Tarp and Framing for Winter

[swillmerchant]

Sadly, the temperature has dropped sufficiently for us to turn on the heat and winterize the tug. She's on blocks, and the engine, generator, and water tanks/lines are full of antifreeze, thanks to the help of Tom MacDonald on Indian Summer II. All that's left is the winter cover. This is our first winter, so I'm planning out the winter tarp and framing structure for our R25.

I'm thinking a 25' x 30' tarp (or combination of multiple tarps, as necessary) may be sufficient. With the bimini frame folded forward and the mast down, I am thinking I might be able to use a ridgepole from the gaff of the mast back to intersect with the bimini frame, supported by vertical poles under the bimini frame in the cockpit and at least one on the cabin top. Ribs would extend from the ridgepole outward and over the sport rack and handrails.

How are you covering your tug for the winter? Any thoughts our approach for our winter cover?

Good luck with your winterizing, and thanks in advance for any advice!
Doug

 

[SGIDAVE]

Hello Doug,

I don't have direct experience with covering an R25, but I've used a tarp to cover my other pilot house boats.

Basically, I would recommend using a LONGER tarp than the 30' you list. I would say to go with a 30 x 40 if you're going to build any kind of frame. You will want the tarp to come down the sides of the boat, down at the bow and stern to cover the swim step, etc. That takes more tarp than you think.

Having tried to cover my 21EC with a tarp, I would also suggest covering the folded-down mast with a movers blanket or something like that to entirely cover any protrusions which will wear holes in your tarp. Perhaps that won't be nec'y if your frame holds the tarp well-above the folded mast. Put a tennis ball on the end of your VHF and other antennae.

Good luck!

/david

 

[Brian B]

Compare the costs of having it shrink wrapped. Look on your local Craigslist under Boats or Marine Services, you should find someone who will do it for $10.00 per foot.
The problem with the tarps is that the wind gets under them no matter how well you secure it. They sag under snow and ice loads. I used the tarp method on my old boat for a couple of years and it was a real pain in the butt. I had the tug shrink wrapped with a reusable door for easy access into the boat.

 

[Spinner]

Sorry for you all who have to put your boats away for the winter! Just got back from three great days of winter boating in Puget Sound: lovely, calm water and sunshine on day one, storm winds (the real thing, stronger than a gale) and rain on day two, fog and 28 degrees on day three, which turned into more sunshine and calm seas for the run back to my home marina.

I was really glad to be securely tied to a dock on day two, but overall, just a very fine trip !

Sue P
Spinner

 

[Mystical]

We are currently having a winter canvas made for Mr. Quivers. Shrink wrap is just too expensive and if not done correctly, can damage your colored gel coat. The cover we are having made will cover from bow to stern including the swim platform and goes to the waterline. the cost was quite reasonable as well, just 2800.00 for everything. should last 10-15 years with proper care.

 

[Barry Cohen]

Hey Doug:

We had a custom cover made for YOLO. King Marine Canvas in Seattle has all the Ranger Tug templates.

http://www.kingmarinecanvas.com/

The initial cost is higher, but over a short period of time, it pays for itself. And environmentally-friendly. It took us 15 minutes to cover it and another 30 minutes to tie it down. We bought a 1500' roll of shrink wrap banding on-line from Dr Shrink.

http://dr-shrink.com/shrink-wrap/strapp ... -ds-50015/

That should last us until our golden years. In the spring, we bring it to Doyle Sailmakers in Swampscott for a good cleaning and minor repairs if needed.

YOLO is on the hard at the Lynn Yacht Club if you want to take a look at the cover.

 

[swillmerchant]

Thanks everyone. I'm not keen on shrink wrap. Though convenient, it's not environmentally friendly. Yeah, some marinas recycle the wrap, but some don't and they almost always throw away the framing and ties. It's also expensive. If it could negatively affect the gel coat as Mystical says, then it's not for me. My PVC frame could be used for years, though the tarps have to be replaced every few years.

Barry, I'll have to check out the YOLO cover. That sounds ideal, as does the one Mystical is having built. We can't afford it this year, but perhaps in the future.

I'll take pics of the ultimate framing I come up with. My plan is to put it all up over the weekend if I can find the time.

 

[Levitation]

PVC pipe is weak and will bend with a continued load like snow or high winds and it's lack of weight makes it difficult to keep in place until it is all connected together and covered and tied down.
If you want to make a tent over the deck that will last the winter then you are better off with 2X2 and 2X4 wood gables and tarps - not plastic.
It is actually real work because what you are doing - PVC or wood - is constructing a shed 8.5 X25 feet.

