Stuffing Box

[Jim and Jackie]

Asked the yard to replace the packing in the stuffing box. They said they couldn't get the locking nut to back off far enough to get at the old packing and replace it. Has anyone else had that problem.

Jim Demerest
2010 R 29 Chessie

 

[Seaquel]

Just had ours done on our 2013 R27 (Volvo D3), no problem. I'll need to adjust the drip rate upon the next occasion to launch, so I now carry an adjustable wide-mouth wrench to do this, and I checked to be sure I can loosen and tighten and there seems to be ample play to adjust. I'll be interested to know if your issue is common to the R29 or perhaps you have something unique causing you this issue.

 

[knotflying]

Not sure what they meant by their statement. The locking nut once loosened is a non-issue. If it is turned just a tad it released pressure and the cap nut (forward of the locking nut) should thread off entirely. The packing material is in the cap nut and has to be pulled out. Separating both nuts can be a bugger. A spray of PB Blaster and letting it set over night. Then try a few good taps with a hammer and punch at the port side of the top of the lock nut near the end of the flat surface of the nut. It should break the tension enough to loosen it and then loosen more with a wrench. I often do it with a ball peen hammer, but your aim has to be perfect so you don't screw up the nut.

 

[Jim and Jackie]

They could back off the locking nut, but it runs into the coupling and there is not enough room to get at the packing. I will be at the boat tomorrow and see why.

 

[knotflying]

It will be interesting what you find because your statement still does not compute. Once the lock nut is backed off the entire forward cap nut, which holds the stuffing, is loosened until it comes off its threads. You then push it back on the shaft to be able to pick out the old stuffing. There should be three pieces removed. So far from the sound of this I would not be comfortable with these guys doing the job.

 

[Jim and Jackie]

The yard is right. There isn't enough room to slide the "forward cap nut" to get at the packing. The nut runs into the coupling. My guess is that the packing has never been changed. Looking at different solutions.

 

[knotflying]

I'll take your word on that since you are there, but you are the only one with this issue. How many inches are there from the back of the cap nut to the transmission coupling? Your alternative is to unbolt the coupling, remove the coupling from the shaft. For that you need to remove the set screws and then unbolt shaft from center bolt in flange. Pull shaft back by pulling on prop. You may be able to pull it back enough so as not to have to remove the prop. Then slide the cap nut holding the stuffing off the shaft. Pick out the old stuffing. I would hope there is enough room to place the cap back on the shaft and insert the new stuffing while on the shaft. Then reassemble.

 

[dclagett]

If this is unique to your boat, the packing box hose may be too long. I would contact the factory and discuss this with them to find out the hose correct length. If the hose is longer than factory specs you can dissemble as noted by knotflying and then remove the stuffing box from the hose, cut the hose to proper length, and then reassemble.

 

[BB marine]

I have not replaced the packing yet but have measured the clearance between the coupling and end of packing gland. It is tight but doable. A flexible T handle packing puller is needed to remove the packing and a L-shaped tool is needed to install the packing in the gland. ( I have a wide blade screwdriver that I bent at a 90 degree angle. I used this in tight packing gland installations in the past). dclagett is right on about the hose length. If it is longer then needed that can be the difference in having enough clearance. If your boat is out of the water Pull the prop, uncouple the coupling, Pull the coolant line off the packing gland, mix up some soapy water solution squirt in the fitting to lubricate the shaft cutlass bearing and the shaft will pull out easily. Remove hose and gland has an assembly, measure and adjust hose length if necessary, repack gland on the bench, Reinstall in reverse order. There are some installations that this is the method that is needed because of tight clearances.

 

[Jim and Jackie]

All good suggestions. The boat is back in the water. I am working with the yard on different solutions. Will check with the factory on the correct hose length. This is a 2010 boat and some things are different. I only have a single 30 amp connection and had a discussion with a dealer the told me that I had 2 30amp connections. His experience was with newer models. The strainers for the A/C and generator were designed (my guess) for fresh water systems and had to be replaced. My engine hatch is electric not hydraulic. Overall the boat is great, just a change from my past boats which were all sailboats.

Jim Demerest
2010 R 29 Chessie

 

[Brian B]

I purchased one of the flexible packing pullers when I did my packing, it broke the first time I used it.( I should have listened to the reviews on it) I ended up with a set of small picks and got it out. I installed the packing with a piece of pvc plastic pipe cut in half to fit over the shaft. With a large pair of channel locks against the housing and the pvc I pressed the packing into the housing. The entire process is explained very clearly here:
https://marinehowto.com/re-packing-a-tr ... ffing-box/

 

[BB marine]

I purchased one of the flexible packing pullers when I did my packing, it broke the first time I used it.

There are some poorly made pullers. I serviced many different style raw water and condensate pumps in refineries with close tolerance between gland and pump housing the only way to remove the packing was with flexible packing pullers or pull the pump. I purchased a puller set 20 years ago from Granger (Palmetto product) I have used and abused the set and now have the small puller in my boat tool box. Picks and the installation tool works awesome if there is enough room. When there is limited room not so much. I asked this question before on TugNuts. I can't seem to find the answer that was given. What packing is used OEM? I would like to have some on board for emergency.

 

[Brian B]

I purchased one of the flexible packing pullers when I did my packing, it broke the first time I used it.

There are some poorly made pullers. I serviced many different style raw water and condensate pumps in refineries with close tolerance between gland and pump housing the only way to remove the packing was with flexible packing pullers or pull the pump. I purchased a puller set 20 years ago from Granger (Palmetto product) I have used and abused the set and now have the small puller in my boat tool box. Picks and the installation tool works awesome if there is enough room. When there is limited room not so much. I asked this question before on TugNuts. I can't seem to find the answer that was given. What packing is used OEM? I would like to have some on board for emergency.

Pretty sure it’s 1/4”x1/4”. I got the replacement piece from RT.