Sine Wave
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 29, 2012
- Messages
- 61
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-248 C
- Vessel Name
- Sine Wave
Thanks to Doug Kersten and his post of April 24, 2009 on how to replace a Stern Thruster on an R-25 Boat. Without his advice I would not have succeeded in repairing mine. As my way of saying thanks, I have added a few things which I think will make life a little easier for the next guy to do this. If you plan on doing this, I suggest that you read this post and that of Doug Kersten. It is a bear of a job and if you are not rather small in stature with long arms you may decide to have it done by someone else.
My Stern Thruster started running by itself while towing the boat. I was told that I possibly could fix it by cleaning and drying the connector described in paragraph 6. That did not work and it was determined that I had water or moisture in the Thruster itself. That was the cause of my problem. When I disassembled the unit, I found a small amount of water in it. When I replaced the Control Module ($130.00) it corrected the problem. I confirmed that my problem was the Control Module by connecting the power to the Thruster, connecting the control cable (paragraph 6) and running the Thruster after changing this module before re-installing the motor in the boat. Thrusters do not like water. If you suspect that they may have become wet, check them out before the small problem turns into a major replacement.
THANKS TO TUGNUTS!!!!!!!
Sine Wave
N. Ft. Myers, FL
Wayne Cameron
1. Remove the fish well. Doing so will allow you to remove the complete hatch assembly in the aft compartment. The little extra room it provides is needed to get down to the stern thruster. Remove the hose from the bottom of the well.
2. Remove the exhaust hose for the generator if you have one. Remove this hose from the fitting on the rear wall of the compartment.
3. Remove the hose that is used to drain the holding tank at the fitting on the rear wall.
4. Remove the positive lead going to the thruster from the fuse mounted on the port side wall in the battery compartment after you remove both rear batteries. The negative lead should now be disconnected from the covered terminal block located next to the rear battery. It is the only black wire in a group of yellow wires.
5. Remove the drain hose from the “T” fitting which is Just above the terminal block described in paragraph 4.
6. Next disconnect the four wire connector on the end of the third wire connector exiting the rear of the Thruster. Mine was located in the starboard locker.
7. Pull the positive and negative leads from the thruster out of the hatch opening. You will use these to lift the thruster out.
8. Side Power sells a Metric 6 Ratcheting Allen wrench for about $20.00. This is a must purchase. Use it to remove the two Cap screws that hold the Thruster in. One is accessible through the hatch opening and the other through the battery compartment. A drop light in the area of the Thruster will be helpful seeing these cap screws. Most of this work will be done by feeling only as you will not able to see the screws and work on then at the same time. You may need lots of WD40 and all of your strength to loosen the bolts. Take turns loosening the bolts and pull the Thruster away from the mount periodically until the Thruster comes loose.
9. It is now time to remove the Thruster from the compartment. Turn you steering wheel to full port to get the rudder out of the way. Check that there are no hoses to block the removal. Using the motor leads and an arm down in the hole a little tugging and pulling should result in the removal.
10. This is very important!!!!! When you get the Thruster out, note the exact position of the shaft. Mark the position of the slot in the shaft on the mounting flange. If you re-install the Thruster with the shaft in any other position it will not line up with the prop shaft and you will have to rotate the prop to get it to do so. This will make re-installation very difficult!
11. I replaced the control module in my Thruster which corrected my problem. Disassembly was easy after I learned that the connectors on the wires coming out of the can had to be loosened completely. After removing all of the hardware on the flange of the cover a little prying moved the cover back where I could see everything. Because I have a diesel engine I don’t have to worry about the explosion proof feature of this product so I was confident that my repair was OK. The factory re-tests the total assembly for leakage after they repair these units.
12. Before you attempt to re-install, purchase (2) Metric M8-125x 50mm stainless steel bolts. Cut the heads off, grind and polish the cut end so that a M8 nut can easily turn onto the new stud on both ends. Also purchase (2) “Nylock” type M8 stainless nuts. These parts will replace the Cap screws that formerly held the Thruster in. Next, thread the studs into the mounting plate as far as you can by hand going through the battery compartment for the one on the port side.
13. Next you should make two straps out of reinforced shipping tape going around the Thruster at two positions one near the shaft end and the other on the large diameter behind the flange. Keep the straps long so that the will extend out of the access hole. Make sure the shaft is in the same position as it was when you removed the Thruster. Lift the Thruster down through the hole trying to align it with the mounting flange with the studs. Using the straps place the starboard flange hole on the starboard stud. Don’t put it on all the way or you will not be able to put the port side on, again using the straps you made. Lifting on the power cables can help with this procedure. As soon as you get both studs into the mounting flange place a nut on the studs. You will not be able to start the nuts if the Thruster is too far onto the studs due to the tapered housing. Now you can move the Thruster toward the stern a little at a time and tighten the nuts alternately using a 7/16” open end wrench until the mounting flanges are tight to each other and the nuts are tight. You may have to align the motor shaft with the prop shaft by rotating the prop to get the faces of the flanges to close together.
