Towing a small boat with 2008 R25 Classic

[Lowen Ranger]

Hello Tuggers! I have an '08 R25 C with 1300 hours on a 110 hp. Yammer 4JH4-HTE. We are considering the purchase of a small (14') fiberglass boat and motor to tow behind our Tug. I would appreciate any wisdom you might have on the maximum weight we could tow, and any info on issues you've had towing a vessel larger than an 8' inflatable dingy.

Thanks!

 

[NorthernFocus]

In calm conditions weight isn't really much of an issue. Towing in a choppy head sea is another story. Hull design can also make a big difference. One reason that inflatables are so popular is that they ride high and therefore tow well.

For a heavier tow with the R25 C the cleats are poorly placed. You'll probably want to install a towing cleat or use a bridle.

 

[Lowen Ranger]

In calm conditions weight isn't really much of an issue. Towing in a choppy head sea is another story. Hull design can also make a big difference. One reason that inflatables are so popular is that they ride high and therefore tow well.

For a heavier tow with the R25 C the cleats are poorly placed. You'll probably want to install a towing cleat or use a bridle.

 

[Lowen Ranger]

Thank you! I agree on cleat placement so I planned to rig up a bridle and strategically place pieces of yoga mat to protect the hull. I just don’t know if the engine will like it. The setup seems to have lots of torque, and we cruise at 2600 rpm’s or less. Cheers’

 

[scross]

My understanding is that many insurance companies do not cover anything being towed. You might want to check.

 

[Rode Trip]

Thank you! I agree on cleat placement so I planned to rig up a bridle and strategically place pieces of yoga mat to protect the hull. I just don’t know if the engine will like it. The setup seems to have lots of torque, and we cruise at 2600 rpm’s or less. Cheers’

The engine won't have any trouble at all, although you may have to run 100 rpm higher for the same speed. Many, many years ago we towed a fiberglass sailing dinghy across the Gulfstream and all around the Bahamas with our 30' sailboat that had an old 2 cylinder, raw water cooled (no zincs!) Volvo 25 hp diesel. I had a good friend, and guide book writer in the '90's who towed a 17' Key Largo center console with 150 hp outboard from Florida down the island chain and into the Caribbean with his 40' sailboat with a 50 HP engine.
The keys are to keep it well behind you, always cautious not to foul the line on your prop so pull it in tight before you stop, and when towing offshore set the dinghy so it rides up a swell at the same time the tow boat is rising up a swell. Always use a heavy bridle to well secured cleats on the tow vessel and the bow eye of the tender. Keep the tow point on the tender as low as possible to keep the bow up, and always have the outboard in the down position if it's going to be on the tender.

 

[Lowen Ranger]

The engine won't have any trouble at all, although you may have to run 100 rpm higher for the same speed. Many, many years ago we towed a fiberglass sailing dinghy across the Gulfstream and all around the Bahamas with our 30' sailboat that had an old 2 cylinder, raw water cooled (no zincs!) Volvo 25 hp diesel. I had a good friend, and guide book writer in the '90's who towed a 17' Key Largo center console with 150 hp outboard from Florida down the island chain and into the Caribbean with his 40' sailboat with a 50 HP engine.
The keys are to keep it well behind you, always cautious not to foul the line on your prop so pull it in tight before you stop, and when towing offshore set the dinghy so it rides up a swell at the same time the tow boat is rising up a swell. Always use a heavy bridle to well secured cleats on the tow vessel and the bow eye of the tender. Keep the tow point on the tender as low as possible to keep the bow up, and always have the outboard in the down position if it's going to be on the tender.

Thank you for this helpful and detailed reply! Yes, I agree on keeping the outboard leg in the water to minimize lateral travel. Cheers!

 

[Rode Trip]

Thank you for this helpful and detailed reply! Yes, I agree on keeping the outboard leg in the water to minimize lateral travel. Cheers!

It's really more about preventing damage to the transom, a raised outboard puts a big lever arm on the transom and as it bounces it can cause damage. The lowered outboard is only pulling straight down on the transom.
Make sure you've got a strong bow eye, people make the mistake all the time of towing soft bottom inflatables with the glued on bridle points. They almost always rip off once you tow in any kind of sea. I always preferred to run the tow line through the bow for directional stability but attach to the transom for strength (if you don't have a strong enough bow eye like on a RIB). Different tenders require different attachment points, but remember the shock load when the tender bow hits a wave and the big boat is still moving forward can be substantial. Size your tow line one size larger than you probably think you need.