try my luck. I carefully peeled-off the original and re-centered it. So far, so good.

CN

 

[baz]

...snip...
My 21EC with the Yanmar engine uses ¾" hoses, so I bought the 'kit' from Defender as shown here (http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=744093).

dave

Where did you locate the alarm red light and buzzer ?

Hello Barry,

I mounted mine port side of wheel like this:

And the buzzer is right behind the wheel just out of sight. It's a little cylindrical shaped gizmo about 1.25" dia x 0.75" high with 3 tiny wires emerging from the side of it. You only use TWO wires, the specific two being dependent upon whether you want continuous vs intermittent (WAA-short pause-WAA, etc) alarm sound. I used intermittent so it sounds clearly different from Yanmar alarm (which is continuous) for the other engine parameters. You use power from an ignition-switched source so it alarms every time you turn the 'start' key like the Yanmar alarm, so you KNOW it's working. I like it.

So buy some quality hose clamps - I like AWAB rolled-edge clamps like these:

and you'll be ready to rock and roll.

dave

How did you route the wiring from the engine box to the helm dash ?

 

[SGIDAVE]

How did you route the wiring from the engine box to the helm dash ?

I ran the wires along with the main engine bundle forward within the engine box then out the center hole in the forward engine box area. The wires then cross to STB side and pass behind the fridge. You will need to remove the fridge for this installation, as with most that use this routing for wires. Once behind the fridge, keep moving forward inside the STB console, under the engine controls then out and up behind the wheel. Easy peasy...mostly. I buy cable ties in bulk cuz it's a work in progress what with always 'improving' the wiring/accessory situation. 😉

I use some wire 'fishing' sticks that I initially bought for use in the house years ago. They sell them at Home Despot and other type places, like this -

The kind I have are green and come with (3) flexible 'sticks' which thread together. Each is approx 3' long. There are a couple 'ends' that thread onto the leading stick. I tape a loop into the wire to be 'fished' then stick the 'stick' in from behind the fridge till I get it to the engine box area, then put the wire loop onto the 'hook' on the end of the 'stick' then carefully pull it back. Easy peasy - in theory. The more you use them the better you will get. I used all three sticks when I ran the new Simrad transom transducer wire to the cockpit. That runs along the STB side of the boat all the way from the fuel tank to the console.

dave

 

[baz]

Thanks Dave.... getting back on topic here.... I'm wondering if installing the SpeedSeal does in any way void the Volvo new engine and/or extended warranty T&Cs ? Do you or anyone else know by chance ?

I spoke with Alex at SpeedSeal today and he did recommend the Life model as it includes a brass and teflon bearing disc which are supposed to provide the 2x impeller life span. He also indicated the engineering advice is to replace these discs every two years.