steering Problem

Gypsy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 16, 2021
Messages
143
Fluid Motion Model
R-21 EC
Hull Identification Number
USFMLC2804F
Vessel Name
Gypsy
I have a 2019 C28 with about 100 hrs. run time. I am experiencing a steering problem. In order to stay straight on course, I must continuously turn the wheel in a clockwise motion. As soon as I stop turning, the boat heads to port. Any input will be appreciated.

Bill Gaertner
 
Welcome to the ever growing club. I'm waiting for my second replacement steering pump to be installed. With less than 80 hours on the boat. At least it's under warranty.

The issue seems to be that the hydraulic lines from your helm(s) go through the OEM pump. There is at least one check valve in the pump that is 'supposed' to prevent back flow through the pump when the pump isn't steering. That's what fails.

There seem to be two fixes: upgrade the pump to a "smart pump" https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/107920"Smart Pump and the other is to bolt on an external check valve kit https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/783154/pn/010-11203-10 (I think this is the one).
 
I am going through this same thing. I use autopilot almost all of the time, so it doesn’t bother me all that much. But I can’t even imagine trying to drive the boat by hand at cruise for any length of time. I’m prepared with a screwdriver to close the lock screws in case autopilot ever gives out. I am trying to decide which route I want to go. I’m currently leaning towards the check valve, since the autopilot itself works fine and has no issue holding a heading.


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The check valve page says a properly trimmed system won’t need one. Wouldn’t that be the root problem?


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As one who has been through the A/P dilemma... I highly reccomdc the new Garmin check valve Kit. It cured the "Pull to port" problem and overall, the steering feels more robust. I was on my 3rd pump, and this check valve kit has been installed over a year and still feels great.

I hope that helps

Rocky
 
Rocky":2rk3wdjt said:
As one who has been through the A/P dilemma... I highly reccomdc the new Garmin check valve Kit. It cured the "Pull to port" problem and overall, the steering feels more robust. I was on my 3rd pump, and this check valve kit has been installed over a year and still feels great.

I hope that helps

Rocky

That is encouraging! I may go ahead and order the kit. Just wish it wasn’t a 5-8 week lead time. [emoji3]


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Gypsy":3czc6bi2 said:
I have a 2019 C28 with about 100 hrs. run time. I am experiencing a steering problem. In order to stay straight on course, I must continuously turn the wheel in a clockwise motion. As soon as I stop turning, the boat heads to port. Any input will be appreciated.

Bill Gaertner

Hello Bill,

When you say that the boat turns to port after stopping turning the wheel clockwise (strbd direction), what speed are you at? Also have you made sure that you dont have a leak or that the fluid level is correct? You should have anywhere between 4.5-5 turns from lock to lock on the wheel and should be stiff at the end. If not, I would make sure that your steering system is full of fluid, no air and no leaks. If there is a leak or no/low fluid level at higher speeds the prop wash forces the rudder over which causes the boat to turn hard to port.

Typically with a bad AP pump the boat wonders to one way or the other, when engaged the boat steers and holds a straight line. Hope this helps.

Thanks,
 
Kevin Lamont":14hvs97l said:
I would make sure that your steering system is full of fluid, no air and no leaks. If there is a leak or no/low fluid level at higher speeds the prop wash forces the rudder over which causes the boat to turn hard to port.

Typically with a bad AP pump the boat wonders to one way or the other, when engaged the boat steers and holds a straight line. Hope this helps.

Are there any special tools needed to bleed the air out of an R27-OB hydraulic steering? What's the specific hydraulic oil that Ranger Tug uses? This coming fall, I'd like to install isolation valves between the auto-pilot pump and the three hydraulic lines.
 
The check valve solves most of the problem. The other issue is that if the small fin on the lower unit is not angled correctly the boat will pull--its there to offset the effect of the prop rotation. Not a thing on twin outboards however. Just on single OB. If its straight in line, that is incorrect.
 
Oh and bleeding the system is complicated with the check valve. I'd suggest a pro that has the full pump set up ready to do it; there is a process for doing it in stages...
 
Submariner":3khjy893 said:
Kevin Lamont":3khjy893 said:
I would make sure that your steering system is full of fluid, no air and no leaks. If there is a leak or no/low fluid level at higher speeds the prop wash forces the rudder over which causes the boat to turn hard to port.

Typically with a bad AP pump the boat wonders to one way or the other, when engaged the boat steers and holds a straight line. Hope this helps.

Are there any special tools needed to bleed the air out of an R27-OB hydraulic steering? What's the specific hydraulic oil that Ranger Tug uses? This coming fall, I'd like to install isolation valves between the auto-pilot pump and the three hydraulic lines.

Hey there,

We use Uflex hydraulic steering fluid. Also the fin zinc should be straight on your boat, even with it turned to one side or the other this doesn't effect nor does it help with steering.

Thanks,
 
[Hey there,

We use Uflex hydraulic steering fluid. Also the fin zinc should be straight on your boat, even with it turned to one side or the other this doesn't effect nor does it help with steering.

Thanks,
Kevin Lamont
Ranger Tugs & Cutwater Boats][/quote]


R23 with Yamaha 200 single OB--the anode fin angle DOES affect steering. Spec is to offset it from straight; it comes from the factory with the offset. A twin OB--agreed its not relevant. And it would not exist on any inboard model. But...its significant on a single OB.
 
Kevin,
The system is full and no air in it. Problem is most noticeable at high speeds, but occurs at all speeds. Here is an indication that a check valve is not holding or the pump is bad. If I turn the wheel all the way to the right (what should be lock) it continues to slowly turn. It never comes to a solid lock. The same thing happens when I turn it lock to the left.

Bill Gaertner
 
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