14. Make sure you mark all wires when you remove them. For example; Bat#1 Pos. ,Bat#3 Neg.
I also marked all hoses to make re-assembly easier.
My Stern Thruster started running by itself while towing the boat. I was told that I possibly could fix it by cleaning and drying the connector described in paragraph 6. That did not work and it was determined that I had water or moisture in the Thruster itself. That was the cause of my problem. When I disassembled the unit, I found a small amount of water in it. When I replaced the Control Module ($130.00) it corrected the problem. I confirmed that my problem was the Control Module by connecting the power to the Thruster, connecting the control cable (paragraph 6) and running the Thruster after changing this module before re-installing the motor in the boat. Thrusters do not like water. If you suspect that they may have become wet, check them out before the small problem turns into a major replacement.
THANKS TO TUGNUTS!!!!!!!
Sine Wave
N. Ft. Myers, FL
Wayne Cameron
1. Remove the fish well. Doing so will allow you to remove the complete hatch assembly in the aft compartment. The little extra room it provides is needed to get down to the stern thruster. Remove the hose from the bottom of the well.
2. Remove the exhaust hose for the generator if you have one. Remove this hose from the fitting on the rear wall of the compartment.
3. Remove the hose that is used to drain the holding tank at the fitting on the rear wall.
4. Remove the positive lead going to the thruster from the fuse mounted on the port side wall in the battery compartment after you remove both rear batteries. The negative lead should now be disconnected from the covered terminal block located next to the rear battery. It is the only black wire in a group of yellow wires.
5. Remove the drain hose from the “T” fitting which is Just above the terminal block described in paragraph 4.
6. Next disconnect the four wire connector on the end of the third wire connector exiting the rear of the Thruster. Mine was located in the starboard locker.
7. Pull the positive and negative leads from the thruster out of the hatch opening. You will use these to lift the thruster out.
8. Side Power sells a Metric 6 Ratcheting Allen wrench for about $20.00. This is a must purchase. Use it to remove the two Cap screws that hold the Thruster in. One is accessible through the hatch opening and the other through the battery compartment. A drop light in the area of the Thruster will be helpful seeing these cap screws. Most of this work will be done by feeling only as you will not able to see the screws and work on then at the same time. You may need lots of WD40 and all of your strength to loosen the bolts. Take turns loosening the bolts and pull the Thruster away from the mount periodically until the Thruster comes loose.
9. It is now time to remove the Thruster from the compartment. Turn you steering wheel to full port to get the rudder out of the way. Check that there are no hoses to block the removal. Using the motor leads and an arm down in the hole a little tugging and pulling should result in the removal.
10. This is very important!!!!! When you get the Thruster out, note the exact position of the shaft. Mark the position of the slot in the shaft on the mounting flange. If you re-install the Thruster with the shaft in any other position it will not line up with the prop shaft and you will have to rotate the prop to get it to do so. This will make re-installation very difficult!
11. I replaced the control module in my Thruster which corrected my problem. Disassembly was easy after I learned that the connectors on the wires coming out of the can had to be loosened completely. After removing all of the hardware on the flange of the cover a little prying moved the cover back where I could see everything. Because I have a diesel engine I don’t have to worry about the explosion proof feature of this product so I was confident that my repair was OK. The factory re-tests the total assembly for leakage after they repair these units.
12. Before you attempt to re-install, purchase (2) Metric M8-125x 50mm stainless steel bolts. Cut the heads off, grind and polish the cut end so that a M8 nut can easily turn onto the new stud on both ends. Also purchase (2) “Nylock” type M8 stainless nuts. These parts will replace the Cap screws that formerly held the Thruster in. Next, thread the studs into the mounting plate as far as you can by hand going through the battery compartment for the one on the port side.
13. Next you should make two straps out of reinforced shipping tape going around the Thruster at two positions one near the shaft end and the other on the large diameter behind the flange. Keep the straps long so that the will extend out of the access hole. Make sure the shaft is in the same position as it was when you removed the Thruster. Lift the Thruster down through the hole trying to align it with the mounting flange with the studs. Using the straps place the starboard flange hole on the starboard stud. Don’t put it on all the way or you will not be able to put the port side on, again using the straps you made. Lifting on the power cables can help with this procedure. As soon as you get both studs into the mounting flange place a nut on the studs. You will not be able to start the nuts if the Thruster is too far onto the studs due to the tapered housing. Now you can move the Thruster toward the stern a little at a time and tighten the nuts alternately using a 7/16” open end wrench until the mounting flanges are tight to each other and the nuts are tight. You may have to align the motor shaft with the prop shaft by rotating the prop to get the faces of the flanges to close together.
14. Make sure you mark all wires when you remove them. For example; Bat#1 Pos. ,Bat#3 Neg.
I also marked all hoses to make re-assembly easier.