Tools

[Paul and Tanya]

Over the past year, I have carried a nice tool kit on board thinking I could resolve minor issues I may experience during cruising. This last month, I have, for the first time I have owned the boat started performing the annual maintenance to include changing filters (oil and fuel), impeller, fluids, zincs, etc. Anyway, one thing I noticed was that I was not carrying the necessary tools on board this last year to perform some of these tasks while away from home. Though I thought I was prepared, in many cases, I wasn't.

Example is the impeller. This requires two tools I didn't even have in my fairly well equipped shop, much less on the boat. I had to go out and purchase the 22mm socket (which doesn't come in most standard tool kits) and the 6mm hex male drive.

I have since purchased these items along with a strap wrench for the filters and a breaker bar and included them in my on-board tool kit. Does anyone have any other suggestions of special or uncommon tools necessary to perform maintenance tasks that we should have on board?

Your input is appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[Automaticman865]

Also a rubber mallet for when you can't get breaker bar on a bolt.
Stuart

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

In addition, if you don't already have, a pair of needle nose pliers that are curved at the end. The curved part helps leverage impellers out of there housings, especially in some of the tight quarters we have to work on.

Jim

 

[swillmerchant]

The small (4-5" handle) open-faced ratchet tool that accepts hex-head drivers is essential. I'm not sure where it comes from or what it's purpose is, but I use it all the time. It was in a black plastic bag when we purchased our tug. If you don't have one, find one.

 

[HRowland]

I bought a stubby box wrench so I could get the engine upper anode out on the Yanmar 4BY2-180. It is a 24mm head on the anode, but I got a 15/16" stubby box wrench which also fits well. At the time my local Sears did not have metric stubby wrenches in stock.

I am able to get a socket on the lower engine anode.

Howard

 

[walldog]

The small (4-5" handle) open-faced ratchet tool that accepts hex-head drivers is essential. I'm not sure where it comes from or what it's purpose is, but I use it all the time. It was in a black plastic bag when we purchased our tug. If you don't have one, find one.

That tool is for removing the stern thruster, I believe that is what you have described.

 

[baz]

A few things you might consider...

Flippers, goggle and snorkel for underwater snafus such as untangling a crab pot line from the prop... or worse still some crud stuck/blocking the raw water thru hull grate. In shallow waters you may also need these to release your anchor !!

Several flashlights & spare batteries.

A gallon of distilled water for the batteries.

Battery jumper cables.

Wire clothe hanger... a very useful tool for poking through narrow passage ways and for hooking things lost in the bilge.

 

[Hydraulicjump]

And if you are a klutz like me, a telescoping magnetic pick-up tool and telescoping mirror.

Lately my most used tool is a multi meter

 

[Crewdog]

add in:
battery powered drill, bits, sockets, accessories and drivers;
square head drivers
ResQ tape
various gauge sizes of wire
zip ties, various sizes
diagonal cutters
.032 safety wire

and here's a link to onboard tool kit discussion that was very helpful:
http://www.tugnuts.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3038&start=0&hilit=tool+kit

 

[knotflying]

Multi meter and another boat to carry your tools :lol:

 

[Dog Islander]

I bought a stubby box wrench so I could get the engine upper anode out on the Yanmar 4BY2-180. It is a 24mm head on the anode, but I got a 15/16" stubby box wrench which also fits well. At the time my local Sears did not have metric stubby wrenches in stock.

The last set of anodes I received from Ranger had a smaller head on them than the 24mm. My 24mm box wrench did not work on them. I measured the head on the new one and promptly forgot what it was, but it was significant enough to not allow the wrench to be used (maybe a 1/16th of an inch. As much as I don't like using an adjustable wrench, an 8" adjustable worked fine to access both anodes on the 4BY2-180 Yanmar.

 

[knotflying]

Interesting, my anode head is 22mm

 

[baz]

Dog Islander: You can buy just the anode/zinc material from BoatZincs.com (Tel: 978.641.9978). Thus, your tool will always fit the bolt head. I picked up 4 of them for $3.90 ea. S&H was $10.96 ... ouchee... 😱 This was for our 4BY2-150 Yanmar engine.

Name Code Qty Each Options
----------------------------------------------------------------------
120650-13420 Yanmar 120650-13420-ZINC 4 3.90
Engine Zinc Anode (Zinc
Only)
Subtotal 15.60
Shipping 10.76
Tax 0.00
Total 26.36

 

[HRowland]

For the engine anodes I am still using the original brass plugs that came with the engine in 2011. I use the zinc refills from BoatZincs.com. These brass plugs have a 24mm or 15/16" head. The first summer (2011) I did buy a couple of anodes from Ranger Tugs, these were also 24mm head but were a different design, they had a pressed in zinc instead of threaded so they could not be refilled. The hole in the brass was the same diameter as the zinc.

Searching the posts on TugNuts I see references to both 15/16"/24mm and 7/8"/22mm.

BoatZincs specifies 22mm on their complete replacement anode. The replacement anodes I bought from Ranger Tugs in 2011 were in Yanmar bags. I believe Ranger now sources from BoatZincs.

Howard