Steering

[trailertrawlerkismet]

We have an R25OB with a Yamaha 250 outboard, right rotation. The steering is harder to manually steer to port and easier to starboard. I’ve read and been told this is normal. I’ve also read that one way to counter balance this is to adjust the outboard lower unit zinc trim tab, the one that is mounted just above the prop, towards the easier steering side. My guess is the little fin on the trim tab zinc helps correct the hard/soft side steering when one rotates it one way or the other. Has anyone had experience doing this and or offer other suggestions?

Jim F

 

[Submariner]

Yamaha updated the rudder zinc to a new and improved version that has no extended fin, and it’s also no longer adjustable port to starboard on my f300. I guess it didn’t really make much difference.


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[HookedUp]

I don't know if it would have made any difference, but I had planned to adjust mine due to the same issue. Found out that it's no longer adjustable.
When using the autopilot I often have to 'help' turn toward port. When I had picked a destination with the autopilot it would head toward the destination, but always was too far starboard, but when it gets close to the destination it would overcome the steering difficulty and head right to it. However, when trying to set to a particular degree it was usually off by 8 degrees to starboard.
Frustrating, but once I understood how to overcome the problem it's okay. However, on my 80 mile trek to the Gulf Stream I know it's causing more fuel burn unless I constantly adjust to port.
Funny that I never had any issue with my smaller boat with a 150 either driving manually or with autopilot, but the 250 sure wants to head to starboard regardless of the speed.

 

[Submariner]

That sounds to me like your hydraulic pump may be leaking fluid internally.

I run with autopilot +90% of the time and I never touch the steering wheel unless it's to change course around a crab pot or log.

Steering is slightly stiffer in one direction than the other, but it's not tough or challenging or anything I even think about.
Most of the time I'm using my suicide knob for steering anyway.

 

[HookedUp]

You have me interested. What is 'leaking internally' and how can I test for it? If the helm pump is leaking internally would that also cause the problem when on autopilot?

I know it's not leaking externally, but even before I installed the autopilot the boat was easy to turn to starboard and harder to port. I assumed it was a prop rotation issue. Then after installing the autopilot, it too wanted to go to starboard. Since both steering methods preferred starboard I never thought about a problem with the helm pump.

 

[Submariner]

If you take the boat out, turn hard to port and hold it. It should stop and not move any further as the boat goes in a circle. Do the same the other direction. Same... hard stop.

If you're autopilot is running and it's always turning the boat off course... it could be the hydraulic pump for the autopilot.
or, your magnetic compass calibration is off on your autopilot.

Either way, something doesn't sound right when you say "Then after installing the autopilot, it too wanted to go to starboard."

I set my autopilot on a course and it follows it without any help from me behind the wheel. Mine doesn't favor port or starboard.

 

[BB marine]

The steering torque tab will make a difference. Think of the torque tab as a rudder steering the outboards lower unit. The torque tab will reduce steering torque caused by the prop rotation. This helps equalize and reduce the steering pull to the starboard or the harder steering to the port. When cable steering was used with outboard or stern drive boats adjusting the torque tab was part of the boat rigging procedures. Why are the outboard manufactures no longer using them? Three reasons. (1) most outboards today are mounted to transom pods, offset stepped transoms and set higher on the transom to reduce drag and gain better performance. the cavitation plate the the torque tab is mounted to is to high above the water surface has the boat is on plane so it doesn't work. (2) most boats now utilize hydraulic steering. The hydraulic steering locks the motor in place so the steering torque is has noticeable. (3) It is a lost science as to adjusting the tab. It is easy to do but most marine service technicians didn't take the time to do it right and in some cases mad the steering worse.


For a number of years I worked on high performance (fresh Water) Bass boats. I set them up with offset jack plates to raise the lower unit high out of the water to reduce gear case drag. Theses boats had a lot of steering torque many had dual cable steering to help reduce the hard pull to the right but there still was the need reduce the torque. The torque tabs under the cavitation plate did nothing they were to high out of the water. I have used theses for Years with great success.https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q ... nqrTucAwD3

 

[HookedUp]

Thanks Brian for the excellent information. Just to make sure I understand correctly I'd install this on the starboard side of the engine lower unit to overcome the standard prop rotation on a single engine? Also, do you remember what length screws? I'm guessing just short enough not to go through the lower unit.

I'll be ordering a torque tab today and add it to my 'must do' list. After tendon replacement on my shoulder, and cuff repair I'm not healing anywhere near as fast as I'd like, but once I get full use of my arm back - the list of boat work will get started.

Glad to have your experience chime in and provide a solution. Thanks again.

 

[BB marine]

Thanks Brian for the excellent information. Just to make sure I understand correctly I'd install this on the starboard side of the engine lower unit to overcome the standard prop rotation on a single engine? Also, do you remember what length screws? I'm guessing just short enough not to go through the lower unit.

I'll be ordering a torque tab today and add it to my 'must do' list. After tendon replacement on my shoulder, and cuff repair I'm not healing anywhere near as fast as I'd like, but once I get full use of my arm back - the list of boat work will get started.

Glad to have your experience chime in and provide a solution. Thanks again.

Install on the trailing edge starboard side of the skeg. Mounting can be done many different ways. I did not use all the screw holes. There are five screw holes. I used the top bottom, one in the middle, top one. I used the tab as my template when drilling the holes. I used 8-32 machine screws stainless steel. Drilled and tapped the skeg. I cut the screws to proper length so they were flush to the opposite mounting side of the skeg. I used 5200 adhesive sealant to aid in holding and sealing the tab to the skeg. This will reduce crevice corrosion. I used blue 242 loctite on the 8-32 screw threads. When the tab was installed, sanded, primed and painted the tab with paint to match the Lower unit. It is a process to install it so it stays on properly . If done correctly you never have to mess with it again.

 

[HookedUp]

Just to update. Brian's solution was spot on. I did use J-B Weld instead of 5200 under the tab and had cut the tab a bit to get it to fit.

Effort to turn port or starboard is now the same. Oldest granddaughter noticed the difference right away.

Thanks again

 

[BB marine]

I'm glad it worked out for you. It was my go to with dual cable steering to reduce steering torque. I have installed a few tabs on motors with Hydraulic steering and the customers reviews were it feels like it has power steering??? I'm not sure it is that good but it did help.