 

[knotflying]

I have an R-27. It is located in Rhode Island. During the winter I have used a heavy duty 30 X 40 white tarp. It lasts me 2 years at a cost of about $100.00 You need to put protection at possible tear points like the Nav lights, Mast, and rear clips for the bimini. I fold the bimini forward and then rest a 2X4 from the door overhang to the rear rail and secure it. I have the boat on a trailer. I put the tarp over the boat and strap it down with two foot bungee cords to the trailer. I find that the bungee cords work better because they will give with the wind. I have been doing this method with my C-dory and the Ranger for about 8 years now without problems. I will say being at the shore probably helps because the snow is not as much when inland. This year I am leaving the boat in Georgia for the fall and then on to Florida for the winter, so no winterizing and no tarp worries.
Maybe you should do the same and forget about the tarp! 🙂

 

[Zundels]

We have used a PVC pipe frame for three years in Alaska over our R25, with heavy snow loads and feet of rain and ice. The key is create a PVC single roof line from bow to stern high enough that most snow and leaves slide off (read below about the exceptions). Used a PVC T and cut the straight edge outside edge off so it slides and snaps over the stainless rail and locks into place, we secured it with a zip tie on each side. (be sure to keep all zip sharp edges under tarp so not to tear it) With the mast down we also zip tied the PVC frame to the mast loop. Also strengthened the PVC with arms to the port and starboard stainless rails, all with the cut T's and zip tied to secure. We drilled a small hole in the main PVC pipes and zip tied the sections together so we can use it year after year. The key for heavy snow loads, also created the frame high enough so there is steep slope and the snow slips off. In the heaviest of snow years you could use a ladder and long handled broom to swipe off the snow if it builds up between supports and sags. If the tarp is pulled tight most snow and leaves slide off. Only the heaviest snow loads will stick and build up in gaps to created sagging. Time could have been spent designing cross members to support the large sections where snow would collect.
Another key we learned is to use old rugs or smooth carpet to lay over and cover all sharp edges under the tarp
Our tarp was very secure all winter with ratcheting straps connecting the grommets under hull.
We also got a tarp longer than the boat on the trailer (about 45 feet) so we could wrap it around the bow and secure it with bungie straps and wrap around the stern so we could still get access to the cabin to check on winter conditions and just enjoy being aboard in the cold weather.
Once our PVC was engineered and constructed it only takes a short time to assemble and slide the tarp over the top.

 

[SGIDAVE]

We have used a PVC pipe frame for three years in Alaska over our R25, with heavy snow loads and feet of rain and ice. The key is create a PVC single roof line from bow to stern high enough that most snow and leaves slide off (read below about the exceptions). Used a PVC T and cut the straight edge outside edge off so it slides and snaps over the stainless rail and locks into place, we secured it with a zip tie on each side. (be sure to keep all zip sharp edges under tarp so not to tear it) With the mast down we also zip tied the PVC frame to the mast loop. Also strengthened the PVC with arms to the port and starboard stainless rails, all with the cut T's and zip tied to secure. We drilled a small hole in the main PVC pipes and zip tied the sections together so we can use it year after year. The key for heavy snow loads, also created the frame high enough so there is steep slope and the snow slips off. In the heaviest of snow years you could use a ladder and long handled broom to swipe off the snow if it builds up between supports and sags. If the tarp is pulled tight most snow and leaves slide off. Only the heaviest snow loads will stick and build up in gaps to created sagging. Time could have been spent designing cross members to support the large sections where snow would collect.
Another key we learned is to use old rugs or smooth carpet to lay over and cover all sharp edges under the tarp
Our tarp was very secure all winter with ratcheting straps connecting the grommets under hull.
We also got a tarp longer than the boat on the trailer (about 45 feet) so we could wrap it around the bow and secure it with bungie straps and wrap around the stern so we could still get access to the cabin to check on winter conditions and just enjoy being aboard in the cold weather.
Once our PVC was engineered and constructed it only takes a short time to assemble and slide the tarp over the top.

That sounds interesting. Photos would be VERY helpful if you have any.

Thanks,

/david

 

[HRowland]

I have not covered my boat for the past two winters. I remove the bimini and store it. I do a lot of work on the boat during the nice weekends and it is convenient to have full access. At the marina I see most of the typical Sea Ray type of boat or center consoles will be shrink wrapped. For trawlers and sail boats it is mixed, less than half shrink wrapped or covered. I keep the outside waxed and it seems to be holding up well. If we get a significant snow I will clear out the cockpit but not worry about anything else.

Howard

 

[swillmerchant]

Here are a few pics of the PVC frame I put onto our tug today. I'll post a few more pics once I've put on the tarp tomorrow, as we ran out of time today. Once the tarp is on, it'll be nice, tight, and cozy until spring. PM me if you'd like higher quality pics, measurements, parts lists or costs. Many thanks to those that posted replies, and to John DeCaro for his guidance over the phone.