Steering is stiff

[KlaassyC]

On our recently purchased C28 the helm steering is very inconsistent. It moves easily for a few inches, then becomes very stiff, then easy again. Also, there are times when trying to keep the boat straight under acceleration that it requires a significant amount of correction. Yesterday it felt like an entire clockwise rotation to maintain a straight line even though I started out straight. This is my first inboard so is this just something to get used to? Or is there something wrong?
Our auxiliary steering station is much smoother although I only use it for trolling at slow speeds.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[it4llc]

Does it steer easier to one side versus the other when at speed? If so, I’d guess you may need a check valve added to the steering. We had to do that on our C28, which made a world of difference to the steering. If you search the forums for check valve, you’ll find a number of posts on this.

 

[Rocky]

As Klassy said, there is a known issue with the boat pulling to port due to an internal leak in the autopilot pump.

That is typically pretty consistent and frustratingly predictable. However, if your issue is intermittent, or at least not always the same, or jerky. I would try filling/bleeding the hydraulic steering. That can cause the issues you mention as well.

There are posts about the various ways to accomplish that as well.

Note- Even though the first issue is internal to the A/P pump - The issue shows up when the A/P is disengaged. The issue then typically "goes away" when on A/P.

Good luck!

Rocky

 

[KlaassyC]

It is definitely pulling to port and doesn’t affect operation when AP is engaged so I think you have identified the issue. I will start with bleeding the system then move to the check valve if that doesn’t resolve it. Thanks!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BB marine]

There is a step that can be taken before bleeding the system. This is from the manual:

The 1.2/2.0 L pump features a shutoff valve that isolates the pump from the hydraulic system for troubleshooting and repairing the system. When the shutoff valve is engaged, the boat steers normally, and the autopilot cannot control the steering system. When the shutoff valve is engaged, you can remove the pump from the system for repair without disconnecting any hydraulic lines.

If you do this first and the steering works correctly then bleeding the system is not needed. If you do this and the steering doesn't work correctly then Bleed the system and sea trial again. My bet is on the pump check valves have failed.

The shutoff valves are located on the front section of the valve block. (3) flat head screws.

 

[Gypsy]

My C28 had the same problem. On July 31, 2021 I wrote a summary of the problem, procedure to fix it, and photos of the pump and valve screws. I don't know how to tell you how to pull up my previous post, but, if in the SEARCH box you enter "Garmin Steering Problem - A Summary" you should find it.

 

[Bruce Moore]

You'll find Gypsy's write up here.

 

[KlaassyC]

Thanks everyone. I reached out to our dealer Port Boat House and they put me in touch with Garmin directly who is sending parts and a tech from Seattle to install the check valve kit under warranty. Apparently I’m just sneaking under the 5 year warranty and the Seattle dealer has done over a dozen similar repairs. Pretty impressed with Garmin’s support, considering I’m the second owner and it’s a 3 hour drive from Seattle to Vancouver BC for the work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[scross]

Well, add our 2017 C-28 to the long number of boats that needs an autopilot check valve. I just don’t understand why the prior owner didn’t get this done for free when it was under warranty. Garmin is not yet offering any support other than buy the kit at the $269 list price.

 

[it4llc]

Well, add our 2017 C-28 to the long number of boats that needs an autopilot check valve. I just don’t understand why the prior owner didn’t get this done for free when it was under warranty. Garmin is not yet offering any support other than buy the kit at the $269 list price.

We had ours done under warranty, but before I realized that it would all be covered, I sourced the actual check valve (Garmin 010-11203-10) from Garmin to try to do it myself. As a result, the check valve has been sitting in my pile of boat stuff for a while now. PM me if you are interested. It still needs all the hoses and connectors, but it might at least save some money on the expensive part.

 

[scross]

it4llc,
PM sent!